powdherb

Trip: Chamonix, FR - Voie Pellissier Date: 1/31/2011 Trip Report: Tom promised to show me some mixed climbing that everyone's talking about. My fingers got really cold. It beats 10k of icy moguls though. Starting up the bottom pitch. Trying to figure out these sharp toolz. It turns out that it's quite fun. Some nice sticky ice (M5?) in the gully, finished with some 5.9 rock crux. Now it's getting more real. Beautiful alpine granite with excellent gear. Did I mention it was cold? It was. Pulling the crux on the 5th pitch. Gervasutti, looking dry. Jaeger (the line to the looker's right) had tracks on it from a certain mentally-ill swede. Freeride alpinism. Hauling-ass back to the train. We made it by about 2 minutes. Missing it would have meant certain death on the treacherous trail du bois.

The winds are such win. Good effort in a good area. Damn, its windy up there.

Beautiful trip. Really awesome terrain.

Trip: Les Grands Charmoz - Pilier Cordier Date: 7/17/2010 Trip Report: This weekend my friend Tom proposed to me to climb the Walker Spur on the Grandes Jorasses. Knowing how much Compté and Reblochon I've eaten lately I knew it was a foul idea. Tom insisted, so I told him that if really wanted to epic with me, we could do it elsewhere. Because Tom only climbs routes with 'Grands' or 'Grandes' in the name, we decided to climb the epic classic Pilier Cordier on the Grands Charmoz, one of the largest and most beautiful of Chamonix's Aiguilles. We planned on about 30-45 min a pitch for 20-24 pitches. This seemed logical. We set up midday thursday for the Plan above chamonix and set our bivy. After some afternoon cragging, we returned to find our bivy inundated by the afternoon snow melt. Sweet. We set the alarm for 4am the next morning and headed up the Nantillion Glacier in our tennis shoes and ski poles after eating some chili-con-carne/Ratatouille (highly recommended). Tom decided to spice things up so he left the topo in a crevasse somewhere. We had only this mental image: View of the Grepon and Plan from camp. Charmoz as seen from camp, the peak on the left. Beautiful Chamonix Granite. View towards the Peigne and Midi. West towards lake Leman. Midi + Mont Blanc Anyway back to climbing: Tom leading some easy but nice slab traverse. Tom seconding after an easy crack system that reminded me of Diedre at Squamish. Tom on a wicked corner. The one pitch we could simul climb consisted of easy but somewhat loose rock before transitioning onto the upper headwall. The granite on the upper head wall was immaculate. Incredible featured faces leading to finger crack traverses, overhanging corners and hand cracks. Golden alpine granite, split by a moderate off-width (5.9+ish) Tom at the top-out right before the weather started to go tres mauvais. Tom executing an epic summit dump. Looking down the North face to the Mer de Glace, some 3500 feet below. The view towards the Grepon. Wow time flies when you're having fun...it was 6pm or so when we topped out. No problem, just a few (18) rappels to get down. Just as we began our first rappel a massive storm arrived bringing torrential rain, thick fog, sleet, snow, and hail to our already hasty descent. As my fingers froze, I foolishy fumbled my belay device into the abyss. Relying on a Munter abseil the route, I nicely mangled Tom's new ropes and twisted them up into tangle after tangle. Freezing and less-than-stoked we made our long, long, long descent to our bivy in 8 hours in the complete dark. Who said alpine climbing had to be fun? After we finally reached the glacier, we had a nice glissade session in our tennis shoes on white glacier ice and witnessed/heard some large rock falls onto the Natillion Glacier. Reassuring. Exhausted, shivering, and starving, we were excited to return to our soaked sleeping bags and try and make our way back to Chamonix which involved 2-3 hours of downhill trail, and about 4k vertical feet. We decided to bivy at the camp because it would be light in less than 3 hours. In my sleeping bag I placed a space blanket which did slightly less than nothing to keep me warm. Other than that, things are going great. Today we ate combined 100,000 calories in pastries and I had Tom power wash me in his backyard because I needed more punishment. I think I'm going to spend the next few days eating bananas and sitting by the pool. Applying sunscreen. Lots of it. Gear Notes: Carbs. Lots. Approach Notes: Tennis shoes. Ski poles.

