Vernman23

Went into Strobach yesterday. Nothing really to note...warm wet delam ice. Pictures make things look better than they are.

4+/5 seems fair.

The climb you called “Stairway to Heaven” across the lake we did a few days before you. It is called Bombs over old Baghdad.

Felt fine. We brought skis and a drill to check depth. I was deep and solid.

Looking for information on the first climb across the lake at banks lake. It is not Tea in the Sahara. Climbed it today. Assumed it’s been climbed but just wondering if anyone has information.

I did it on 7/12 didn't bring crampons or and ice axe but did have trekking poles and found the snow to be very soft and no need for crampons or ice axe. I hit the bottom of the route about noon. Summit around 2p.m. so the sun had plenty of time to warm things up.

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For the vast majority of the time pickets are worthless, unless you spend a lot of time compacting snow and burying the picket (there is data out there which is worth reading http://arc.lib.montana.edu/snow-science/objects/ISSW_O-061.pdf). I don't think their is any myth in the community about the dangers of that route. This is not the first nor the last time that someone has got seriously hurt in there. As the first ground rescuer who would have been on the scene (if they needed to be moved for the heli to be able to get to) I was for one not excited to be climbing part of the route in order to move them, as I waited in a t-shirt). Luckily they were able to get out quickly and it shows how lucky they are that we had heli support. Glad that the two climbers brought the right gear and had a PLB. Hopefully they can organize a rescue crew for the rest of their leftover camping gear...I will donate beer to the effort but my days of hiking the road for fun are over...Sorry

Wouldn't call Mazama Ice fat but I did climb the Chech Gully yesterday which was in really good fun shape. More parties are headed up tomorrow. By the weekend things should be shaped up nicely.

Trip: Aasgard Pass - The Valkyrie Date: 8/29/2014 Trip Report: Headed up to climb Acid Baby but there was a group of three starting and a group of two waiting (no idea this route was so popular!). With the wait and never liking to climb under people we switched gears and climbed The Valkyrie. Blake's TR has the best beta mine is just to add to it a bit. I added what I felt like are the grades and different pitch options just to add to the dialogue on this amazing route! P1. Up slab 5.8 to corner which is fun and protects well 5.10b. Belay at the orange wall. P2. Step out right and into crack (fairly heady move) 5.10c/d? (sections until the off-width felt hard). Continue up widening crack to off-width 5.10b didn't use anything larger than a 3 and thought it would be hard to place when jammed in the crack. Continue up to left facing hand crack 10b. Belay at the end here on horn or with a 70 continue straight up for another ~25m on face holds and cracks to a blocky belay that had a red sling tied around it (doing 3/4ths of p3 via Blake's topo) P3. Two options if you linked p2&3 via Blake's topo you can continue up and slightly left and do the rest of P3 (about 20m) or you can continue straight up from the belay via thin finger cracks (10+/11- & dirty) which takes you right into the corner that you traverse into on the standard P4, corner felt like 5.9/10-. P4/5. Continue up easy cracks to face knobs (5.10b) then you can either belay quickly here or with a 70 you can finish off the ridge traverse of Acid Baby (5.9 exposed). To get off you walk off don't try to rap walk off is easy. down climb from ridge to scree traverse north (climbers left) then head East (up) then you will be on top and its an easy walk down to your pack. Gear Notes: Doubles to 3" handful of slings. Approach Notes: up hill

You and your ICE WORMS! Well done way to get out!!!

Compared to my mistake of not getting a pass? Yeah huge violation there to go climb snow creek! Seems like if they only have one year or left on the grant that they would find a way to pay for it and what better way to pay for it then implement a new permit system by saying they are keeping people "safe" and protecting the environment! Not very often a government agency shrinks...

Yesterday Craig G and I headed up to climb Snow Creek (or Prusik to see what the climbing ranger would say). We were asked if we filled out a permit at the trailhead (we had not) and were told to do so since "They are currently free" This struck us as an odd statement "they are currently free" implying that they might not be free in the future?! Wondering what everyone was thinking about this, if anyone had heard anything...

Climb some place other than Castle Rock?

I think we topped out around 5 or so. Pretty full on day! We were about 17 hours car to car maybe...I can't remember for sure. Way to get out there!

Price drop to $500. Also will take reasonable offers.

For sale a set of Petzl Ergo ice tools. Asking $550 That is 170 off of retail. Tools have been used twice. A few small scratches. The picks that are included have been used on other tools but still have a lot of life left. Email me at Vern.nelson@hotmail.com or text at 4252316633. I am located in Wenatchee.

Highly doubt that anything worth climbing is left. Go to Vantage and rock climb.

Craig and I felt that the climb was a bit sketchy due to potential ice fall. We also talked about how if this climb came in every year we would not be surprised if there were a hand full of epics on it. We also had full sun and warm temps in the afternoon, Craig was down to his base layer by pitch 5. Looked like following ascents had some cloud cover which makes a big difference. A bit more than a "casual day" if you don't hit conditions perfectly. Glad everyone is safe. Sucks about the rope.

