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YocumRidge
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Posts posted by YocumRidge
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I have just received my free copy as a contributing author, so I ended up with the two. If you still want it, let me know. I am in Portland.
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Gawd, Ivan, the birthday boy, looks damn young
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I thought the best from the Modern Pantheon was "Cerebral Dream".
"I met up with Steve Elder to attempt a new line on the Black Spider of Mt. Hood. It was July. With ice axes, crampons and plastic mountaineering boots, we climbed 5.9 sulfur...The rock came off in our hands...Yocum Ridge the following week was considerably more straightforward in comparison".
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i fear change
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You were supposed to go on a diet and stop breaking the damn holds off, Mr
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Up for sale are two pairs of gently used rocks shoes.
1. La Sportiva Testarossa Vibram XS Grip2 high performance shoes.
Never been resoled, plenty of life left.
Euro size 38.5/UK 5.5/ US mens 6.5/US womens 7.5
No holes, tears or stains.
Retail $175, asking $75.
2. Acopa Chameleons.
No longer made, these comfortable, medium stiff, unlined shoes perform equally well on all types of climbing - slabby edgework, all types of cracks, long routes and boulder problems. A comfy performance shoe and great for wide feet.
The shoes are in good shape, clean, no tears, stains or holes. They have never been resoled and have plenty of original rubber left. Size US men 8/US womens 9/UK 7.0/EURO 40 3/4.
Retail $135 (if you can find them), asking $45 obo.
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I am very happy with my 40B, I used it for a few years now, and nothing comes close to it. I got rid of the various "ultra-light" large volume packs as they were just simply too painful for me with heavy loads. If you are thinking of winter trips, multi-day trips, hauling - get this pack. Very comfy to climb with, great back suspension. If the loads are 40 lbs +, the extra frame sheet it comes with does help.
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Another correction:
The picture on P. 165 (Cooper Spur chapter) shows the summit pyramid and overhanging cornice for the standard North face route, but not Cooper Spur.
See this TR:
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=967319
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getting everyone all stoked for action.
Yep, Steve - have fun, look good, safety third - I think we got it all covered here!
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Didn't mention the NF rap, no second confirmation... will definitely add it if anyone would id the position and condition of the bolt. Pics?
Bill, please contact ColinB re: NF rap situation. He has got the latest topo/updates, possibly pics.
REI Portland wants to do book signings last Friday of Aug and/or first Friday of Sept.
How are they going to do the book signings if they did not even get the book in stock?
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Thanks for the recommendation, John!
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Trip: STUART - Ice Cliff Arete
Date: 8/10/2014
Trip Report:
Ever since I climbed the complete north ridge on Stuie last September, I was admiring the impressive skyline dividing the Ice cliff and Sherpa glaciers – the elusive Ice Cliff arête. I made some inquiries which yielded little info. The glorious John Plotz however reassured me that the arête is a hidden gem and should be “fun”. I guess we would go with just that.
Ice Cliff Arete as seen from the lower North Ridge (September 2013):
Dan (DPS) and I rolled into the Stuart lake p-lot around midnight on Fri. The 8-mile road now has a striking resemblance to the access to Black Velvet canyon in Red rawks – wheel alignment ensued. We started at the TH at 3.15 a.m. – the going is always fast, refreshing and light in the dark but not so much when the sun is up.
The meadow and boulder field below Sherpa gl. are vicious. The mosquitoes the size of hummingbirds live there and they almost ate me alive.
At the base of the arête:
We went up the clean slabs to the left of the first tower between two waterfalls on cl. 4 – mid 5, passing the signs of the earlier human travel – a few pieces of fixed gear. At this point I was sad to part with my new hiking pole made of Oregonian pine and specifically designed to deliver the individuals with injured ankles to the base of alpine routes. My other one had tragically died on me a few days prior almost at the same location: Bloodshed
Dan is about to head up the approach slabs:
After crossing the right most snow finger, we located the famous “pink granite” ramp and roped up in the moat below it. The pink ramp however turned out to be a total blank so I went up the crack system to the left – 3 pitches to the crest of the arête.
En route to the crest on the delightful Sierras type granite:
The last pitch to the crest behind the ice block:
Once on the crest, the simul-climbing on cl. 3, 4 and mid 5 had begun for seems like an eternity.
Here is an overlay of the first half of the route:
Getting to the snow field at the col below the Black Tower was a happy moment in our lives – we had finally reached the shade and a plenty of glacial melt to refill on water.
“What does the route description say as to where do we go on the Black Tower?”
“It says – to climb the Black Tower”.
So, we climb the Black Tower. The right side thereof did not look awesome, neither was the left, so we chose the black open book in the center and cut right thereafter and then left again.
Dan is heading up the open book:
A few more pitches (I stopped counting at this point) and more simul-climbing, and we are on the top of that freaking tower.
Dan admitted the headwall above looked awfully steep but that must have been due to an angle distortion in the fading light. I went ahead and fixed the next pitch along the knife edge ridge, then traversed left and up around the awkward laybacking block. In the fading light. By the time I got down, he had already cleared out two bivy sites on the top of the Black Tower overlooking Sherpa peak.
Next morning we made through the transition and started up the headwall through the overhanging corner. After a take #2 and a small fall, I was very happy to be done with that section.
Here is a long distance action shot of us taken from West Ridge on Sherpa (Photo Credit: Colleen Murphy) and an overlay for the upper part of the route:
Looking down on the Sherpa gl.:
North Ridge and Girth Pillar:
The upper headwall from the belay:
After Dan arrived at the belay, he graciously offered to lead the next pitch… And the next, and the next, after which we simul-climbed for more, through the final OW slot to the summit ridge.