Very good. Reed likes to freeride the gnar. Liz needs no help finding gnar. She might take you along if you ask nicely.

Good way to not waste energy. I want a split board. Oh and some ancient tits. No seriously.

Trip: Le Grand Capucin - Voie des Suisses Date: 6/24/2010 Trip Report: The Grand Capucin is a subsidiary peak of Mont Blanc du Tacul. It has an irresistable charm that calls to any climber in the vicinity. It must be climbed. We spent two nights up in the Cirque Maudite. We brought a tent in order to avoid the imminent bordel that would be found in all the nearby refuges. It was amazing, we actually slept. The first day was spent cragging on some cliffs near the Aiguille du Midi to acclimatize and get our shit together. Dave and I had never climbed rock together. We needed to work his unintelligible British quacking into proper climbing speak. The original plan was to go walk down the Vallee Blanche and hit the envers, because the Montenvers access train was closed. this was a stupid idea for many reasons. In other news: I love alpine granite cragging. Then as we approached The Spot, I saw it: throbbing in the sunlight, calling me. The campsite was impeccable. Le Dent du Géant Sunrise the next day was beautiful. Le Mont Blanc Our goal was to climb the Voie Suisse. It is the most practical way up this completely overhanging tower of gnar. When we got the bottom it looked like it was going to be a long day. The route follows some 5.8-5.9 ledges then goes into some 5.9-5.10 cracks. After that it goes into a 5.11+ roof with some points of aid to pull on and finally some icy 5.8 to the summit. We met an amicable Aussie/British team. They thought I would like the cracks. p1 Just after a pitch of some 5.10, Dave finishes a nice 5.9 handcrack. We swapped the beginning leads, then switched to block leads up higher. Some alpine Juice. Just under the 10c/A0 roof. The aid consisted of 20m of 20 year old tattered bristles hanging off a few century-old loose pins. Even French-freeing it was hard. The Tour Ronde with the Trident du Tacul in the foreground. P8. Group photo. I got these sweet Prada shades off an immigrant on the beach in Italy. No wonder I'm now permanently snowblinded. P9. A French team started up the route and caught up to us just in time to get pummeled by the collapsing summit mushroom. Did I mention the route is steep? Team A dropped some gear off the crux and I watched it land on the glacier 1500 feet below. We turned around after the crux due to the showers of summit blocs that had already nearly killed us twice. The last pitch was covered in ice and fail. The challenges were surmounted, so we Maestri'd it. Striking Pillars. While on the way down, I saw these guys stoked out on top of the Trident. I tossed them a snickers. We spent the night in our tents and witnessed another epic sunset and incredible light show in this magical zone. Now for some chicken curry. Gear Notes: Gauffres (French Waffles, well belgian probably) Approach Notes: Slogging.

