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hafilax

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Posts posted by hafilax

    The Fallacy of Periodization?

    in Fitness and Nutrition Forum

    Posted

    dude, you asked from me for a sample routine that might get you, as a v4 climber, stronger. you can call this a mesocycle in a periodization program if you like, but i call it preparation to climb harder. btw, there is actually NO power work there, just strength, since most moves are done statically. there is no doubt that, beyond the fun i had climbing statically, this time of climbing helps my climbing to this day, so that's why i would recommend it to someone climbing at your level. are there other things you could do that would improve you? you betcha. almost anything that makes some sense and is done religiously and wisely for a solid chunk of time (at least two months) will improve you. mine was a small small slice from all the options, given because you asked. if it doesn't make sense, or you really don't like it, then don't do it, but if you want to improve, do SOMETHING. (but always work on finger strength, cuz that's the body/rock interface).

     

    in the end, of course aspects of "periodization" make sense, in certain situations. i'm just not a fan of adopting one religion and declaring it the end-all. that's just dumb, numb, blind idolatry!

     

    and my "program" for myself? power, strength, and stamina. with focus on what i'll be needing for a particular project.

     

    So, straying away from the tendon argument, I've noticed something. I went back a pages or three and re-read your example work out plan. the plan you wrote does not appear to endorse the "climb as hard as you can every time you climb" mantra. I think you need to make sure that we all understand exactly what you are trying to say, because here is how I (and i would guess many others) understand your proposed philosophy.

     

    An example schedule for clarity (for a v6 climber).

     

    Day 1

    Climb V5/6 as many times as you can until your exhausted.

    Day 2

    Climb V5/6 as many times as you can until your exhausted.

    Day 3

    Climb V5/6 as many times as you can until your exhausted.

    Day 4

    Climb V5/6 as many times as you can until your exhausted.

    Day 5

    Climb V5/6 as many times as you can until your exhausted.

    etc.

     

    this is the idea most of your earlier posts conjure for those who read them. Quite different from what you proposed for the V4 Squamish climber. the schedule you proposed, while not standard periodization, is not far from what many climbers do; a lumping together of three of the four non-rest phases: hypertrophy, power endurance, endurance. Your schedule seemed very reasonable, except I would encourage some caution with the fingerboarding routine, doubling the number of hangs to failure after only one week might be a bit much.

     

     

    That is what I was trying to get at by having him write out a schedule. Even Hoerst recommends skipping a lot of the endurance stuff and working maximum strength if you're a boulderer and concentrating on endurance for the alpinist.

     

    If you want to train all aspects especially if endurance is a key to success then I believe that periodization will maximize the benefits for that time span especially if timed before a big trip. For bouldering and powerful sport climbs working just maximum strength and power endurance might be a better use of time.

    The Fallacy of Periodization?

    in Fitness and Nutrition Forum

    Posted

    my favorite thing ever that helped my gym climbing and was super fun to boot was static climbing. at first i picked problems that were relatively easy for me, and did them statically. completely statically. that means the only thing that would move when reaching for the next hold was the hand doing the reaching. and my reach would be controlled, always; meaning i could hold my body in that position in control while my hand reached. what's so fun and practical about this is that it teaches body awareness, core control and strength, optimal pre-move body positioning, mindfulness, lock off strength, toe hooks, heel hooks, , creativity, and is low injury risk. i think i started doing this on v1's and v2's an dthen moved up, and after a few months of two or three times a week for an hour or two at a time, was staticing v7's and maybe a v8 or two. it's so fun too! it was especially fun when stoned, although my speed went to silly sloth slow and people made fun of me....the control aspect was key though: i NEVER let myself cheat. if i couldn't do the move statically, i'd work just that move til i either got it, or moved to a different problem. for me personally, this period of "training" changed my climbing. the strength improvement and the awareness of movement were the biggest things. (but mainly it was fun!)

    oh and i did these mainly on the steeper walls.

     

     

    fingerboarding was a big factor in improvement at one point (and continues to be). my fingerboard was pretty simple: some plywood with 3/4", 1/2", and 1/4" edges. tons of good routines on line and in books, but i'd warm up well, maybe 10 or 15 minutes of slowly increasing intensity hangs, then start. i think at first i simply worked up to being able to hang the 3/4" for a minute and a half. maybe it took 2 weeks, maybe 3. i'd just start hanging til i fell off! rest a few minutes, repeat. 10 times. that'd be the workout. two or three times a week. semi crimp position. then moved to 1/2", started doing the same thing. can't remember the length of hang i worked to here. i think i had to crimp this, and the 1/4".

     

    then started adding weight so i could only hang the 1/2 for 5 secs. do once, rest a couple minutes, repeat. 10 15 times. workout done. then assorted stuff on the 1/4". get creative. at first this'll kick your ass and more climbing on these days will be hard to do, but you get used to them. again, i got big improevements, but: mainly it was fun!

     

    i think if you did the finger workout 2 or 3 times a week, and the static 3 times a week, you'd absolutely notice a big improvement in two or three months.

     

    sample schedule:

     

    Mon

     

    static climbing, 1 hour in evening, ~15 to 20 climbs. fingerboarding after, 3/4" edge. 5 hangs to failure.

