hafilax
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Mission Insnafflable
[video:youtube]tePbtLBcPDI
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The top one clearly looks like it has a good braze and the middle one clearly has a terrible braze. You can tell by the fillet of brazing material outside of the sleeve.
The bottom one is a little fuzzier and I can't recall what it pulled to. The braze isn't as good as the top one but better than the middle as there is some brazing material outside of the sleeve but the fillet isn't as nice as it should be.
The axle bending issue is an entirely different beast.
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Nobody is saying that all Aliens are unsafe but that there are a statistically significant number that are and that there have been accidents as a result of Aliens failing. I still think that a quick inspection of the braze will differentiate the good from the not so good. What is clear is that CCH has sub standard quality control and they, so far, have been unable to rectify that glaring shortcoming.Anyone that think their Aliens are unsafe can send them my way. -
I said it in the RC.com thread but I might as well repeat it here. It seems to me that if bad aliens are really this common and people are falling on them then the forces of the falls must be pretty low. Long falls can be pretty gentle if the fall factor is low and there is a dynamic belay.
I find the quality control issue to be more frustrating than frightening. A bad braze is pretty easy to spot so I'm sure a cursory inspection would pick the good from the bad pretty easily. Aliens have a number of unique features and it really is a good design. I simply would rather invest my money in a company that has better quality control and is innovative.
adatesman has pulled a number of other cams in similar states of disrepair and they all have come out well above the rated strength with the exception of a U stemmed Camalot.
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I've never asked someone to pay for fixed gear seriously although I always joke about it.
The only time I ever lost any gear my partner immediately payed for half when I told him the cost. I didn't ask for it and it wouldn't have bothered me if he didn't pay a cent.
It's really a decision of the partnership and is one of those things that's good to discuss before climbing. Kind of like a prenup.
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Good grief. Did everyone miss the car camping qualifier?
Weight is not an issue.
4 season tents should be renamed 1 season tents because they aren't much use in the summer (or spring and fall for that matter). They're built for big alpine storms. So far I've done just fine with 3 season tents for sheltered winter camping.
MEC tents are pretty good and you could pick one up on the way to Squamish. My girlfriend and I use a Tarn 3 which is a little heavy for backpacking but great for car camping. It survived a big storm at Mt. Baker this winter although we pitched it in the lee of some trees. It fits 2 bouldering pads for sleeping on with lots of room left over. Plenty of headroom for me to sit up although I'm only 5'8". My only complaint is the deep vestibule which is a stretch to open and close fully.
MEC also has lots of big family car camping tents but I've never looked at them seriously.
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The case in Squamish IIRC was a practice fall on Flying Circus. The person jumped, the first piece pulled but the next caught. The resulting fall flipped him over causing him to hit his head; no helmet.
Very sad.
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There is also the close relative of Cat Yodeling: Bagpipe Kitty
While the cat is purring, gently squeeze in order to create extra emphasis to the exhale thus enhancing the purring sensation. If done enough one can transition directly into Cat Yodeling.
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I decided to try and improve my french by reading Harry Potter novels. In the first paragraph of the book one of the characters pulls a 'baguette' out of his jacket. It took me a few pages to figure out that is was a wand and not a loaf of bread.
I'll have to give that recipe a try.
Got any tips on how to make a good pizza dough? The last ones turned out hard and flavourless as well and not being easy to form.
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Trip: Garibaldi - Neve Traverse and Mount Garibaldi
Date: 4/24/2009
Trip Report:
I guess it's about time I posted a TR here. This was an amazing trip and a more complete write up can be found on clubtread.
A long slog got us onto the Neve on Friday night. We awoke to clear skies and great snow. A party of 6 had passed us early in the morning as we dozed and I could see snowboard tracks off the peak. It looked like the ideal conditions for skiing Garibaldi.
The objective
Me contemplating the route
We skinned right up to the shrund and followed the boot pack of the previous party with ice ax in hand. The 'shrund was maybe 10cm wide at the time and easy to cross.