Not really. We found a way to stay pretty far away from all houses. It is totally possible to do Tyee and Frigus Manus in a day (day light day). Would be a fun day. I would drive from Seattle for it. Just go past Tyee Falls Ranch and park in the small pullout on the left (west) side of the road. There is a high snow bank look over that down into the trees and you should see a really good boot pack. If we get a bunch of snow there could be some AVI concerns on an approach to Frigus Manus. I think you should be fine though...

Trip: Entiat, WA - FA Frigus Manus WI5+ 60M Date: 1/22/2013 Trip Report: Wayne Wallace and I spent two days up the Entiat this weekend. Friday we climbed What do Aredenvoirs Eat? and Tyee Falls. We scoped some new lines at about the 20.5 mile marker I believe and headed up to them Monday morning. Wayne took a crack at a sketchy looking mixed line but there is not natural pro on worse than shitty rock. He wise-fully made the choice to bail. We moved over to the left and climbed what we believe to be a FA which we called Frigus Manus. This named seemed fitting after my hands got so cold I had to have Wayne send up my thicker gloves. We rated it WI 5+. It was a full 60M to the belay. It is worth doing and should be in for awhile! Things up the Entiat are looking really good and should be in this weekend. Seems like the only place around with really good ice. Park right past Tyee Falls ranch at the first little pull out on the left hand side of the road and find the boot pack over the bank. River is frozen well enough. Sorry no time to write an in-depth narrative of the climb like for Goat's Beard. Too busy right now with other things. Approach Notes: Snowshoes needed. Walk up hill. We had horrible snow conditions took about 1.5-2 hours.

I will semi-agree with John on the grade of "III". Sounds like John and Co. found much more favorable conditions than we did (not full sun). It took all day for Craig and I dark to dark (perhaps we are slow). We had different conditions, really ZERO beta of the route, no drafting pick holes, no idea if it would go and placing all our own V-threads. Its a full day adventure which according to Wiki is a IV. So I could see a III or IV. Two fast moving parties have climbed it. I would hate to call it a III (half day climb) and have people epic. Not that its our responsibility to look out after them. Most of the data that I took was from the book with out much thought. Im ok with "III" though (if thats even appropriate since its not an alpine climb?). "III" grades have changed as they should and John is most likely right on the "III" and right that it was a fun climb! Im glad that it came out and that people got on it! All I really know is it was a fun climb with a really good friend who did A LOT of work scouting and spent a lot of time checking conditions. I was happy that he shared it with me and allowed me along. "The rules of the game must be constantly updated to keep up with the expanding technology. Otherwise we overkill the classic climbs and delude ourselves into thinking we are better climbers than the pioneers." -Yvon Chouinard

I got about 4 inches...on a side note a man died out at Banks this weekend. My guess is he fell from the trail top roping "The Cable". I could be wrong but be careful out there guys.

