Ian in Seattle

Great TR! We're looking to do this in the next few weeks, been on my bucket list for awhile. Does anyone know how the glacier holds up this late in the summer? Is there more serious bergschrund and/or crevasses to deal with on the traverse? thanks

Nice climb Rob and Gavin! Didn't realize on Ragged Edge last weekend that was the Howling Ridge route you did. Will have to check it out.

Can you tell if that's more from the north face of Bryant Peak, or the east face of Chair?

Is that from the north side of Bryant, or more the east side of Chair?

Great TR, we followed this for an attempt on Bryant last weekend. Here's my newer TR: Bryant Peak TR 12/30/12

Very nice TR, especially solo, I've had this on my list for awhile. Is the West Ridge just class 4? (The Summit Post description talks about plenty o' Class 5 multi-pitch pro.) thanks

Looking for a partner for a quick alpine scramble this weekend (Sat 7/14 or Sun 7/15), preferably a day trip or maybe 1-nighter. No trad/sport for me (yet), up to class 3 or maybe 4. I'm in Seattle and have a vehicle, gear. I have a long list of peaks I'd like to climb, and am willing to entertain others, conditions permitting. Good candidates: Del Campo, Colchuck/Dragontail, Daniels, Kaleetan, David, Fernow or Maude, Baring, Ellinor, Sloan, White Chuck, Sperry, etc. These are all new to me, so would need route beta or a leader. Please send PM.

Nice TR. Back on Feb 5 we did this as a mixed snowshoe and hike, my TR posted at NW hikers (link below). We saw a lot of skiiers on that day, clearly much faster and more fun than our slog. http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7997306

Trip: TwoFer Thursday: Piegan and Pollock Mountains - Normal (Piegan) and Great Cleft (Pollock) Date: 8/11/2011 Trip Report: Planned this quick solo trip to Piegan and Pollock Mountains, some easy Class 2 and 3 scrambles from Logan Pass in Glacier National Park, while on vacation on Flathead Lake in western Montana. Driving to the pass takes away a lot of the approach vertical, so this hike is entirely spent above the treeline surrounded by some of the most scenic, alpine and rugged mountains. Left very early but due to road construction on the Going-to-the-Sun highway, had to park at Logan Pass and walk down to Lunch Creek, didn't hit the trailhead until 8am. Ascended up the basin and to the right of the upper waterfall. The snow fields in the basin were still very, very firm this early in the morning. Had to wear crampons on the upper snowfield which led into what I dubbed the "Great Defile," a snow-filled couloir that led straight to the saddle between Pollock and Piegan. From the saddle I followed the climber's path up the right (south) shoulder of Piegan, enjoying some fun Class 2 and 3 scrambles on cliffs. Made the summit around 10am. Descended and headed across the saddle to Pollock with plenty of online route details in hand. Followed an easy and obvious climber's path along the south side of Pollock, past the "false" spire and up behind the correct spire which marks the "Great Cleft," a really fun and aesthetic Class 3 scramble. The cleft is not visible from below, but once you find it hard against the spire, it makes for a tight squeeze, steep in spots (down climbing required) with a little exposure, but not requiring any ropes. The great cleft ends dramatically on top of the cliffs, and you climb up some smaller bands and then an easy scree slope to the top of Pollock (summit around 10:45am) for some great views toward Mt. Gould and Bishop's Cap to the northwest, Siyeh to the northeast, and to the south toward Logan Pass, the Mt. Reynolds horn and some big glaciated peaks beyond. Cruised back down to the road and made Logan Pass by 12:45pm. Only passed one group of people the entire day, a four-some heading up to Pollock. Also saw two black bears on the road, marmots, big horn sheep. Sunrise on the photogenic Heaven's Peak, from The Loop Walking down from Logan Pass, looking at the Lunch Creek basin from Going-to-the-Sun with Pollock Mountain looming The Pollock Mountain summit from the basin. The snow angle in the right side foreground is the "Great Defile" which leads straight to the saddle, but it required crampons this early in the morning. Looking up the moated, hard late season snow in "Great Defile" on crampons. View of Piegan Mountain from the saddle. View from the summit of Piegan back west toward the saddle, Pollock Mountain, with Bishop's Gap and the massive east face of Mount Gould on the Garden Wall View from the Piegan summit looking south toward Logan Pass with the Reynolds matterhorn in the foreground, Mt. Jackson (?) to the left Descending the Class 2/3 cliffs of Piegan and looking at Pollock across the saddle Approaching the "Great Cleft" route up the south face of Pollock, it's there... The cleft is the one nearest the tower, although you can work your way up the rocks to the left then traverse over to the cleft. View up the "Great Cleft," a great Class 3 scramble View of Mt. Siyeh from the summit of Pollock While descending back toward the "Great Cleft," this is a view of Piegan to the east with some of Pollock's spires in the foreground View up Lunch Creek toward Pollock Mountain, with a big horn sheep posing nicely for a tourist like me Gear Notes: Helmet, ice axe, crampons

