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PeakBeggar

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Everything posted by PeakBeggar

  1. Trip: Mt. Shuksan - North Face Date: 7/7/2013 Trip Report: Climbed the north face of shuksan the weekend after the 4th of july. The trip report can be seen on my blog - HERE Snow was soft but allowed for easy passage. Here are a few photos from the trip Gear Notes: used pickets, 30 m glacier rope, 1 ice screw (may have been unnecessary...), crampons, 2 tools Approach Notes: Bushwhacked thru the White Salmon, it was horrendous. Exited via Fisher Chimneys
  2. glad to see you guys made it off safe! I was the leader of the other party up there that day, the couloir was snag-town indeed! Did it get stuck in the same spot as ours did? That was highly frustrating. I couldn't tell but it felt like we were pulling our ropes alone... i am guessing you all weren't guiding it? If you were, then a million kudos to you!
  3. Trip: Forbidden Peak - West Ridge Date: 6/14/2013 Trip Report: Two friends and I took a shot at Forbidden on Friday/Saturday and made it pretty darn close to the summit but turned around due to our inefficiency! The ridge has plenty of snow but there was another party up there in rock shoes (we wore plastics, even with crampons at times). Check out photos and video on my blog! Video -->> Blog -->> http://cascadiastan.blogspot.com/2013/06/forbidden-peak-west-ridge-near-summit.html Any info on the story of the other party mentioned at the end trip report would be cool. They appeared to be having "an epic" - group of 4 Gear Notes: used pickets, rock pro to 2", 2 60 meter ropes (3 climbers, also 60m raps in the couloir), left a biner up there for the raps Approach Notes: snow began at tree line near 5,000 feet IIRC. Road melted out
  4. Here is the craigslist post http://bellingham.craigslist.org/spo/3813327081.html 2 metolius master cams (2 and 3) and one wild country friend. let me know if interested!
  5. Awesome! I have had my eye on the North Face and I am stoked to see you guys have done it! Looks like a blast - Shuksan sure is beautiful
  6. Nate! Good to see you at Pine, I see you're on top of your Cascade Climber TRs!
  7. Trip: Mt. Shuksan - White Salmon and Hell's Highway Date: 3/26/2013 Trip Report: My bud Scotty and I tackled Shuksan on Tuesday after a failed attempt at going up to Ruth last Saturday/Sunday. We left the car at about 2 a.m. and were back by 6 p.m., on the summit at 1 pm. Trip report can be found on my blog http://cascadiastan.blogspot.com/2013/03/mt-shuksan-via-white-salmon-hells.html and a video account can be found here as well. PS if you know who these nice people are - http://imgur.com/Y0Fj8fv - tell them we said "hey!" Gear Notes: Used Glacier rope (one short section), splitboard crampons, crampons, two ice tools Approach Notes: very hard snow on the lower elevations in the morning, very horrendously sloppy snow on the lower elevations in the afternoon. Otherwise pretty standard
  8. SWEET! looks like an awesome trip! Cool photos, those lines in the last photo look excellent!
  9. You're welcome for the skin track! We were the first up that day (party of three), the skin track was only lightly buried for us however. It appeared a party had summited the day before. Awesome times up there! What a gorgeous day, one could not ask for better snow or weather! (ok, maybe a bit less wind on top...)
  10. Trip: Mt. Baker - Coleman Deming Date: 3/9/2013 Trip Report: Well I see there is another TR from the same day, but nonetheless here is mine on my Blog - http://cascadiastan.blogspot.com/2013/03/mt-baker-coleman-deming-snowboard.html Also includes a video which can be found here - Approach Notes: 12 hours up - brought a lot of crevasse gear we didn't use!
