mountainsandsound

Would think that is a good option. I plan on trying that route this winter. I have seen trip reports of winter climbs on that route and was amazed at how much snow free terrain on the ridge there can be. Ruth might be good and it is fairly accessible. Not the most exciting but good views of Shuksan. Glacier routes are probably at their worst this time of year, but I have never noticed much in the way of crevasses with that one. If I had my way I'd probably just go cragging and get back into the alpine in another month or so. As of last week, full-on avalanche awareness and assessment is probably crucial for being safe in the mountains now.

Nice. What are those Dr. Suess truffela tree looking things called? I've never looked them up. Cool that you got to do that with your wife. I have one of those relationships where she likes hiking and backpacking, climbing not so much. Helps me reconnect with backpacking and reminds me I don't have to get a high point every time I go in the mountains.

Plastics are fine for snow, ice, glacier, but they get more annoying with rock. They aren't just for neophytes who are climbing in rented boots for the 1st time either. Some guides and other experienced folks on Rainier wear them year round. In fact if you climb Rainier in the winter, I think many folks would advise against anything other than plastic. I would say getting it down to 2 pairs of boots is more realistic if you climb in the winter.

Anyone have one they don't need anymore? I'm interested in a 50cm SMC Himalayan ice hammer. PM me if you want to sell it.

Anticipating a long next summer devoted to honing alpine skills, I picked up a 57cm BD Venom hammer for a good deal. I would like to get into moderate alpine ice routes like Baker N. Ridge, Kautz Glacier, Adams Glacier, etc... I made up my mind that I don't really want a 2 technical ice tool setup, rather I'm going for the old school 1 shorter mountaineering axe, second tool setup. The Venom is going to be my second tool. Was this dumb? 57cm is about as long as hammers come, should I have gone 50cm or shorter on the second tool? Is a tool this long going to wear me out on 50-70 degree glacier ice slopes? Ideally I would have liked to test some tools out first, but I don't have too many friends who do much beyond standard routes.

I climbed this route in early August. That ridge to the right (NorthEast?) was very enjoyable and doable with just a few pieces of pro and some simul climbing and terrain belays. If you have the rock climbing experience it is the way to go. Get it next year.

I can't help it, I'm a child of the 90's who followed a dumb fashion and did all athletics in basketball shorts. At this point I might blind someone if I showed too much pasty white quad. Anyone ever heard of people running the full Copper Ridge loop from Hannegan Pass? Not a climbing route but seems like it would be an ass-kicker.

Dorky. But cool too. I guess I secretly like it. Good job. How much did short shorts shorten the time as compared with shorts that go to the knees?

Oh man. I would love to go, but I'm actually getting married on Monday. I don't think my girlfriend er wife I mean would let me get out of this one. Update this forum though if you do it again.

I am a new trad leader myself. I went with a friend to Tieton in May and did some leading. There are quite a few climbs in the 5.3-5.7 range, but these are somewhat deceiving. The easier climbs at Royal Columns are bigger cracks that require bigger gear and are often flaring. Easy to climb, but in my opinion not the easiest for a newbie to protect. Thinking about it, I was far more comfortable climbing 5.6/5.7 granite cracks at squamish than 5.3/5.4 basalt columns in eastern WA. The cracks I climbed at squamish were very easy to protect. They practically ate nuts and hexes, I hardly had to reach for any cams.

Fuck. 19? That sucks. So sad to hear about this. I'm still thinking about Nick Hall too. It seems like it's been a tough season in the Cascades so far. Stay safe.

Almost went here on Sunday but decided to save it for a time when views would be assured. Is it pretty reasonable as a day trip with a TH bivy?

I'm sorry, but this place sucks. I had high hopes coming down the highway after some backpacking with friends last summer. Even tried it a second time. My main gripe is serving their sandwiches on white wonder bread shit. This might be OK for a PBJ served to a 5 year old, but for BBQ I'm calling foul. Don't settle for second rate food cause you've been on the mountain house meal plan for a few days. Pick up some beer and a snack at the Shell to hold you over till you get to some good Mexican food in Burlington.

Yes, I see it too. I bet many of the CC addicts are also NOAA addicts as well.

And there lies the problem. Why would you tromp up those boring slogs sans boards?? Working on it. Eyeballing the Silvretta 500s. If I came home with more gear a certain someone in my life would be further irritated. Choosing my battles carefully.

Hah. Last year summer sucked for the most part but early fall was bomber. Was kind of nice to have some of the alpine routes still in shape well into summer though last year.

No, lived here almost my entire life. I know we don't really get summer until July, anything before is a bonus. Maybe my memory fails me, but I feel like the last few Junes have been especially crappy.