Trip: From Cezanne to Cassis to Icy Chamonix... - Several Date: 6/18/2010 Trip Report: This is a combination of two TRs I posted in the Ski Sickness Sanitarium. I think it does it more justice to post them on a climbing forum.... The week started with some trundling near the home of artist Cezanne in order safely secure the "paysages de Cezanne" In a quest to combine some of my favorite things: pizza, beach babes, and climbing I though it would be a good idea to go to Italy, where it came from. Conveniently, my cousin was forecasted to get married in southern Italy, where some of my Italian family lives. The south of Italy is glorious, not quite on pace with the chaos of the North, but still quite chic and sophisticated in its own way. The beaches down there are just stupid. Huge limestone cliffs with caves and pristine turquoise waters shimmering below compose the backdrop for you as you sit at a cafe eating your 3 Euro wood-fired pizza and snacking on vine-ripened Italian tomatoes. The area is also famous for its take on the famous french dessert called La Profiterole, which is small crispy fried bread balls filled with ice cream and then covered in dark chocolate and allowed to cool. Anyway, on the way down we stopped on the Italian Riviera in a town called Levanto, which was quite pleasant. This town is near Cinque Terre, but not quite part of it. After this stopover and beaching, we continued down to the wedding, where I could literally write pages about the food and beaches, but I won't waste your time. You can just look at the pictures. We were enjoying it. Then we headed south to check out some nice beaches and acquire some rays. The reason the food is so good in Italy is because stuff just grows. Look a nice bouquet. Liz gets wet. After like 10 days of eating and beaching, it was time to burn some mozzarella, so we went to another beach on our way back called Finale Ligure, which just happens to be an epicenter of extreme in northwestern Italy. Crazy good limestone everywhere, with awesome fins and cracks galore. We met up with our detachment of Swedish friends from Cham: Michelle and Amanda. They ended up camping in various illegal beaches and parking lots for like two weeks before they finally got sick of being kicked out of their squat at 6am everyday. Finale is real nice. Babe Squad. We enjoy the beach at night too. Girls; they like ice cream. But sometimes they drink too much wine after. The next day we wanted to climb some psicobloc, but there was a pesky ledge here that would break your head. The Germans wanted to get naked and get wet. The scenery helps. We were having too much fun, we had to go back to Cham and find a suffer bivy ASAP! My first goal was to climb the fabled Rebuffat route, which consists of 7-9 pitches of amazing alpine granite that accessed by a ten minute walk from the midi cablecar and ends at the summit. Does that look like something that interests you? Ross and I were able to enjoy the route with perfect temps and no other people on the route. It was tres agreable. We took a steep variation to the right which I think was the end of the Contamine route. Some nice hard overhanging cracks and beautiful corners. Ross rode it. We arrived at the top station just in time for some lunch. I called up liz and she came up with some sandwiches and spandex and wine. We feasted then rapped back down and climbed the last 3 pitches again. The whole concept was pretty ridiculous. Look at that. The finish is a sporty pitch. A bit spicy. The day before Liz did the cosmique arete with Ross while I was working. She had to repeatedly hold the the French army boyz' hands. A variation that lead to some nice alpine cragging. I think that's about it. In order prepare for the day ahead we drove 150 miles per hour to the coast to climb 10 pitches at 4:30 in morning so we would be back in time to take a 2 hour nap at lunch at noon. Chef Ivan, Au bord. This route put up recently (2006 I think) in the Cap Canaille area is ten pitches of a variety, finishing in some crazy conglomerate. Me on tete on one of the final pitches. THEN IT RAINED FOR 3 WEEKS. In order to mourn my girlfriends departure, we decided to go to Les Calanques where I took a 50 foot whipper and woke up floating in ten inches of water. Finally this morning it cleared for 15 minutes so Tom and I decided to climb the Chere Goulotte on the Tacul Triangle. Is there really a difference in 85 degree ice and 90 degree ice? Gear Notes: 500 Quickdraws, peanut butter, bullets. Approach Notes: Watch out for shit in Italy. Scorpions in Aix.

Trip: Aiguille D'Argentiere, Chamonix, France - Glacier du Milieu Date: 5/9/2010 Trip Report: This is a cross post from the Ski Sickness Sanatorium because no one reads ski postings anymore. Amazing conditions but fleeting clear weather has made us work around mother nature's schedule. Today (and the previous 10 days) have been rather nice in the morning but cool and snowy in the early-mid afternoon. Today was no exception. We caught first bin on the last day of the season at Grands Montets and made our way over to the base of the climb. I was excited to be able to get the snow good top to bottom because of a high overcast and rather cool conditions. Waves of snow showers punctuated the day, but we continued because they seemed rather benign. Here's an older picture I took that ironically is the first image that I found on google image search for 'Milieu Glacier" and was on drewtabke.com Another reason we went up was to check out the condition of some of the big boys: They're ready. I'm not. The Argentiere Glacier. Heading up with Dave and Liz. The upper headwall is just rad enough (300m ~45) but not too rad as to summon the devil ice from the Glacier Rond. The ridge to the summit with Liz. I remember being near the brink of death near here my first time. Maybe thats because we started in the valley. Skiing from the Summit. The snow was agreeable. The upper face has a cool exposed feeling. Exiting the couloir. FREERIDE. Gear Notes: Gaufres Approach Notes: Par Grands Montets

