Braydon

What are some 5.9 and under routes with bolted belays at Darrington?

Thanks for the advice Matt. I understand your point but ,for me at least, climbs with bolted belays seem to go faster and offer easier (and cheaper) retreat if something should go wrong. He's competent at gear placements but I think I should spend a little more time with him about building and equalizing multi-directional gear anchors. With bolted belays you just pull out your Quad and start belaying.

I have a friend who is just getting into trad leading and I am looking for some good climbs for us to start swapping leads on. Bolted belays are great because they can take off some of the stress for a beggining trad leader. Any ideas? I know that Squamish has some good ones on the Apron but most of those routes can be pretty runout at times. I heard Ultimate Everything is fun. What about Darrington? I haven't been to Darrington yet so I don't really know much about the climbing there. No mind boggling runouts though please.

wow, especially at 1am, route finding across the cowlitz would be an adventure.

i was climbing at croc in neverland at exit 38 yesterday and had some rockfall. i was climbing one of the routes and i grabbed a hold the size of a football the let go on me. i was holding it between my stomach and the wall and didn't really know what to do my belayer was a above me and i was only about 20ft off the ground so i made sure no one was around and let it got. there was really no where else to put it. you have to be careful in neverland. it's a fairly new area and still needs some more cleaning.

you probably already know this but you'll definatly have some problems navigating the crevasses...

Anybody been up or around there lately? Are the shrunds passable this time of year? What about that waterfall? How much ice should we expect this time of year (how many ice screws)? thanks!

whats the Priest-Coupe route? Any cc trip reports on it?

are there any alpine ice routes around chiliwack out this time of year? like matier...whats the ice route on that btw?

Also I could carpool up there if you need a ride from seattle area or somewhere along the way to split gas.

Marc Leclerc and I will be doing some climbing from the 13th-19th. Depending on the state of the pocket glacier we may give the NE buttress of slesse another go. If not we have a few backup plans. Since these are grade lV/V routes our parents don't want two fifteen yearolds climbing them by ourselves. We are looking for another team of two if anyone is interested just for that extra help if something goes wrong. pm us if interested

scree surfing...so thats what was causing all the rockfall!

stuart's cascadian couloir is a pretty fun one. hood's south side (calling it technical or not depends on your comfort level on snow). around the end of the season for that one though.

Thanks a lot guys. Are there any long sport climbs around us (other than IB)? It would take some pressure off of me than leading pitch after pitch of trad and maybe I could let him try out the sharp end. Maybe after he gets down the multipitch system...

Well it looks like we can go to Squamish after all. What are your favorite moderate, long climbs?

I took him out for a long weekend to get down the basics just a few days ago. It was him first time outdoors so he has not lead trad yet and isn't too familiar with anchor building and leading trad.

Thanks guys. Squamish is probably too out of the way though.

My older brother is starting to get into rock climbing and he is wanting to get on a multipitch route. Any ideas? He climbs solid 5.8 but is a little iffy on 5.9. Orbit, Safe Sex(darrington), R&D. Any other ideas? Btw does Dreamer have any serious runouts? I hate them. Alpine routes w/o glacier travel are fine too. Thanks

When you are following a pendulum, after you lower over and begin jugging again how do you retrieve the piece you pendulumed off? Or do you not?

I use 6mm...hold on! Steve House used used a 5mm on the Rupal face. I guess it depends on how much weight you want to carry.

Nice...

wow...that list will keep us busy... thanks!

Thanks! Any other route recommendations for the 5.10a and under climber? So far were doing Royal Arches, Fairview Dome, and Cathedral Peak as a warm-up.

I'll be spending a couple of weeks in Yosemite the summer and am wanting to do Royal Arches. I should be able to free the 5.10b traverse but I've heard Yosemite grades are pretty stiff so I may just use the fixed pendulum depending on how I feel. There's one problem though...I have no idea what that is. Can someone explain? Can a non-aid climber pick it up easily?

Thanks! Are the runouts protectable? Also, is the grade as soft as Exit 38 or as stiff as Index or somewhere in between, Leavenworth?