Alpinsanity

They are mine! All mine!

Any routes you are pioneering are much easier to be cleaned when wet. Cock push-ups? One is all you need.

We were about 2/3 of the way up JPG, when the rock showers commenced. I think it topped out at somewhere around 80 degrees that day. Personally, I would not want to cram the entire outing into a one day push. Jefferson Park itself is absolutely gorgeous, and has great spots to camp, if you don't want to haul all you gear up onto the moraine. Might as well give yourself some time to relax and enjoy the scenery. You could wake around 2:30am and easily get to the summit block around dawn. No problem. Awesome photo ops from Jefferson Park of the entire mountain.

A friend and I climbed the JPG Route in late July, and there was a ton of rockfall coming off the summit. We left early, but as soon as the sun came out it was on. Always looking up the whole time to avoid rocks. Thankfully nothing too large. We had to climb down into the bergschrund and back up the other side in order to access the summit block. Very interesting. I would suggest getting past the bergschrund just as the sun comes up. We descended via the Whitewater Glacier, and it was really straightforward. I can't compare it to any other descent route, since it's the only one I've taken. It took us 3 days in and out, and that was plenty of time. Hope this helps some.

I am an 8.5 to 9 depending on the shoe. Sounds like these might just fit perfect. Check your PM's.

What is the exact U.S. equivelant of a 43? What U.S. size are you, and were they too large or small? I think I remember reading that you want to size up on these boots. Though, I am not sure.

You could always hit up Little Tahoma as well. Fun route.

Unicorn or Pinnacle Peak in the Tattoosh Range. Cowlitz Chimneys. (Middle Chimney) Governor's Peak. (Governor's Ridge) All within park boundaries. Or, Fife's Peaks, just north of Chinook Pass.

You can't "spoon" without a bivy.

Climbing up, and boarding down Chair Peak tomorrow morning. If anyone wants to join me, I will be at the Snow Lake trailhead at 6:30am. Or, PM me tonight.

I've sent a few 5.9 crag routes in La Sportiva Makalu's. Just for fun.

Stuart's North Ridge can be done in boots. I don't know if I would want to climb the Great Gendarme without rock shoes though. I personally try to climb in boots whenever possible. Mainly, so I don't have to climb with boots in my pack. I think anything harder than 5.8 probably warrants rock shoes, but it all depends on what you are comfortable with. The Garmont Vetta Plus looks really cool. I am thinking about looking into a pair. Could be a really happy medium.

The West Ridge can easily be climbed in boots. I wouldn't bother packing rock shoes. Lighter and Faster = Better Have fun!

McClellans Butte is a nice quick one as well. Mt.Thompson, or many of the other Snoqualmie Pass peaks can be done in a day also. Thompson's east ridge can be done alone, the view kicks ass, but it's about 15 miles round trip. Well worth it if you go light.