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summitchaserCJB

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Everything posted by summitchaserCJB

  1. This is kind of a joke but lets see what happens.
  2. Am I serious about adding a poll? Yes.
  3. I really don't care if you laugh at me or not. I could really care less. A guide is based on the consensus of a portion of the climbing community. Now in this particular case I think you're right about thin fingers I was just trying to make the point that the original guidebook had a 10d/11a grade on thin fingers.
  4. But it's definitive when you say the guide is wrong?
  5. Just annoyed but want to point out that thin fingers is basically low - mid 5.10 with a v1-v2 move off a ledge... Index Guide hmmm...what is that supposed to mean? you can kid yourself that thin fingers is anything but a 5.10 with a small boulder problem off of a no-hands rest.. technically, a V1+-V2 move is 5.11- so the V rating is actually a better description of that particular route than a 5.11 rating... \ um...read the guide.... I didn't write it. But it is the definitive guide on Index...
  6. Of course, the part of the story you don't know is I was going to rope solo Breakfast of Champions. But that part of the story just doesn't sound as good, right?
  7. is the guy above sporting the jeans, external frame, and belaying across what appears to be a ski area?
  8. Just annoyed but want to point out that thin fingers is basically low - mid 5.10 with a v1-v2 move off a ledge... Index Guide
  9. Four cams and nuts isn't a full rack buddy.
  10. Ya- One guide says 10b and thats the guide I use. But a lot of people disagree.
  11. Got cha off white. I thought so but wanted to verify...
  12. BTW- thanks for the 11 stoke.
  13. Not really offended- just annoyed by this site sometimes. I've TRed thin fingers with a very short rest at the crux so I have the strength and technical ability to push into the 11's- maybe when you consider placing gear. Just a matter of pushing the mind. And heart of the country is 10b. I don't think it is correct to call that 10- (?)
  14. I concur. Anything that gives the illusion of safety is a plus. Also, anything that puts everyone else around you in danger is a plus. (Sarcasm)
  15. The gym just seems easier because you do it more. Not to be argumentative but I almost never go to the gym but I climb outside a ton (check my TR's- that is not even everything I've done so far this year.) -Not to toot my own horn either just filling you in. I've been to the gym once this year but have climbed outside at least 20 times so far. And most of those times were at Index so- I kinda know a little bit about that area and its rating system.
  16. Looks like the top of Evergreen mountain. nope
  17. V4 means a couple (or even just one) 12- moves. Close to the ground with generally no 'headspace' involved. The system generally goes like this. V0-5.10- V1-5.10+ V2-5.11 V3-5.11+ V4-5.12- V5-5.12 V6-5.12+ V7-5.13- V8-5.13 V9-5.13+ V10-5.14a V11-5.14b V12-5.14c V13-5.14d V14-5.15a V15-5.15 I can boulder V10, there is no way I can send 5.14a yet. But I can generally pull the crux move of a 5.14a though if I dog up to it, then take after I do the moves. Thats cool and all, but I like the ground-up approach. That makes no sense as a reply to what I just said!?!?! At all! I said that because it seems that you like to do one crux move of a route and then hang dog after it just so you can say you can climb that grade.
  18. V4 means a couple (or even just one) 12- moves. Close to the ground with generally no 'headspace' involved. The system generally goes like this. V0-5.10- V1-5.10+ V2-5.11 V3-5.11+ V4-5.12- V5-5.12 V6-5.12+ V7-5.13- V8-5.13 V9-5.13+ V10-5.14a V11-5.14b V12-5.14c V13-5.14d V14-5.15a V15-5.15 I can boulder V10, there is no way I can send 5.14a yet. But I can generally pull the crux move of a 5.14a though if I dog up to it, then take after I do the moves. Thats cool and all, but I like the ground-up approach.
  19. The song is Radio Silence by my friend Nick Weaver AKA NHW. His tracks are free online I believe.
  20. That was my point. The problem is that the same grades are used inside/outside. I think the left side is much harder.
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