  11. Trip: Banff National Park - Date: 2/14/2013 Trip Report: We spent the weekend in Banff National Park doing ice and mixed climbing - TR on my blog. It was an awesome time in a spectacular place http://cascadiastan.blogspot.com/2013/02/a-weekend-in-banff-national-park.html Gear Notes: ice screws and draws, also if you have 70 meter ropes that would be a good idea (we did not) Approach Notes: snowshoes would have been awesome in places
  12. Sweet, thanks for the suggestions I will definitely do some homework on those routes!
  13. A friend and I are heading to Banff this coming friday through monday to check out the area and do some climbing and I was hoping that you all could give me some suggestions on awesome routes to check out, spots I can't miss, places i must see, and good coffee ! I am new to ice climbing (but not new to climbing) and my buddy is comfortable up to WI4+ about, to narrow it down. Let me know anything you think would make for a better trip! Thanks, chuck
  14. Hey I think we ran into you that night first night, my friend and I were heading up Hogsback as you were descending.
  15. Awesome! What a great couple of days it was! My party arrived at the cascade pass parking area about 10:45, i had been talkin up J-burg and was pointing out the line - its too bad we didn't look a little closer! Soo sick My party is probably in your 3rd or 4th to last shot, we attempted formidable but (as the 10:45 start might suggest) we got a super late start and had a delay along the way putting us at Kool-aid lake, not Spider/Formidable col. We ended up making the trek to the Middle Cascade Glacier and getting onto the N ridge of Spider for some views. Tough to beat! Catch the Northern Lights at all?
  16. Trip: West McMillan Spire - Video Report - standard Date: 7/28/2012 Trip Report: Made a video of our trip up WMS - started 8:30 am at TH, made it to the Bivy just before 4 pm. Started about 6:15 am on the 29th, made it to the summit by 10 am, back to bivy at 12:15, Left bivy at 1:20 and made it to the car by 6:15 pm. Highly recommend this route, and HIGHLY recommend going very light as we did Gear Notes: crampons, ice axe, helmet Approach Notes: slogging, but other than being steep and tiring it is good
  17. Hey CC, I am looking for some help/resources for planning a trip lasting around a month that takes me into the Sierras for hiking and climbing. I am graduating from college and want to take this opportunity to see California's mountains a bit closer, however I have not done any alpine climbing in this range. After visiting Yosemite Valley last spring and seeing off into the higher sierras on a nice sunny day, i do believe this area will be awesome to explore some more! My intentions on such a trip are to do some basic climbing/scrambling of peaks in the high sierra while also *seeing* as much as possible along the way. In other words, I am not trying to do the most technical routes and I am looking more along the lines of awesome loop hikes with peaks to mount along the way. An example of this would be doing the John Muir Trail with side trips to summit some peaks, or perhaps just segments of the JMT that contain a plethora of outstanding peaks. My goal is to go moderately light, sometime in spring to summer (suggestions? I'm not afraid of snow but extended periods of camping on snow gets to me...), with one or two friends and spend as much time as possible in the wilderness. Because I would like to do longer sections of trails I am looking to minimize technical gear required, so routes involving lots of trad gear are not ideal ( i also don't have a rack... thats more the reason). So help me out if you can! I am looking into purchasing some literature I found in an older post in this forum (perhaps THe High Sierra, by Secor?). Know of any similar Trip Reports you could link me to? Any suggestions are useful! thanks, peakbeggar P.S. hope posting in the route reports section is cool, i didn't spot a better option....
  18. Thank you for the suggestions. Is "squak mtn" supposed to be "Sauk mtn?" I cannot find squak in the beckey guides but sauk is there and is listed as a good peak for beginning winter ascents.
  19. Hey CC, I have a question for you! I am looking for some basic winter climbs, preferably on hwy 542 of 20 but anywhere in Western Wa is acceptable, that are rewarding but not outstandingly technical. I have done plenty of bigger climbs in spring and summer throughout the state but not much other than touring on splitboard in the winter. I have some skilled rock climbing friends that want to get on top of some peaks, but have little in mountaineering experience. Have any suggestions? I can't wait for the spring season to get up there! Thanks! Peakbeggar
  20. Hello CC forum! I am looking for advice on schooling for my wilderness adventures. After this last summer where i found myself in situations that were beyond my skill level with people that i did not truly believe were skilled enough to guide the group I know its necessary for me to learn the skills myself. ideally i would like to take a WILFER course and an avi/galcier-course this winter. And not in any particular order, i'd like to begin the task of learning the skills of lead climbing on traditional routes. Soo.. the questions are (and keep in mind that I am a college student in b'ham for another year...); What mountaineering/climbing educational resources have worked for you and what programs would you recommend? Examples that come to mind are through the American Alpine institute or the Seattle mountaineers (b'ham chapter i'm thinking). How did you learn the art of lead climbing and traditional protection? Would you recommend paying for lessons in order to "learn it right?" Thanks CC, charlie
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