Braydon

The climber at the end there is my partner and I'm just out of sight. We were on the route too, but my hip was acting up so we ended up turning back - Sorry David Glad to see you guys had a successful trip. Congrats! Great pictures Sorry, Matt and David, despite the summit whiteout we didn't get any pictures of it like you asked because our only camera had run down the other side of the mountain already oh yeah!

I'm looking to get into some water ice this season and need some partners. i'm pretty new. my only real ice climb so far has been baker's north ridge. I have all the gear so if you ever want to take out a noob i'm a pretty good belay slave.

The climber at the end there is my partner and I'm just out of sight. We were on the route too, but my hip was acting up so we ended up turning back - Sorry David Glad to see you guys had a successful trip. Congrats! Great pictures Sorry, Matt and David, despite the summit whiteout we didn't get any pictures of it like you asked

i know you place screws at hip level but as you move up your old pick placements become at hip level. OMB has a good point though...

When you are placing your ice screws how far away do you want to place them from your tool placement or does it not matter? I haven't had this question answered for me in any books but it seems like the fracture lines from the tools will decrease the screws strength if you have it too close to a tool placement.

When you are placing your ice screws how far away do you want to place them from your tool placement or does it not matter? I haven't had this question answered for me in any books but it seems like the fracture lines from the tools will decrease the screws strength if you have it too close to a tool placement.

thats a great book.

oh yeah, now i remember. sunday's weather was pretty bad.

Trip: Yak Peak - Yak Check FAA(maybe) Date: 8/15/2008 Trip Report: FAA: First Adultless Ascent A little late I know. Alright so Marc kept on raving about how awesome this route (pitch 7 in particular) is so I was really eager to get on it. Marc's dad dropped us off at the trailhead at about 9 or so and we began hiking up to the base. We simuled the first two pitches and I began to lead the third pitch. I have small hands so it was more like off hands for me than perfect hand jams. Anyways, the pitch was a little runout just because it is the same size crack and being the runout wimp that I am, I let Marc have a go. He cruised it. Anyways up a little bit more and we reached evil pitch 6. Since we had alpine draws this time we were able to reduce rope drag a little. We had lunch before pitch 6 and discovered Marc's dad had somehow eaten some of his food. I gave him some of mine and we began going up. Pitch 7, is what gives routes a classic status. It starts out with a bomber underclimg traversing to the left which turns into a few feet of liebacking. You then walk across the flake you just underclimged and start up another one. You then pull an interesting roof and move up some slabby friction stuff. Pitch 8 was a neat little pitch as well having a hollow flake you traverse over looking 1500 feet down. We then went up a few more pitches until we were at the crux which Marc led. I tried a little at the crux but was tired and ended up french-freeing . We went up the 4th class slab and topped out after about 9 hours. A little slow but we took our time a had a little more relaxed pace. Anyways, we started the hike down and were making pretty good time until darkness came (no headlamps, just cellphones which didn't really help). We stumbled down nearly escaping injury a few times mistaking bushes for boulders and hopping onto them carelessly. We made it to the car to discover a surprisingly happy mom despite our late arrival. We got mcdonalds and then passed out. Despite being a little hard to protect and runout (for my standards) and a little loose at times this is all in all a great route which I'll probably return to soon (hopefully with less fear of runouts). Marc will post some pics later. Gear Notes: We had a double set of cams and a set of nuts but you probably could have gotten away with less if you wanted to. Approach Notes: Horrible. Extremely remote, at least a 30 minutes from the car.

yeah, one advantage to having 2 rope teams is one can take pictures while waiting for the others on the technical parts.

Nice tr Marc. I was just about to post it until I saw you already put one up.

yeah!!!

We need one more partner from Seattle area so I can get a ride We can split gas. I'm in Issaquah but could meet anywhere around there. Anyone else interested? PM me.

Heres some tips guys...... might help out with the vocabulary of our forum.... http://www.yarr.org.uk/talk/

Pikachu vs. Charzard PBJ vs. Ham n' Cheese Enchilada vs. Burrito OJ vs. Apple Juice Kevbone vs. Dru Sobo vs. Offwhite

I left these at the Jackson Visitor Center in Rainier NP. Anybody seen them? Thanks Braydon

What's this new ice route on Whitehorse? I haven't heard or it.

I haven't been climbing long enough to really have any but I know there has to be some funny ones out there.

But washington has the volcanoes!

Alright so were planning an ascent on the weekend of the 23rd. Anyone else interested?

Anyone been up there lately and know the conditions?

Anyone want to get on the north ridge anytime soon? I'm open anytime up to the 13th and from the 20th onward. I'm open to other ice routes as well (kautz glacier, etc.). PM me.

before we go or with us?

sounds kinda like how i learned how to climb...study it, practice it, study it some more, have someone evaluate it, and the best part - go out in the mountains and do it!

I want to climb Ultimate Everything but don't want to climb a deathwish route on the Apron. Are there any routes on it without serious runouts?