Trip: Gothic Peak (Gothic Basin) - Normal (SE ridge) Date: 7/10/2011 Trip Report: After the great climb of The Brothers last weekend with friends, decided to go solo to the Gothic Basin on Sunday. (Great trip report last week on NW climbers shows current conditions...snow snow and more snow.) Time was of the essence, had to be home in Seattle that afternoon. Hit the trailhead at Barlow Pass by 6am, rode my bike up the old road to the Weden Creek trail to save time. The crossing of the "three waterfalls" creeks around 3,500 ft. was no issue, the first two were heavy compacted snow with no obvious bridging issues, and the last you can cross on rocks just below the trail. After traversing over to the next drainage, the trail completely disappears along its traverse south under snow, and no GPS. So I headed west / uphill toward the south Del Campo ridge dividing Foggy Lake and the basin from Weden creek on very consolidated firm snow, with only a few holes/moats and cliffs to avoid. Ice axe needed throughout. Crossed over the ridge into the gothic basin at a small frozen melt pond (see photos), Foggy Lake well frozen and the entire gothic basin is snow. (Bring skiis.) Skirted the lake and ascended the southeast ridge of Gothic Peak, climbed the exposed rock at the summit block (class 3 ?), lunch on top around 10am with views every where...Baker, Glacier, Rainier, Monte Cristo Group, etc. Glissades back down where possible, especially from the gothic peak approach ridge back to the lake with endless runout. Back at the TH before 1pm. Saw no people or even tracks, except for a few late day hikers on the lower trail in tennis shoes. Back home for BBQ and beers with friends and neighbors. View of the snow on the "first waterfall" crossing View of the route up and over the Del Campo south ridge to Gothic Basin. I climbed the steep snow/gully at the far left of this picture. Gothic Peak (left) and Castle Rocks from the east with a melt pond in the foreground Del Campo peak with frozen Foggy (Crater) lake in foreground Approaching the Gothic Peak summit block, the normal route climbs the left ridge Summit block rock scramble View down toward Foggy lake from the top Del Campo peak west face from the top of Gothic View of the Monte Cristo group (?) to the south Gear Notes: Ice axe, helmet, gaiters, bicycle (for the Monte Cristo road approach). Crampons and snowshoes are a waste, but I always seem to bring them... Approach Notes: The approach trail disappears after the three waterfalls, I believe it traverses south along the Weden Creek drainage and through a gap into the basin. A good but steep short cut is to climb straight up and over the ridge divide to Foggy Lake, via the next drainage over past the "three waterfalls" basin, which drains the south shoulder of Del Campo.

I just posted a new Trip Report on The Brothers from 7/2/11. Conditions were awesome...check it out. I'll try to figure out how to upload a few pictures.

Trip: The Brothers - Standard Date: 7/2/2011 Trip Report: Climbed The Brothers standard route (south gully) on Saturday, July 2. Organized the trip with Zach (summithound) and Nick, Jared, all from NW hikers, plus Sandy came up to climber's camp. Left the TH around 5:15pm on Friday and made camp at the Lena creek forks around 9pm, as it was getting dark. The tents were on snow. A few other tents were already there. Left camp around 7am and made the summit by 10:30am. We missed the climber's trail up the Lena creek drainage (half under snow) and bushwacked with GPS help, then crossed a few avalanche debris snow fields, until we reached the magic gully that leads to the top. The entire route up above camp was firm snow (except for the rock at the very very top), the snow in the morning was well consolidated but soft enough to kick steps and toe kick up. Near the top there was a little confusion as some tracks led straight to the ridge (always stay right...got it), we traversed over and climbed over a few wind cornices to reach the exposed rock at the top, watch for falling rocks as people descend above you. After lazing around the warm, sunny summit for almost an hour, down was so much fun...the snow had softened up, a little down climbing with toe pointing at the very top, otherwise big steps down in soft snow, and some super epic glissades of probably 1,500 vertical feet all told. The entire lower gully was glissaded, almost to the creek. Packed up base camp with a celebratory IPA (courtesy of Nick who packed 5 cans up, cheers), then burgers and beer at the very awesome Eagle Creek Saloon in nearby Lilliwaup around 6:30pm, home in Seattle by 10pm. Times (+/-) 3.5 hours to climber's camp 3.5 hours to the summit 2.5 hours back to base camp 3 hours to the car (with some feet soaking in Lena Lake) Link to the NW Hikers Trip Report (by Zach/Summithound) with photos: NW Hikers Trip Report Gear Notes: Ice axe, helmet, gaiters were sufficient. (Brought crampons but didn't need them, nor any rope.) Cold beer a plus... Approach Notes: The trail past Lena Lake (Valley of the Silent Men) has a few icky spots...washouts, bogs, swamps, etc. Photos: Climber's camp at the creek fork (3,000 ft.) Ascending the lower gully snow slope around 4,500 ft. Ian ascending the upper snow gully, above the hourglass. Jared approaching a rounded snow cornice near 6,200 ft. Looking back down toward the small cornices and upper gully. Leaving snow for the 100' of exposed rock at the summit block View of Mt. Washington and Eleanor to the south Ian on top with the north summit and Mt. Constance in the distance Down climbing through the small snow cornice

FYI A co-worker of mine did the south route last weekend, still had to walk about 3 miles on the access road on snow to get to the Cold Creek Campground. Camped at 7500 feet, then to the summit and back to the car the next day. http://fostermtrainier.blogspot.com/

Try USGS store link to NOrth Cascades Map here