Trip: Mazama, WA - Goats Beard. FFA (Known). WI5 Grade IV/V Date: 1/12/2013 Trip Report: Going into this weekend I was full of uncertainty. I was not sure where I wanted to go or what would be in. Craig Gyselinck and I had made plans to get on Goats Beard in Mazama. Then a get a FB message from Craig Pope about going in to Strobach....hmmm decisions, decisions. I knew that its been about 20 years since there was a second ascent (Known) of Goats Beard but I also know that going into Strobach with Craig would mean getting some FA’s. The fact that Strobach comes in just about every year and Goats Beard comes in maybe ever 20 years the choice was fairly obvious. According to Washington State Ice Goat’s Beard was first climbed in the early 90’s going at Grade V, WI 5/5+, 5.9, A2. As far as I know it has not seen a complete second ascent. Goat’s Beard has shut down some of the best climbers in the world. Things were not looking all that good for us. I met Craig G. at the Park and Ride at 4:15 and off we were to Mazama. As we drove the temps dropped more and more. I think in both of our minds was the thought that we were going to drive up there and for some reason we would be climbing some place else today. As we drove further and further up towards Mazama we watched the temperature gauge on the car drop from 16 down to zero. Craig ask me, “Does your temperature gauge go below zero?” “I don’t know. Don't think I have ever taken the car anywhere that cold.” A second later it drops to -1. We both laugh, but know it might be getting to the point of too cold to climb. As we progress we talk about other options. Both knowing there is really only one option at this point. By the time we park the car its -6. We throw on Rage Against Machines and try to get pumped. Im just tired and if not for Craig I would have fallen asleep in the car and waited for sun. That always seems to be the key to a good partnership, who can bring the stoke when the other person is tired or sketched. Craig got me out of the car, up the first pitch and then somewhere in the middle we switched roles. Everyone has their parts on a trip. On this particular trip they were fulfilled. In the early dawn we get a few ok looks at the route and start walking. Snowshoes were a must, we find soft untracked snow. My mind drifts back to the simpler times in life (before I found ice climbing) and thinking how much fun it would be to snowboard down this soft untracked snow we are snowshoeing up. Its cold and we push on. The sun comes out we get a good look at the climb. F^&k the second crux pillar is not in...dreams pretty much gone. We have a small rock rack. Craig claims that he will “aid it even if he has to do it with ice screws”. We continue. We get a good look at the route and I notice a small corner that appears to be holding ice. I dub it “Nelson’s Corner”, stoke is back on, we continue at a faster pace of excitement... We slow down so we don’t start sweating. We both know that wet clothing could quickly end the attempt in -6 degree air. We gear up and are climbing by 8am. Craig starts out on the first pitch. Stuff starts falling down. Im concerned. Alex said, “In the winter of 2000, climbers watched as over 300 feet of the route toppled to the ground. No doubt this is a dangerous but spectacular climb...” Craig seems to be ok with how things are and I focus on how to second most efficient...less time we can spend on this route the better. Craig climbs a rope stretching 60m pitch and I follow. I get the first crux pitch. A thin curtain that looks ok from below. I start up and instantly become less confident. I know I have the ability to climb it but I don’t know if this mountain is going to allow me to do so. The ice is thin, no good purchase. Any minute I feel as though both feet or both tools could rip through the ice. Screws are pretty much worthless. Any good sticks come with a hollow thud and the whole thing shakes...Breathe, breathe, shake the mind demons, climb. I finish the curtain, I'm gripped. I tell Craig that he better not climb it and tell me it was easy. My pitch leads up another full 60 meters. I set up my belay in a small gully, not the best location but where is on this route? I throw Craig on, he comes up. The whole time I am thinking about the stuff hanging above our heads. The sun is now out and I feel as though we are in a pretty risky situation. What do you do if your partner dies with the rope? At least he got to go quick...I get to freeze...up rope think about the next pitch. Craig takes P3 for another 60 meters to a rock belay. We talk for a second then decide we should move quick. There is lots of stuff hanging above us and we want to get by it. The plan is for me to lead up to “Nelson’s Corner” get a belay in and Craig gets that pitch. He keeps the rock gear. Up I go. The ice is not great, cauliflower, pro is useless in this ice, 60m takes me bellow the hangers...no good ice, no safe belay. Rope goes tight. “We have to SIMUL!!!” “WHAT?” “YOU HAVE TO CLIMB!!!” Slack in the rope. We begin to simul. I go up through “Nelson’s Corner”, one ok screw, ice is getting warm. I wish I had the rock gear. Long run outs, if Craig falls I'm dead...breathe, trust, breathe... 30m of no good pro simul climbing brings me to a belay cave that I quickly flop into. Blast screws bring up Craig. We are both tired. Water and gu in the cave. Craig’s lead. He gets the first good look at the final crux pillar. “Craig, how does it look!?” “Hard!!!” Thats all I get hard? For those of you who know Craig it is probably a lengthy response. 60m and he brings me up. I get my first look at the final pitch. It looks hard...WI5 shape and no telling from where we are how consistent it is. If its any thing like the first curtain we need a plan B. Craig is about ready to bail...its to hard we are not worthy. Time for me to bring the psych. I gear up and climb...Its hard...have to earn all my own sticks, no drafting here...tired...top out the crux stoked!!! Follow lower angled ice to the trees. Rope goes tight right as I get to the tree. Craig said he was worried that he was going to have to Simul the crux. Small celebration ensues but short lived. We still have to get down. We wander over and hope to find some bolts to rap off. No luck...back to the trees and back down into the danger zone. Things go smooth. Craig hits his V threads. We make a meandering rap down “Nelson’s Corner”. Blast in a thread. “Pulling orange correct?” “Yes.” “It is not pulling.” “Maybe it’s blue.” We know its not blue but we are in the most dangerous part of the route. We need a hope. Nothing. We both know what has to be done...neither of us want to do it... “I’ll climb up and see if I can change the angle and get it free.” “Clip into the strand so at least if you fall you’ll fall to me and not die.” Thanks Craig. Up I go to try and free the rope. No luck. Go up a bit more...no luck... “F(*K!” I know what is going to have to be done. Im going to have to essentially solo the corner again. I don’t know if I have it in me. But what other options do we have? I look closer I notice the ropes running under a small hanger. Blue rope is tight above it and loose below it. Grab blue, pull, orange moves, grab orange it pulls! “F*(K YES!!!” “Whats wrong?” “Nothing rope is free!!!” Ecstatic!!! “F(&KING ROPE IS FREE!!!” Down we go. Few more raps go well. We find bolts and take advantage of it. Right at dark we are down. Smiles ensue. We both feel like we stole something. With all the objective hazardous that this route presents that you can not eliminate we did steal something. Back to the car to find a note on the car that upped the stoke, “ CONGRATS! THAT’S PROBABLY ONLY THE 2ND COMPLETE ASCENT OF THE BEARD!” We drive back. We are happy 400+ Meters of constant ice. We rate it at WI5 Grade IV/V. Craig says he’s quitting ice, cant climb anything to top this. I have heard it before...I smile... First Crux pillar/curtain above Final Crux Pillar Craig tilts the photos the complete opposite of most people. Happy! Note left on car Gear Notes: Screws, small assortment of rock pro (pins, nuts and small cams). Approach Notes: Snowshoes a must. Trail is well established now.