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hafilax

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Posts posted by hafilax

  1. A couple of comments...

     

    As Bill said, Metolius crew has stated that 1 in 20 cams in perfectly parallel-sided placements will pull. However, it is also my understanding that they think there is no value in 'setting' cams beyond the psychological. (I have a call in to verify both statements)

     

    -wear gloves when belaying many people have let go when the burn get's bad.

    While I think your other advice is good I have a bit of a hard time with this statement. Are gloves a bad idea? No, but if there's any kind of "burning" going on then it's an improper belay from my perspective and gloves shouldn't be used to compensate for bad belaying.

     

     

    In drop tests an anchored GriGri will let a couple of meters of rope slip. Just imagine what happens with a tube device. rgold on stuportace and cockrhyming has been saying for years that hard falls onto the anchor are best handled with gloves and he's caught a couple.

     

    I've definitely found loose flakes that I thought were solid on inspection by tugging a cam. I find that giving the sling a wiggle to test for walking immediately tests any optimism that the cam will stay in that spot. Aid climbers vigorously bounce test pieces, why should free climbers just plug and go? If possible I use a few tests to convince myself that piece is good and that blind faith isn't keeping me off the deck.

     

    C3s go really small. What sizes are we talking about here? The margin for error with the little guys is terrible. My partner has a set and they are the last pieces I reach for although when they do fit it's a boon.

  2. Yeah, what style? It also depends on what cab and speaker you want to use.

     

    I like the JCM800 50W and would mod it to use 6V6s instead of 6L6s to bring it down to about 30W get that nice power tube distortion especially for the cleaner tones. If you're playing clubs you won't get it with a 100W.

     

    I don't like the Rectifier tone. Too mid scooped and bassy especially with those big cabs, and not very versatile. The guitar just disappears from the mix so it ends up being cranked and muddying the whole band's sound. Of course that may be what you're looking for.

     

    You can do a lot with the cabinet too depending on the typical monitor setup.

  3. I have a 4 piece that I take camping when we hike into a lake. I tie crappy flies too but they seem to work. The fish don't really care if they're pretty as long as the right features are there or they're eating everything.

     

    BC lakes tend to have trees right to the water so it's not great most of the time. I sacrifice a lot of flies to the trees behind.

  4. I think I would rather kick steps down a slope than ride with an ice ax in my hands. Between the adze and the chance of getting the bottom spike in the leg it would make me really nervous.

  5. I think the guy was intentionally over-the-top but that doesn't excuse the tone of the article.

     

    From the other point of view, I was a really disconnected kid. I couldn't make a decision if my life depended on it. I remember one spring, my father asking me what camps/activities I wanted to do for the summer and I responded "I don't know." which was the truth. I really did need a little push to do something; anything.

     

    My father asked me later in my life why I never got into competitive sailing (he did an olympic campaign in the fireball class) and all I could think was that I never really had any support and just needed a push. I remember, if I asked for anything to do with sailing he would do his best to help me but he never offered anything. Maybe he was afraid of pushing too hard, I don't know.

     

    Anyway, every kid is different and motivated by different things. All a parent can do is try to be on the same wavelength. Of course according to the author and a few cockrhymers I'm not entitled to an opinion because I don't have kids. :rolleyes:

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