Trip: TR: France: Le Dent de la Rancun and Barberine - Various Date: 4/27/2010 Trip Report: Hey guys, this is an Xpost from the new forum at skisickness.com, Ski Sickness Sanitarium. I thought some cascaders would appreciate this Darrington/Squamish type rock at Barberine. After pretty much everyone I know and myself have gotten nearly severely mangled/screwed/nearly killed in the mountains lately, I decided to give skiing it's time and focus on climbing for a little while. Besides, who wouldn't rather play in grassy meadows punctuated by massive walls of splitter granite and/or towering limestone pinnacles, while cruxing in nothing but a t-shirt and cigarette? A small trail leads your descent, you just focus on the task at hand. No ski boots, ski poles, crampons, one ice tool, two ice tools, hats, googles, two sets of gloves, avy beacon, shovel, probe, pack, skin problems, lines, seracs, crevasses, mank, crust, avalanches. No, just climbing. Dent de la Rancun I took the train to Clermont-Ferrand last weekend to visit a friend who I might potentially work for this summer (Ivan). He dominates the Dent and took me to this strange place in the Central Massif of France (relics of old volcanoes everywhere) where many old conduits provided cool grano-diorite climbing. This route was 3 pitches of 6something. Climbing in shorts in a t-shirt: tres agreable! Le Mont Dore ski area behind, nice 500+m chutes with fun cliff bands in the middle. And moving on to the Barberine: This gem is located just on the Franco-Suisse border and offers a hidden gem of granite-like wonders. Very well bolted and of superb quality. Most of the routes range from 5-10 pitches. It reminded me a lot of the apron in Squamish. Touchy friction down low but with overhanging bolted bomber shit up high. Yes please. The first 4 pitches we did were all quality slab, like this. All 6a. 5.10a or so in Imperial units (though felt easier). Mount White in the backround, probably killing someone. P4 I think. Liz is getting slabbed. Then when we got to the overhanging shit, she took the qds and showed me how to climb 6b+ (50m). It's like her 2nd lead ever. I need to put some rocks in her backpack or something. After that we climbed some really tough pitches and I didn't take the camera out because I was pumped-out. The route cruxes with a really tough pitch of 6c that was scary and somewhat slopey. Next time I'd like to lead it without crying. After that there's 2 pitches of juggy but steep 6b+ one of which liz lead, and then we swapped. The exit pitch is some weird blood-covered (srsly) double bouldering problem that felt like 6c, but I don't think was manditory. Overall, this place is the shit. Only 20 minutes from Cham but a world away. There's also a small garden of Eden at the bottom if you so desire. descenta ferrata. you wouldn't find this back home. stupid dolphins. The route goes up there somewhere. Somewhere left, near the streak. My hat is sick. Gear Notes: 14 Quickdraws. Chalk. Muscle Relaxant. Approach Notes: Attention aux vaches

Trip: Le Calanques, France (with some Skiing in Italy) - Morgiou, Sormiou, En Vau Date: 3/17/2010 Trip Report: This is a cross post from skisickness.com/post. I thought I would share some of the rock climbing with the cascade cadre. My friend from Hawaii (Jesse) planned a trip to visit us here in Chamonix a few months ago. With warm temperatures and below-average snow conditions we've resorted to drawing mythical creatures all day. (Artist: Liz) Donc, we thought it might be a good opportunity to grimper at Les Calanques: a spectacular limestone setting just east of Marseille and close to the beautiful coastal village of Cassis. Think deep limestone canyons emptying into the shimmering Mediterranean with phallic towers and cliffs everywhere that are generally well-bolted. Yeah, do want. But, before we took off we wanted Jesse to get a chance to experience the incredible skiing that the mountains here have to offer in order to contrast coastal tropical climbing paradise. The days before we took off we found some several week old pow on the Glacier du Mort and Col d'entreves off Helbronner in Italy. He was pleased. Hiking up from l'index. Liz shredding it right. Back up again. Liz negotiating the rocks below the Aiguille d'Entreves. This face is choice. Jesse, feeling ready after a few years in a nice tropical island. Anyway, we got sick of that crap and decided to go here: We made some savage camping after searching for a bon spot for a few days. The night we came in we went to Sormiou and experienced a nice sun set after scrambling around the seacliffs. We then slept in a ditch on the side of the road in order to best prepare our daily getting-lost-in-Marseille routine. The village of Sormiou. Tom looking for some nice falaises. Tom's appetite for finding the deep water solo was soon whetted. We had fun and got krunk as we watched the sun set. The next day started off with some of the spectacular longer routes at Morgiou on the spectacular Cret Saint Michel and Polka. Tom warmed up with a spicy coupla' pitches of 6something and then later we cooled down with the classic beater route up the center of the face on Cret. Tom leading up the Polka Wall. The rock was amazing. Me seconding. The next day we spent some time beaching and searching for a good savage bivy. It wasn't hard to find one, really. We just had to open our eyes. We went to the epic postcard locale known as En Vau. There we found a nice sunny terrace and swam and eat 3 kilos of cheese each. Liz did a backflip. Tom made climb. Jesse napped. I relaxed. Tom sending it. That night, Liz and Tom climbed the epic classic on the Siren while Jesse and I bailed because we were starting the route at 6pm and it was 5 pitches (turns out we did the beater route in like an hour next day). After that, we commenced our Anglo-Deutsch-American pow-wow. It was really multilateral. The next morning Jesse and I started up the Sirene climbing the Liautard (4c) to get Jesse back rad while Liz and Tom climbed the Super Sirene (6a+) the night before and the Pilier Gauche de la Passerelle (6a+) the next morning. Jesse and I starting up the Sirene. Liz and Tom about to top on the Piliar Gauche. Wow. "This ain't half bad" After we both reconvened for some cheese and no water, Tom and I wanted to climb the amazing-looking Piliar Droit du Couloir du Milieu (6b). I had fun leading the first pitch and enjoyed the very technical and delicate climbing of the upper pitches which Tom lead. We both agreed that we had climbed some of the best "sport" routes of our lives that day. Me heading up the first pitch. Me looking down from the first belay. Goddamn I like climbing in shorts and a t-shirt. The sea cliffs off the back of the Plateau de Castleviel are stupidly amazing. They even built a toilet. And breathe. Okay. Gear Notes: 6 bottles of wine 100 quick draws Water