Dan mid-way on the upper headwall:
On the summit ridge:
For the descent, we slogged down southeast below Sherpa, rapped once through the cliff band and merged with the standard Sherpa “trail”. I am still hurting to think about that bitch: way more slow and painful than the crapcadian next door.
All in all, we thought the ice cliff arête was a harder and more thought-provoking alternative to its neighbor - north ridge, with the exceptional quality granite and by no means less aesthetic. Probably, my favorite route on Stuie yet.
Thanks to Dan for another awesome trip!
Gear Notes:
8 mm x 60 m rope, 0.3 - 3", doubles 0.5 - 2", orange link-cam, DMM wallnuts and offsets, RPs. Used all.
Approach Notes:
Mountaineers creek
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I thought you took the best ones last week, no?
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I bet. Now I have one criminal hand too
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Trip: GOODE - NE Butt via Park Creek carryover
Date: 7/27/2014
Trip Report:
On July 27th my friend Simon and I climbed NE Butt on Goode and carried over via Park Creek over 3 long days. The cops in Darrington are mean and for some reason gave me a ticket for the dead headlight.
It has been raining when we got to the Bridge Creek TH and crashing on the cement in the p-lot was not the best thing in the world but it worked. The restrooms at Bridge Creek TH are high end and can be certainly a much better choice of the bivvy material (Ivan?).
The first 10 mile approach on PCT was swift and it took us 3.5 hrs to reach the North Fork junction.
Still full of energy:
Second barefoot crossing of the Grizzly creek:
North Fork Bridge creek crossing was less fortunate for me, as I did manage to fall into that freaking creek:
Simon approaching the slabs:
As we were getting tired of the shwack and heat at this point, we forgot the beta to traverse climbers right and pretty much stayed close to the left waterfall. Not a good idea. The class 3 quickly transformed into a serious cl. 5 for which we got the rope out. Clean and smooth rock and way more solid than anything we climbed on the butt the next day. Still, how many people rope up on this approach – more like a “0”, but whatever – 9 hours after leaving the car we had arrived at the highest bivvy sites at 5400’.
If you think Goode is a remote peak, think again – we had two teams of 4 next to us that weekend.
At the bivvy sites:
Megalodon ridge at sunset. My friends climbed it two weeks prior and rave about it. It would certainly be a mega-classic like TFT if not for the sucky approach (which is less sucky than that for NEB anyway). Still, it seems to be trendy these days and I am secretly hoping it is more solid than NEB too.
We did not see any bears, but this dude chewed a hole in the Simon’s water bladder at night:
Next morning we had to sacrifice some time to fix the bladder and then crossed the Goode gl on the left side through the icefall:
Short vertical alpine ice steps in the approach shoes and Alu crampons plus an ice tool in hand. The other team went on the right side of the icefall and their way seemed to be more straightforward then ours.
Simon in the moat at the base of the NEB (left side):
Hiking the lower NEB:
Simuling the upper NEB along with other 8 people (hello Forbidden west ridge):
Plenty of snow on route:
Obviously, everyone wants to bivvy on the summit but the summit does not take 10 people (6 at most), so we chose to bivvy below the Black Tooth:
On the summit next morning:
Descending SW couloir was pleasant and way more solid than I expected. Bedayan couloir, on the other side, another descent option, leaves much to be desired. I almost threw up when I looked down that thing from the summit.
Looking back on the south side of Goode:
The crux of the descent was finding the “trail” on the “timbered ridge” to get down to Park Creek trail.
Don’t try to cross-country here – that sucked a big time. We got lucky and picked up the faint trail again in the meadow to the skiers right of the downfall.
400 mg of caffeine and 20 mile back to the car followed.
Still alive at the South Fork. Bridge creek is civilized here and has a bridge for a change:
My Gooded out feet at the car next morning:
Gear Notes:
Light alpine rack to #2 and a 60 m half rope
Approach Notes:
35 miles total
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I used LS Trango Extreme Evo Light GTX boots and stainless steel Sabertooths (dual horizontal front points) and was very happy with that combination for the ice part.
As we could not pass through the main shrund below the Chrystal glacier and went through the chute to the right instead, we took the crampons off for a few rock pitches we climbed there, it was way faster that way.
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I used Scarpa Crux approach shoes on NEB while my partner's footwear choice was more elaborate:
Plus Alu crampons and one ice tool in hand for crossing Goode gl. Have fun.
I probably should post a TR as well when I get time.
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I had to fertilize the Stuart range soil with a liter of fresh erythrocytes...
Geoff's truck has a weird clutch - it is why he advised me not to use it much - I stalled only once over the 1.5 mile stretch.
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It is what sport climbers do - they wear tights and don't carry packs.
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I just returned a pair of Patagonia Simple Guide Pants that began disintegrating after my first trip in them.
You have to look for the pants that are marketed as J-burg proof.
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Nice, Ivan.
Yocum does look good. You should have continued further
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Possibly, but I hear someone was getting fairly soaked 6 pitches up on the Half Dome at that exact moment?
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Did you contact Black Diamond about the breakage?
Yes, and they were trying to sell me a trigger replacement kit ($15) plus shipping. Seriously? Would I ever use C3s again - the answer is obvious.
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Neither for me.
Broke two C3s in falls and got rid of them. Shitty construction.
Now I have switched to alienes and Totem cams. What a difference.
FS: Maxim Equinox dry single 10.2 mm x 60 m rope
in The Yard Sale
Posted
Selling a new, dry-treated New England Maxim Equinox single rope, white-green, 10.2 mm x 60 m. No packaging.
Production year: 2013
MSRP $140, asking $90.