cam yarder

Thanks for the info. I’m thinking the Buckner-Booker col is the best option.

Hey all, Does anyone know what it's like getting from the summit of Buckner to Park Creek Pass? Looking for a direct alternative instead of dropping into the Stehekin Valley and joining the Park Creek Trail. Descending SE from the summit looks tricky on Google Earth, but sometimes the satellite view is deceiving. Would the east-trending ridge from the summit of Buckner to Park Creek Pass be a viable option? Thanks

it was a while ago and my memory is kinda hazy...but i remember going left-ish up the slabs. steep for sure but mostly just yarding on cedar branches. felt pretty secure. might be an option for ya in the future.

i'll take it if you're willing to ship!

I have a 55cm BD Raven Pro in good condition that I'll sell you.

did you take the route to the summit of dragontail?

just walk the road. you're acting like they've put no trespassing signs on the gate.

the time window to climb the north ridge snow-free in rock shoes and also descend the sherpa glacier is small. the bergschrund at the base of the couloir opens as the season progresses and can be difficult to pass. i have crossed it with zero shenanigans as late as the summer solstice, but that was after a particularly wet and cold spring (2011). the stuart range got a lot of snow this season but it's also been quite warm. another consideration is the heavy gear you might bring along if you were to descend the sherpa. in soft snow conditions with an ice axe, you could down climb the sherpa glacier couloir without much problem in running shoes. in hard snow conditions, i would want an ice axe, crampons and sturdy mountain boots. but carrying all that extra gear up the north ridge is a pain in the butt, which is why i would just go down the cascadian.

We make a big stink about how we climb UP a route: onsight, didn't yard on gear, didn't bang in pins, day packs up a grade VI in 45 seconds c2c, blah blah blah..but we almost never talk about the cleanliness of our descent. Leaving behind tat, nuts, cams, and pins for rappel anchors seems completely okay, but isn't the "ethical" self-congratulatory jerk sesh awfully hypocritical if you leave a bunch of shit behind on your way down? shouldn't the descent be just as carefully scrutinized as the ascent? how many climbers take the time to tidy up rappel stations, leaving only a single piece of cord or well-jammed nut? yeah, I understand there's often no choice, that you just have to leave behind junk if you wanna go up in the first place. But sometimes there are alternate descents that, although inconvenient (and therefore won't allow you to spray to all your buds about how fast you did a route) allow the climber to descend without leaving a trace.

I just looked at the MP post; did you actually look at the links provided? The NPS website hasn't been updated in 9 months and one of the webcams is out of service. Bump.

What websites do folks like to use for forecasting in the Alaska Range, specifically the Ruth?

Petzl Vasak- $125 Light cosmetic wear. Practically new. Grivel G22- $180 Light cosmetic wear. Practically new. Osprey Kode 32- $110 Like new. Ski touring pack. Scarpa Maestrale, size 29- $150 Well-used but functional. Has some broken buckles. Dynafit TLT Vertical ST bindings- $290 White color. In great condition. Probably have only done 20 ski tours with them. For photos, check out my mountainproject post here: mp sale

Selling my pair of Petzl Quarks. Probably a 6.8/10 conditions-wise. Still plenty of use left. Includes the grip rests, adze and hammer. PM or reply here if interested. Will entertain reasonable offers. Buyer pays shipping from Bozeman, MT.

i was in the canyon on friday and was shocked by the amount of climbable ice. there was a storm cycle a couple weeks back that came in warm and ended with an arctic cold front, and many climbs are in fat right now. ice conditions shouldn't suffer from the warmer temps in bozeman. the parking lot to access climbs is 2,000' feet above town. Thanksgiving and Friday look to be the warmest, but the cold is forecasted to return this weekend. If it were me, I'd definitely make the drive. at this time i'm more concerned about avalanche conditions. very dangerous today and will probably remain so for a few days or longer. still, there are plenty of routes to do in hyalite that are safe. as for top-ropeable climbs, the g1 area is always a good bet. outside of g1, there are not many easily toproped climbs.

when i climbed tft we were considering climbing the southeast face of torment but i'm really glad we didn't. i THINK the start to the southeast face is just above the bergschrund climber's right of the south ridge moat-crossing start. most summers, the 'schrund is nasty and maybe even impassable. maybe that wasn't always the case, especially in beckey's time. i don't know why you'd want to climb the southeast face anyway. the rock is awful, crack-less, ledgy and grassy. the south ridge isn't exactly a gem either, but i don't recall anything harder than 5.6, and even then it's only a move or two on the whole route.