I sucked so bad at climbing there, it almost made me want to quit skiing. Great trip. It was good having you guys out.

french climbing fashion Better than Seattle climbing "fashion"

Killer. How was the s. butt of pingora? I'm going in there on Wednesday to do that and Wolf's head. Might head up north and get Gannett. Winds are just beyond quality.

Sounds fun. Too bad the Coleman headwall is gone...

Trip: Bear Creek Spire, CA - North Arete III 5.8 Date: 7/15/2009 Trip Report: Though Bear Creek Spire is an awesome peak, I would hesitate to call it a spire. It is surrounded on all sides by massive rock faces except the southeast side which is a chossy gully (same Ulrich's choss gully on Mt. Stuart?) to 5th class pitch at the end of the route. Though our plans simply called for a scramble up the North East Ridge with a 5th class finish, upon arrival to Mosquito Flat (which really lives up to its name) I simply couldn't not climb the throbbing pillar that was located at the head of the valley, all red and sticky with alpenglow. Though our gear was totally insufficient, I ripped the topo out of the pages of the equally worthless Moyner book (I don't really give a shit about climbing history, just give me a decent fucking topo and approach directions) and decided to sleep on it. The approach up the "glacier" went smoothly and we were on route at about 6:15. The climbing was quick and good although frighteningly loose in many spots. Though I was sure I was on route, I almost pulled several huge loose flakes down. Climbing progress well and we pitched out all the pitches due to the difficulty of locating the supposed 4th class bypasses which seemed all quite off route. During the climb, we clung mostly the ridge crest where we saw the highest-quality safest rock (though more difficult climbing). The crux was an awkward off-width over huge exposure with some critical holds very loose. Fin Grabs with little pro up higher. After that the climbing was 4-5 pitches of solid mid-5th class climbing to the summit. The descent was was long and uneventful except for when I tomahawked down the snowfield while trying to make huge running plunge steps down the glacier. Good thing we climbed with an ice axe the whole time. It was a great toothpick. We were back at our tent at 8:30pm. Car at 10:30. Mammoth Lakes McDonalds 10:59pm. Tahoe City: 3:15am. Overall the route had several amazing qualities; exposure, length, and fun. I counted 11 pitches total. I would compare it closely to the North Ridge of Mt. Stuart in Washington minus the heinous approach (We parked our car at 10,200 feet at Mosquito Flat). A+++++ would RECOMMEND again Nice Lake. There it is. I need it. That's bigger. I'm scared now. Glacieretta Pitch 2. The 5.8 hand crack on pitch one got me nice. Pitch 3? Le Gendarmerie. Where's all the drunk Brits? Above a low 5th section with tricky route finding. End of the sidewalk. Sierra Granites. The high plateau after descending the 3rd class gully. Marz? The route and descent from the col that I tomahawked down. Gear Notes: A set and a half of Metolius stoppers Alienheads (3) up to an inch Metolius 1" and 1.75" and a 4" (4 is very useful on this route) 15 sport draws no ice axe unless you plan on spending the night on the route Approach Notes: For Christ's sake bring bug spray

There is amazing rock up there. There's some nontechnical scrambles up thompson peak and some nice alpine ice. I really want to get on some of this rock...anyone?