     

    tues rest

     

    wednesday same as monday

     

    thursday rest

     

    friday same as monday

     

    rest weekend

     

    2nd week, same as first, except hang to failure 10 times

     

    i think this might be a good place to start, and see if you are recovering well and staying relatively fresh. maybe it's too much, or not nearly enough. if you can, start doing more climbing per session, and add a saturday hangboard session.

     

    if anything hurts, rest it quickly before it becomes a problem. some aches are just part of the territory, but always better safe than sorry.

     

    whew. ok i'd love to hear if you end up doing this stuff, and the progress you make. 3 weeks to start noticing improvements, 3 months to really notice big jumps. but mainly, i'd hope you have fun with these.

    I was looking for a full winter's program or at least something that would span the time of a periodization program. What you've given IMO is a pretty standard mesocycle of the power phase of a periodization program. I'm trying to figure out which aspects of periodization you think are bullshit and I hoped that a concrete example would show what your alternative program is like.

     

    You guys can spew all you want about tendons but if Kimmo's program is not that much different from those used by people training then it's all just mental masturbation. I know of lots of climbers that just kind of choose a weakness and work it for a while without strictly adhering to the all round improvement philosophy of periodization.

    The Fallacy of Periodization?

    in Fitness and Nutrition Forum

    Posted

    Not that Homer. A different one.

     

    sorry my bad. only homer i know.

     

    whether or not your post was serious, my response was. trying to outline some form of generic "improvement" program without knowing the goals of the individual is kinda tuff.

    I figured you'd make something up for a generic climber or for yourself. The Homer thing was facetious.

     

    How about a V4 boulderer in Squamish looking to improve over the winter at the gym.

    Is Sponsorship a Sin?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I found it humourous that someone described a thread here as "...a very serious conversation..."

     

    Until recently, this particular question was left to the privacy of the brew pub...but then about a month ago Scott Semple wrote a blog entitled, "Is Sponsorship a Sin?" This question started a very serious conversation in the climbing community, both on his blog and in forums like cascadeclimbers.com.

     

    From: http://alpineinstitute.blogspot.com/2009/11/sin-of-sponsorship.html

    Canadian made expedition packs?

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    As much as companies would love to be able to have gear stitched in NA it's become unfeasible. The cost of living is too high and better work for better pay too available. They can't keep seamstresses(sters) through the deadline crunches which compromises getting product out on time and at the market price.

     

    I'm afraid that in my humble opinion, the above is total BS. It's really not that hard, but there is a bit of a paradigm shift involved. And I am right, with little to no room for argument. If I was wrong, companies across the value spectrum from New Balance to some cheap yoga clothing companies that I know of would not be bringing their production BACK onshore.

    You would know better than I. My statement was the party line for Arcteryx and MEC last year. American Apparel seems to pull it off and I guess a few others that you have mentioned. Maybe there will be a shift back to NA factory production?

     

    It made sense to me that it would be difficult to keep a solid employee base for stitching in NA even at a reasonable salary for high volume production but I'd be more than happy to be wrong.

    Canadian made expedition packs?

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    As much as companies would love to be able to have gear stitched in NA it's become unfeasible. The cost of living is too high and better work for better pay too available. They can't keep seamstresses(sters) through the deadline crunches which compromises getting product out on time and at the market price.

     

    You can call BS if you want on MEC's (and every other business that outsources stitching) position but they do the best they can with the resources available IMO.

    Expedition pack recommendation

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    One nice thing about a large(ish) pack is that, if you're disciplined and don't fill it, it can be much easier to pack, unpack and dig out things from the middle. It also gives you more options for exchanging some weight around in the party if someone ends up lightly injured or overloaded and for distributing communal items at the trail head.

     

    If you pack with a scale then you won't over load it. I'm not saying that a huge pack is the best pack but that pushing a small pack too far is no better. You really need to know the volume and weight of your own gear to decide the best pack size.

    How to fight gym bouldering newbie boredom

    in Newbies

    Posted

    Make up your own problems. Especially to work on skills that you want to develop.

     

    Get a laser pointer or a stick and have someone point to holds to move to.

     

    Play Add-on with someone of the same level. One person chooses starting holds and does a move. The next person repeats that move and then adds another. Continue until someone can't do a move.

    Is Sponsorship a Sin?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    The rant just seems jaded and closed minded. People that buy magazines like that shit and there's nothing that can be done about it. It's like ranting against pop music. You can't fight pop culture.

     

    As for honesty in self promotion, the frauds get found out in the end and the gravy train gets dumped in the river. I have no problem with people that aren't the best getting sponsored if they present a positive image of somebody that is passionate and out there climbing or doing whatever they do.

     

    If the 'more deserving' climbers aren't getting sponsors then they need to work on their self promotion skills. Sponsorship is part advertising and selling one's image is an integral part of the process.

    Poll on metal

    in Spray

    Posted

    Lars is a shitty drummer and they're a bunch of arrogant, immature windbags. I can't stand to listen to Metallica any more. I don't really like Megadeath either but I voted for them out of default.

     

    Give me some Mastodon or Bison!

     

    Death Magnetic is pretty damn good.

    I'm sure it is but I'm completely biased at this point and Hetfield's voice is unmistakable. I still listen to And Justice for All every once in a while but I don't enjoy it as much as I used to.

    Poll on metal

    in Spray

    Posted

    Lars is a shitty drummer and they're a bunch of arrogant, immature windbags. I can't stand to listen to Metallica any more. I don't really like Megadeath either but I voted for them out of default.

     

    Give me some Mastodon or Bison!

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