What is the deal? Are you really going to do the whole June-uary thing again this year? You just started and so far I don't like what I've seen. Your forecast doesn't look so hot either. Are you on strike? Jealous of May? WTF?! Been here most of my life. I'm used to shit weather, that is what makes it the evergreen state, but you really should give us just a little taste of summer. I'd like to climb a couple volcanoes this month, but you keep dumping snow above 5,000 ft. and I don't ski. I'd like to do some cragging, but when you moisten the rock it makes it difficult. We got so screwed over with La Nina last year, please shape up and deliver.

There was a little bit of red mixed in with the blue. So at least it was patriotic flagging, the most appropriate for a trail to 4th of July pass. Had it been red and white, I would have started to think the Canadians are trying to annex NCNP like they are Bellingham.

I too flagged for work. The location of salmon redds along streams during spawner surveys. I might go to hell for that.

I assumed they were climbing Ruby Mountain over the winter. I hadn't thought about the snowman part, I thought they were gentle scavengers. Maybe they fell into a tree well and the snowman finished them off. I admit I am a total Ranger Dick about flagging. I tear it down wherever I see it. There are so many other options that don't involve obnoxious litter in a wilderness area. Climbers are a resourceful lot, there are other ways if you use your brain. I have yet to hear a good excuse for plastic survey tape. OK, done venting for now.

To whomever liberally flagged the 4th of July Pass trail in NCNP with blue survey tape: You forgot to grab it on your way back. I took it down for you today. PS: Try thinking of other things to mark the way that are either part of the landscape or quickly biodegradable.

Trip: Silver Star - Burgundy Creek Date: 5/19/2012 Trip Report: Haven't seen any reports for the Burgundy Creek route yet, so I thought I'd update those who are interested. Took off on Friday afternoon with my dad and brother, didn't get to the pullout till late afternoon. Headed straight down the boulder field into Early Winters creek. Boulders and fallen logs under the snow creating hollow spots kept us on our toes for this section. Found a footlog to cross just downstream of Burgundy Creek confluence with a lot of compacted snow on top. Not ideal but the best option. Ascended through more snow out of the Early Winters creek valley to the climbers trail, which was bare for about 600 ft. or so of elevation. After that, snow made the ascent up the ridge easy enough through the forest, with just a little post-holing here and there. Made camp at the plateau area on top of the ridge at 6400 ft. Next morning headed up the gully to Burgundy col on snow the whole way, old packed in avy debris made for some convenient steps. The col had two bivy spots with wind breaks built, both were partially covered by snow. Descent down the other side of the col was initially pretty steep, 50 or 55 degrees for a short length. Traversed south under the wine spires, noticed some loose snow avalanche debris and a giant pinwheel, but everything looked like it went during the warm up the previous weekend. Snow conditions were pretty good for boot packing, not so much for skiing. Roped up for the glacier out of habit and a just-in-case attitude, although any crevasses are still probably under lots of snow and lots of people are skiing it. Climbed the glacier on good snow to the saddle between the summit and the wine spires. From here to the summit it is still mostly hard snow and some icy spots. Kept the crampons on, crossed a short section of gravelly scree, then climbed up steep hard snow to the summit blocks. This last part below the summit was the most thrilling, or "spicy" as one of the skiers we saw that day put it. Steep snow with some rocks cemented in and a bad run out. Snow had just enough give for kicking shallow steps. Stayed roped up and made use of some quick terrain belays around rock horns. Pulled off the crampons for the final few feet up the summit rock, spectacular exposure on solid rock here. Snow softened a bit on the descent once below the glacier, but not too slow going. Overall a great climb with some good thrills near the summit right now. Great to share this one with my family and happy that my dad can still do this stuff with my brother and I. Gear Notes: camping gear, glacier gear, chicken and rice Mountainhouse, Aleve for the knees, brew stuffed into the snowbank at the highway Approach Notes: don't bring snowshoes I guess most of the pictures are too big for CC. Here is one descending from the col. Lots of snow moving around last weekend.

I experienced the opposite. I'm 6'2", bought a 64 cm axe for my first, and regretted it a month later. Went for a 73 cm, no regrets. Actually, I do regret it when I'm diving through slide alder on approaches, but that's about it. For the gentle to moderate snow and glacier slopes (40 degrees or less) that I have done so far, I like it so much better than the shorter axe I had. I am not an alpinist with a capital "A" though. Axe length is a topic that has been beat so much. I can see the merits of each argument. The best advice is probably to figure it out for yourself. Figure out the terrain you'll be on, then see what length feels most secure and comfortable for you with the ice axe positions (probably cane) you'll be using the most. And make sure you can self arrest with it. Get the axe from somewhere you can return it if you need to.

Kinda what I was thinking. A good weekend to let the snow stabilize, and a good weekend to practice crevasse rescue at the Mt. Baker ski area.