Trip: Thompson and Powell Spires, Evolution Range, CA - Date: 6/18/2009 Trip Report: This is a crosspost from TGR. After moving to California almost a year ago and failing to complete anything worthwhile in my life, I decided I wouldn't make the same mistake this time around. Moving to a place with a social scene as lame as Tahoe's has made my physical and mental health skyrocket to a point not seen since grade school. The last few days have been spent trying to scrounge up someone or something to come on this mission to the Evolution Range and coming up with nothing besides some condoms and pocket lint. Both equally worthless in this context. I made the ridiculous drive down the US 395 from Tahoe City which is ruthlessly inefficient 9 days a week (reminiscent of a European grocery store). When I arrived in Bishop, I knew I was in for some radness. The White Mountains were absolutely spackled in fresh snow and they remained that way through when I left. They must have gotten several feet of snow. I drove up to Lake Sabrina and made my up to my camp at 10,500 near some lakes the names of which I can't recall. Maybe donkey. There was a lot of snow still, and I was getting pumped for the next day. I set my alarm for 430 and made my way up to the upper basin with continuous skiing from about 11,000 feet (including a questionable summertime solo lake crossing). My initial objective was a nice couloir that was nestled back in Powell Spires (actually my initial objective was Mt Darwin, however it seemed quite snowless). However, intense early-morning sun caused a massive series of soft/wet slabs with the fresh snow that resulted in chest-deep post holing. I got about 200 feet up that route and traversed to the more protected aspect and made my way to Thompson-Powell col. I skied approximately 1900 vertical of pure freeride powder to immaculate corn. I jogged the whole way down with my and was on my way back Tahoe by 11:15. As a side note, I was skiing on the new Praxis Powder Jibs which are very, very rad. It was my first time doing pretty much anything in the Sierras and I had heard about this "Range of Light" bullshit, but srsly the light is really nice. Next time, do want a climbing rack and a much lighter pack. kthanks for listening. The White Moutainz. They are teh Whitez. I spy some lines. Mendel. The Range of Lite. My Zone It's getting nice out... Morning. I searched all over for the Thompson Glacier but couldn't find it. The Line. Thompson Powell Col from the Couloir. Looking wNW. That's big. My car is way the shit down there. White Mountains; they're still white. Dropping. Mono. Double. Gear Notes: Nutella Approach Notes: Easy, Quick, except 395.

I'm just kidding about the bears. I LOVE bears.

Trip: Yosemite and Carson Pass - Valley Meadow Frolick and Round Top Ski Date: 6/9/2009 Trip Report: Though this TR contains little if any climbing, I thought you guys might like to see some nice pictures and some late season skiing. If I'm wrong, feel free to ostracize me. This is a cross post from TGR but maybe you guys can answer my final question. I would really like to get back to that place with some competent climbers..because I'm not very. After moving to Tahoe a few weeks ago to make a summer wage and support my return to The Continent I have been touched by images of local mountains and distant gorges that reputedly contain magnificent granite climbing and overall meadow-skipping goodness. The other day my detachment and I went to yosemite to sample some wine and observe some big walls. That place is nice. After 5 days of piss-poor weather I headed to carson pass to try out my new Praxis skis. A large carnivore right before it attacked my bullets. Holy damn The next day I just HAD to go up there and check that thing out. Liz gets in the THE SHOT There are so many perches in Yosemite. I think someone called the police on me here. Big Wallz. I sought this meadow for a evening frolick. It delivered. Then we went to Glacier Point for some Wine-Tasting. I threw up. A couple days later I went in search of some radness to slide down. Carson Pass was the closest thing I could find. Fresh snow provided a smooth and somewhat creamy surface. I skied the couloir to the lookers left on this mountain. Round Top? When I got down I realized that the central couloir went all the way to the top. From where I was standing it looked like it was blocked about half way. California is nice. But answer me this: why does a pizza cost 20 fucking dollars wherever you go in this state? Gear Notes: .22 Caliber Rifle to scare bears and Long Range (LR) Ammo 2 x .75L Foxbrook (bottles) 2007 Vintage Toilet Paper Airsick Bags

