Pete04

Not sure if there are any Enormocast listeners out there, but I'm pretty sure there are some Colin Haley fans on here. So, if you're interested he's the subject of the most recent Enormocast. http://enormocast.com/

That's fair feedback - thank you. I'll also take best offer if it's good, but if I can't get in the ballpark of what I paid for them I'll probably just sell them to a friend for way cheap or just purchase a pair of compatible boots rather than taking a loss. (I have to buy new crampons to fix a compatibility problem between these and my La Sportiva Trango S - if I have to take $100+ loss then I might just buy true ice boots rather than make do with what I have).

... bummer. They're now up on Yard Sale

BD Cyborg crampons. Worn once. They go for $200 on Backcountry.com or Blackdiamond.com. 180?

It sounds like you understood the question, but if I can buy the BD Cyborg with either type (Pro or Clip) I assumed I should be able to switch the type myself. Maybe it's not as simple as switching the toe basket, but hopefully I can perhaps buy a conversion kit or something...

I want to convert my BD Cyborg with Pro Straps to Clip Straps because my boots don't have the proper toe. Does anyone know how to transfer the straps from one set of crampons to another? I have a general mountaineering BD crampon that I'd like to cannabilize for its standard clip strap.

Interesting, thanks. I never even thought of leaving a PAS girth hitched to one point as that would obviously create wear, but I guess I could see folks doing that. I would think that girth hitching through both tie in points would weaken the dyneema/PAS/etc; but, I've got 0 evidence for that so I'll defer to your 50% number. As you pointed out 50% of 22kN is still pretty darn good and as long as you don't take a fall on the static dyneema/PAS/etc (which could be catastrophic) it probably won't result in failure.

I wanted to add a safety note to this thread in case anyone were to stumble across it. Folding over a 1/2 rope and using it as a single is NOT advisable. Unless... you were to clip the pieces separately. Half ropes should not be clipped together because the impact force could pull or break gear. Only twins should be clipped together. For the curious amongst us, reference Layton's Climbing Faster, Stronger, Healthier page 447.

Reading the fine print of my new harness (Arc'teryx AR 395a), I read a warning not to girth hitch anything to the belay loop because it can focus abrasion on a single location. Huh? Does anyone have any insight into why Arc'teryx would give this instruction as girth hitching seems pretty common if not fundamental whether girth hitching a PAS or dyneema. Is it just legal cya or is there something to that guidance?

Freedome of the Hills is "the Bible" of mountaineering, but it's kind of like a children's Bible. Good pictures and you get the point, but if you want to get serious about it you'll be left wanting more. I guess I just look at my bookcase and FotH is surrounding by other books that cover the same topics in more depth. If you're looking to save money, I'd start with skipping FotH. I'd recommend Michael Layton's Climbing Beyond the Basics as an overview book that isn't too broad to be useful. I took a trad anchors class at J Tree that was great https://www.joshuatreerockclimbing.com/sem4.html. I also have a friend who's an single-pitch rock instructor in Northern California. If you're interested, I'll send you his info. My crevasse rescue class with Rainier Mountaineering was great. My "Mountaineering Class" with RMI was a waste of time and money. All classes are good, but specific well-tailored classes are well worth the money. In Cali, there are some great resources. Sierra Mountain Guides is a fantastic company based out of Bishop. Classes may seem expensive, but the amount you'll learn (especially if you prepare beforehand) is fantastic. Also, you'll be trusting your life to your skills - probably worth the extra few $100 bucks

RTHo, Climbing Beyond the Basics has everything! Forget Freedom of the Hills. If I could do it all over again I would do these things in this order. - Take an anchors class preferably trad anchors. - Take a crevasse rescue class. Read Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue - Take an avy class. Read Staying Alive in Avalanche Terrain - Find internet partners who are officially experienced (guides, ski patrol, etc) and safe and pick their brains. - Get a puffy and always take it with you. That's your get out of jail free card when you screw up and get stuck out all night, which you will. If you ever want to climb in the Tahoe or Yosemite area, send me a PM.

Awesome story - thanks!

I caught this video today and it left me wanting more. Skagit Alpinism hasn't been updated in a while, so does has anyone here have any details/news?

The Dawn Wall ascent was beyond awesome - don't get me wrong. I was just a little surprised to see it on my BBC App this morning and then hear about it on NPR on the commute home. That's what's hard to understand - not the validity of the praise due Caldwell. ScaredSilly, thanks for the history lesson. There was a conspicuous lack of "first" in the article.

http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/the-current/events-expeditions/Lonnie-Dupre-Denali-Ascent-Mountaineering-History-.html The FFA of the Dawn Wall is pretty damn amazing although I don't understand (but enjoy) the media attention. However, Dupre's climb is arguably a more incomprehensible feat than Caldwell & Jorgensen's, to me at least. I was pretty speechless when I came across this headline this morning.

Can A Tarp Outperform A Tent In Extreme Weather? Gizmodo article

I had just watched this video this morning and was thinking to myself that I need to start following this guy's adventures. Condolences to all family and friends...

Except that is not the permit fee - we do not know except that is maximum amount proposed. It could be $15 … $15 would certainly be less onerous and more palatable...

I recently purchased a beautiful photograph directly from a photagrapher displaying his work at a local independent coffee shop. I wonder how a $1500 permit would have affected his business. With the median national income at $51k/yr , a $1500 permit is equivalent to roughly 1 week of work. Is this worth it? That's a tough one, but I'll take a shot: Let's say that I'm an out of work entrepreneur minded fellow with an eye for photographs and nature. I pay the $1500 with money borrowed from a friend b/c a bank wouldn't give me a loan despite record profits that quarter. Since I'm now out of money, I download a pirated copy of Photoshop. I'm arrested for software piracy, take out a loan to fight the case, become indebted. With my criminal record, I can't get a job so I take out a school loan and attend college. Four years later, mired in debt and dealing with a minor chemical dependency that I acquired in college I get an entry level job at a green energy firm and it collapses because its uncompetitive despite significant subsidies. After months of unemployment, I have to take a job with Big Energy Co. because they're hiring; unfortunately, my job is to take photographs of dilapidated houses in the woods and un-inspected backcountry huts so Big Energy Co. can pursue eminent domain cases against these rural properties. I'd rather have just been able to take photographs and sell them at market price to a consenting consumer. I'm going to go back to watching amazing, free, commercial movies.

If you're in the Sacramento area and you're getting a new bag (or pad) for the winter, Christmas, or just b/c you like new gear, I'd be happy to come pick up your no longer used bag and give it to the local homeless folks. Likewise, if you just have an extra bag/pad that you no longer use I'd be happy to distribute it to some of the local urban bivy-ers. Thanks!!

Has anyone been on the north side in the last week or two?

thanks. I'll use it but not at any dangerous crux, as a first piece, etc. Before I climb, I'll discuss who's going to buy what if a piece gets stuck. My rule is if you place it you buy it. That way if I overcam the heck out of one of my cams my partner's not out $60 and there can't be any hard feelings.

Yesterday my buddy managed to extricate an old, stuck BD C4 #1 cam from a climb we were on. Later in the day, he coincidently bypassed my BD C4 #1 I had placed but later unclipped to ease rope drag. Thinking it wasn't mine he shook it once or twice and moved on. What is the consensus on using found cams? I would never use webbing or the like, but a cam seems like a mechanical device that is good until it shows cracks. Am I being stupid, cheap, or all of the above? Along those lines, there is a perfectly good cam on the first pitch of The Farce at Lover's Leap in Tahoe. It's there for anyone who wants it.