PeakDream

http://store.kodak.com/store/ekconsus/en_US/pd/PLAYSPORT_Video_Camera/productID.169976100 There is a coupon for it as well: http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/hot-deals/1002592/

Great advices! I can learn some of it too. Yea, I taught him to do the "A" frame instead of "X" frame from day one. I'll look at tracking from Will's book. I learned climbing from the monkey hang style from the classic "Ice World", very good but too slow! He got himself a pair of nomics and Sabretooth. The issue he has is he gets pumped out on WI-4s very quickly. I can't always tell from the top. Maybe he's gripping harder once he's on steep ice. Anyway, I passed along this thread to him and he might just post his progression this winter! Bastard is gonna climb three months of Banff and Cody! This is just for my own sake, I lead a WI-5, got wicked pump in my arms. Do you monkey hangs on "A" frame?

Now that ice season is over, my friend and I went drinking the other day and started talking about next season. He's applying back to engineering school so he has the whole winter off (Dec-Feb). He just started ice climbing with me this season. It took awhile for him to get used to climbing (he doesn't rock climb, but will start this season). He now follows WI-3/4 comfortably, just started leading WI-3 (15 total days on ice). He asked me how to become a WI-5 leader! Well, I don't lead WI-5. So I told him just go to Banff or Cody and climb for three months straight everyday. After that, he'll be ready for WI-5. Regardless of the outcome, I'm sure he'll have a ton of fun. I'm asking the wisemen here, is that sound advice? How long did it take you to become a WI-5 leader? Cheers!

One thing I don't like to the Ice 45L is the hood is not detachable, so climbing with it is sometimes a pain.

I didn't like the BD one. Anyone know where I can find OR version? I was gonna make my own but material cost is too high to justify it.

Black Diamond has the Ice ScrewUp bag that takes 6 ice screws. I don't feel like paying $20 for a canvas bag. I have heard people use some type of material that wrap around each ice screws. Just wondering what everyone is using.

Grivel rejects are still better than BD retards, by a long shot. I haven't tried BD's newer model tho.

Yea, I ended up not stretching it out at all. Seems a little bulky, but I'll test them out this weekend.

I feel like a retard right now. The Scotch 2228 tape says stretch the tape at least 3/4 of original width. WTF does that mean? Am I to stretch the tape by pull it wider?

Price?

Really? Hmm... I have to double check the tools again. They feel OK, but just feel cramp as in tight space, not forearm. My gloves are Kinco winter workgloves, not too thin and not too thick. My hands aren't big enough to have that problem I started leashless with the black diamond viper (orange one). I think I know what you talking about, but it just seems they are smaller than most of the tools out there. Just to be clear, it's not just the top to bottom of the grips, also how skinny the grips are compare to other tools. I'll see if I can mess around a little bit more if he lets me use them.

So I tested out my friend's nomics, they feel and climb GREAT! Only problem I have is the grip size. I don't have big hands, wear M on most gloves and the grips feel small (tight), so I overgrip a little. Does anyone have the same problem? My friend told me the handles are set to largest allowable Maybe they are not adjusted right or something.

Epic failure! Nah, just kidding. http://www.escaladequebec.com/Forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4887濜 [img:left]http://www.escaladequebec.com/Forum/uploaded/iberger0n/2010126145644_ErgoColour.jpg[/img]

ditto. Soon I hope. EMS already is showing quarks as discontinued.

WOW, I seriously doubt it's legit. Is there a way to check if the jacket is legit after you get it?

How about Millet Belay Device jacket?

I don't get it.

I flew with stoves before and never had a problem. I don't know what makes shipping it different.

Thanks, Dane. I was leaning toward intuition, but I found this link from AMH. It's interesting that while boots will get stiffer (harder for walking), but according to AMH, the fit gets worse for steeper terrain as well. http://www.alaskamountaineering.com/Info.cfm?id=66&d=3&c=185&s=0

So, I ponied up the money and got myself a pair of spantik and climbed 4 days so far in them in Vermont. They performed very well at moderate ice so far, never had cold feet (-10 temp). One of my goals this year is to do denali. I'm debating whether I should upgrade the liners to Intuition liner for weight and warmth. I got a couple of questions: 1. Sportiva rep doesn't have the weight of the liners, I'm wondering how much weight I'll save. 2. I heard conflicting information as to whether Spantik is warm enough for Denali or not. While I don't get cold feet, I rather stay on the conservative side. What's your opition? Thanks!

Mammut Laser is the softshell of my choice, from climbing to hiking to general around town. Expensive but worth the money.

I went up the Polish traverse side, all glacier water, not silty at all. My understanding is the Pen works very well. I met a guy in Istanbul who travel the entire africa using the pen and never got sick. I did hear if the water is really cold (glacier melt), the pen doesn't work as well.

Hey, Dane: I'm one of those people who has wide toebox and narrow heel, which sportiva never fit well. "Not the best pictures but trust me virtually same volume on both boots if not the Baruntse having the bigger volume toe box." "Old school laces on the Baruntse so you can crank on the outer boot and a simi- modern inner boot lace system still much easier to use and a much better fit for me (narrow heels) than the Spantik inner boot." Is this just from the photo or you actually felt the difference? I just might give Sportiva a chance if Baruntse fits me. BTW, how technical do you feel you can climb in those boots comfortably?

Great review Dane. Would you pick Fusion over Nomic? Looks like Nomic has a better total package.

I used BD's Mercury on Aconcagua. Never got cold hands.