Josh Lewis

Another great set of photos Luke! I had to show my brothers your pictures the other night. Love the night shots you take. Definitely an inspiration.

Oh it was sketchy for sure. I can safely say it was the worst rap I've ever done. Granted back then I didn't know you could lean on your PA (I know, silly eh) it still wasn't that great. The rope definitely didn't reach.

I think we did the right rappel and did the same class 3 section. Although you say it was a ramp? I remember the class 3 below as more of a gullyish setup. The class 4 section for us was definitely not blocky, but instead was a C4 traverse (the rock explodes like C4 too).

Our 4th class sections seem to be different. I remember it looking more like this:

Right, it says where the plaque is. I could make the assumption that it took place at or very close to the plaque. I did read Wayne's post, but would have had to assume that both are at the same location.

Right, but I'm trying to get more specific with where. Edge of the Challenger Glacier? I know it doesn't matter that much exactly where, but these details add to the story. If you say Perfect Pass area for all I know this could have taken place on the east side of Mount Whatcom.

Does anyone know exactly where this took place? The article described it as a rescue for someone near Mount Redoubt. So was perfect pass the most convenient place to put the plaque? Regarding getting to Perfect Pass, the terrible Imperfect Impass does not have to be done to get there. There is a class 4 variation if you go down and up. But it's not convenient and has a tricky bush whack section. We did two raps down when going back.

No profile pic? Tssss I expect a little better from you Matt. But if anyone has some bayda on this it would be appreesiated.

That's what I figured. What about bringing 2 30 meter ropes? It would be half the weight. Not as good for belaying but by the sounds of it there wouldn't be as much belaying.

Thanks for the beta folks. I did fine on the Torment Forbidden Traverse, although there were a few spots that had me a little nervous, but not scared. I assume a 60 meter rope is best? Or can I make due with a 30 meter? I'm mostly thinking in terms of rappels.

What pro would you recommend for the east ridge of Jburg? What rope length is ideal? Would a single rope be okay?

Just found this report while looking for beta to do this route. Right before heading out to do the Torment Forbidden Traverse I saw you folks way up the mountain, so here's the picture I took:

I did the Quien Sabe route back in September of 2011. No bergshrund issues. However the fresh snow may have helped with the crossing.

Nice pics, whats the telephone cord for (around the skiers leg)?

Thanks for the info. It's fun to do hard and strange routes.

I might not be able to do this route this year. I have college Monday through Friday, no car, no one willing to do it with me, and the bus doesn't run on Sunday. Despite these complications I would still try to pull it off. A few days ago I finished up Sky Rocket Couloir and missed the last bus (we got to Gold Bar at 7:20 p.m.). Fortunately we got lucky with getting out of town. Now if this was the good old days of 2011 or even better 2008 I could probably make the last bus in time. And unlike this time, if I miss the last bus, I'm not only stuck in Gold Bar for 2 nights, but my schooling would be compromised making it a significant risk. However it might be possible to try this route at night. What time of year did you do this?

Tomorrow's goal is Sky Rocket Couloir. Next week is the gamble chocolate Index route.

Thanks, one of these days I really ought to get it. I been using a mix between web pages, Google Earth, pictures, and friends to figure out my destinations.

What's the CAG? book? Regarding cornices, that was one of my biggest fears about the trip. It would probably be best if I wait for the weekend after this one. Perhaps do it in a day and a half? @layton: What's "tat"?

The primary crux appears to be at 2,200 feet where there is a questionable spot. If that's all clear, then yes, bush whacking might be the crux. A lot of snow has melted off Index which is what made this appealing. Of course I'd have to still be careful about avy danger. I specifically didn't go earlier due to the snow gullies that may bring down a mountain of snow. But I don't want to go too late in season due to the waterfall slabs.

I'm trying to create a new or unique route up Mount Index which I'm considering going up this next weekend. Has it been done? Is there any beta on it? I'm banking on it being a snow climb, but could be surprised. Here's a map of my intended route: http://www.alpinejosh.com/host/kml/h2/Anderson-Cirque.kml&t=t4'>http://www.mappingsupport.com/p/gmap4.php?q=http://www.alpinejosh.com/host/kml/h2/Anderson-Cirque.kml&t=t4 Here's the KML file for those interested: http://www.alpinejosh.com/host/kml/h2/Anderson-Cirque.kml Here's the best pic I could find of the route (on the right side): http://images.summitpost.org/original/725627.jpg

Replying to this thread so that I get notified when the time comes.

Wow! This made my break! A few minutes ago I took a break from JavaScript and decided this was the trip report I had to see during my break. Well done! I feel like I need to return to the mountains! ASAP!

Yikes sorry to hear about this. Anyways, nice pics.