Trip: Climbing Les Calanques, Provençe, France - Date: 4/21/2009 Trip Report: After spending the last 5 months in France, I needed something to cap off my visit with something extraordinarily notskiing. I sought the region of France known as Provençe in the area near Marseille on the Cøte d'Azur. I searched for a place that would offer me utter disconnection from the dangerously anglofied inner-reaches of the alps. This place is known as Les Calanques, or The Channels in American. Les Calanques is a region of limestone cliffs known for it's complex beauty and proximity to Marseille. You can be in the depths of the calanques in literally 15 minutes from downtown Marseille, the second largest city in France. The place offers hundreds of sport routes ranging up to some of the hardest and most progressive cave-roof climbing in Europe. In addition, the place has insane psicobloc or deep water soloing. Upon arrival, temperatures were in the mid 60s and a large swell was breaking as a result of the approaching storm. The region lies in a rain shadow of the Pyrenees and is relatively arid. This place is the stomping grounds of legends like Gaston Rébuffat. It does not suck. After a few kilometer hike in we were rewarded with unrelenting beauty; the place has hundreds of towers, caves, coves, cliffs, bluffs... It's literally a playground. We spent much of the first day exploring and just laying on the beach, something that was much needed. The following days were characterized by getting absolutely hammered on the beach while enjoying some leisure sport climbing and beach lounging. I really like climbing drunk. Near the beach. I think I'll do that from now on. Now I'm sitting in Chicago where the weather is nothing short of heinous. Why would you go somewhere that's not there? Bienvenue a France. Wow. What the fuck is going on here? Downtown Cassis. Note: do not camp at Camping Le Cigales. Just camp illegally on the most epic bivouac ledge you can find. No one will give a shit. This beach allows access to many multi-pitch climbs that are only accessible by boat. This boat had a bunch of climbers on it. Looking towards Marseille. The bivy ledge. Yes, it was as bad as it looks. Me spying on some chicks cleansing in the early morning sun. Elisa, getting Psicho. A multi pitch ridge arrete near Marseille. It was near this ugly port. Yeah. I prefer this place. Gear Notes: 3 bottles of Chardonnay. 1 bottle of burgundy. No water. 300 quick draws. 10 kilos of Reblochon cheese. 1 carton of American cigarettes. Approach Notes: Drive very fast on gravelly roads. Preferably intoxicated and with a scarf on. Cigarettes are highly recommended.

Well, looks like you guys totally screwed that one up. No seriously though, that's some serious relief. I always thought peaks in the coast range were, like only 2500 feet tall. Pretty colours.

Nice. We did it about last year this time and it looks way different in your photos. Maybe it's missing a 200 inch base. Good effort though. Very cool line.

Good ski. Some fall line in there.

Trip: Southern Yosemite - many Date: 10/12/2008 Trip Report: Southern Yosemite provides the motivated climber with endless amazingly featured granite domes with dozens of sport-bolted and trad routes. My friend Matt Shutz and I went the the area this weekend to investigate some of his unfinished routes including a nice 11a ca. 150 meter route that he finished on Sat in a nice blizzard. In addition, we went to an area that provided dozes of sport-bolted routes up an amazing dome. There were about half a dozen routes ranging from 10b up to 13a? I believe. Most of the routes are 60m meters in length and offer unparalleled sport climbing on huge, steep, and clean granite faces. We finished the day by climbing the first pitch up this 11 b/c put up by Grahm. It's crazy to climb a full 60 meters of sustained hard climbing. It's like doing a 3-pitch route in one pitch. Matt finishing his project. It's interesting climbing 11a with his goddamn 40 lb bosch drill set-up when you're following. About 400 feet off the deck it began to snow. Hard. It was so warm. The route follows the right facing corner then up a central black streak. Day 2: The Dome. Grahm warming up. Cooking now. Jeff on the 11b/c I finished with.