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pcg

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Everything posted by pcg

  1. Does this mean you are waving at the Stephensons? ...still in business and still nekid.
  2. For clarification... does the above apply to all of Farside or only to the Dropzone area? Many thanks to those who developed this area and left it mainly trad.
  3. Check summer climbs scheduled at mazamas.org.
  4. I think he meant Opus.
  5. BC. Colorado is full.
  6. How many people injured free soloing are able to take this survey?
  7. Sorry I don't know where else to post this. I'm looking for beta on Saddle Mountain in the north Oregon Coast Range. I did a search and all I could find were some posts re. ice conditions there. I've hiked to the top several times in years past, but not with an eye to rock climbing. Has anyone climbed there? How chossy is the rock? Any other beta? Many thanks.
  8. pcg

    Boots for Climbing

    In my opinion normal hiking boots are ideal for Mt. Adams for hiking in good weather. Mt. Adams is a long slog and I would not recommend doing it in rented boots that will be heavier than you need and likely not fit well. The key is to have flexible crampons that fit well and stay on. In your case, however, the rounded edge of the sole on the boot you picture looks like it may not fit crampons well so I would first confirm you can hike in these with crampons and that they won't come loose after awhile.
  9. +1 Love those pants! Very durable as well, except for the velcro tabs at the bottom, which need to be replaced periodically. I'd buy another pair if they hadn't been discontinued.
  10. pcg

    SOLD

    I'll take the rope. PM sent.
  11. I think I just found a solution for this. I have always used strap-on steel crampons because I can fit them over most anything... except my AT boots. After a year's deliberation I finally decided to purchase some Al pons for those trips where I will only be on snow and ice. I'm not an ice climber, but occasionally find myself on ice and am then grateful to have steel crampons (and sharp points). Wanting to shed weight and also wanting crampons that fit my AT boots better I just purchased the Camp XLC Nanotech Auto crampons. They are all aluminum except the front points are steel. I haven't received them yet so I can't offer any feedback, but I have high hopes.
  12. Fun bouldering and top roping on solid rock at Horsethief Butte 30 minutes east and across the bridge at The Dalles.
  13. Note the warming trend that peaks tonight and Saturday morning - not good for snow stability.
  14. No specific infor on cloud ceiling/deck, but there are specific forecasts for various elevations. http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Hood/forecasts/2500
  15. Treat yourself to dinner and a night at Timberline Lodge. Rough it and stay at Cold Springs campground the night before. Don't forget to go by the ranger station in Trout Lake and buy a permit before you climb Mt. Adams. You can pick them up at an unattended box after hours - $15 if I recall correctly. Yes. I hope the weather cooperates. You will sleep well on Day 9 if it does.
  16. After May 15, Mt. Hood Meadows will be closed. Any of the bowls (1,2,3,4,5) to lookers' left of the Mt. Hood Express lift would make excellent practice sites. Be aware of avy danger if new snow falls or in the afternoons when old snow warms up. All of these bowls will slide though 2 bowl not so much. Also be aware that the gullies mentioned above at Tline are terrain traps and not a good place to be when avy danger exists. The big gully uphill from the climber's parking lot at Tline typically slides big time in May/June. I cringe every time I see people skinning up the BOTTOM of that gully.
  17. Yes, and it would track better, but takes more effort to get it carving - meaning you have to up/down weight or make some other effort to apply more pressure to the edges to initiate carving. You can't just lay the ski on edge and expect it to carve by itself, as a ski with more sidecut will tend to do. And of course you can still turn them w/o carving.
  18. Beware... if you can't keep them comfortable and happy they will learn fast that a trip in the pack with daddy is not fun. Keep them warm and stop frequently and take them out of the carrier a lot. If all goes well they will sleep during a lot of the time you are hiking. I also tried towing my daughter in a sled behind me while bc skiing, but that turned out to be too rough a ride for her. Eventually I realized it was time to focus on being a daddy and I basically gave up a lot of things I would have otherwise done. I could not have lived with myself otherwise. Now I'm back at it.
  19. Are you referring to his drawing? Please elaborate. Thanks.
  20. Warming starts when the sun comes up - about 6am.
  21. I agree. What really bothers me is all the wannabes that drive their car up to Tline before they start climbing. If you really wanna climb the mountain then start in Govy where the mountain starts. Geez!
  22. pcg

    Mt Hood Gear list?

    and don't fall... They apparently had an accident, and because they were traveling alpine style they were unable to successfully cope with it.
  23. pcg

    Mt Hood Gear list?

    No, they left it behind so they could travel light.
  24. Jay Peterson, in Portland, is very good. He does complete alignment, including cants, custom footbeds, stretching/molding/replacing liners, shell mods, etc., including video taping of you skiing until alignment is correct. He is an ex pro skier and bc guide and knows AT gear very well. He has done two pairs of boots for me and I couldn't be happier. Jay Peterson
  25. Not sure about that specific instance, but here's one instance that he explains... http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/968375/
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