Looking North along the 'shrund
Making the summit
Aaron starts skiing down
Lining it up
Heading toward the 'shrund
Skiing the lower rolls
We made it back to the camp at around 2. After quickly assembling it on the packs we headed for the lake with great skiing. The crevasses between the Tent and the Shark Fin were nicely filled in and easily navigated.
Evening in Sentinel Bay
This was my first trip across the Neve and an amazing one at that. It was incredible to ski from the top of Garibaldi to the lake in a day in such beautiful weather.
All photos by Rob Priestley
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How much are you planning on doing? I have access to one at school in Burnaby.
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WTF was that?!
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You make space in your life for the things that are important to you. If you are sacrificing something that you enjoy in your life for something that you don't enjoy, you will not be happy.
I hope that people that give up their hobbies for their children look at their kids and think 'It is worth it!'. If not, they are doing themselves and their kids a great injustice.
I have traded in a number of hobbies through the years but I have always remained active. I can be happy doing any number of things as long as my mind and body are getting a work out. As a result, I've never really understood people that get tunnel vision on one activity.
I disagree with Kevbone's mind over mind philosophy. You can only convince yourself that you are happy for so long. Otherwise you have to take steps in order to set your priorities straight. It's hard to be a good parent and be unhappy.
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NSFW
Like this guy?
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OK, he was good in that one and is generally good in comedies but I've found him lacking as a dramatic actor. I always see him as acting in those roles and can't lose myself in the characters like with better actors. He's been in some great movies despite his performances IMO and Benjamin Button could be one of those.
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I thought it was a terrific movie. I loved the combination of music and visuals. The story was both disturbing and a total fairy tale. I didn't get that "I've seen this before" feeling that I usually get from Hollywood and it kept me engaged from start to finish.
I can't say that it deserved to win since I haven't seen any of the other nominated movies but it certainly deserved to be on the list. I was happy that it won given that it has no star power. Speaking of which, how the hell did Brad Pitt get nominated?! He's terrible.
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Is someone cleaning up Funarampa?
I was eyeing those lines last year thinking they would be good candidates for a demossing.
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The internal clocks, fans, wireless, ground loops etc. all add noise.
I have to orient the antenna of my wireless router the right way in order to not pick it up in the monitors.
External sound cards are usually less noisy than internal. It's more of a deal for professionals.
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I haven't shopped for this kind of thing in a few years so my opinion is dated.
If you want tone emulators I'd get something from Line6. Like many musicians for me tones inspire riffs.
If you want to record with a mic PreSonus made some nice USB preamps and interfaces at a good price a few years back. I'm not sure what's out there now. You'd have to get a mic but Sure SM57s are cheap and good.
That Zoom H2 looks cool and would be good for recording on the go and you wouldn't be tied to a noisy computer. Might be good for bootlegging shows if it can handle high SPLs. Could it handle a cranked 50W amp?
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I have a Line6 Toneport UX2 which my band used to record guitar and vocals for a CD. Works pretty well.
Acoustic or electric? Vocals?
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It's a compromise. Clipping the anchor as a first piece maximizes the force on the anchor but minimizes the forces handled by the belayer and vice-versa. If you have a solid anchor clip away, if it's suspect hand the belayer a pair of gloves and don't fall.btw, did u notice that the death-falling climber in figure 17 came off because he burned out using leashless toolsSpeaking of Fig 17
That is the second time I have heard/read that it is a bad idea to clip the belay as your first piece yet everyone I climb with insists its a good idea..
anyone care to comment on that..??
Another interesting suggestion has been to lower to a stance well below the anchor and belay from there. The forces involved will be less with more rope in play.
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What does dulling the corner do? It will fracture or pressure melt the moment it's loaded.I agree with what Don said and I would like to add something. I see a lot of climbers build V-Threads, thread their cord and rappel without sawing the cord against the back of the V-Thread to dull the corner of the tunnel the cord runs over. This is really sharp when the V-Thread is built, I think if someone built an 'A' Thread and didn't take any time to dull the corner of the tunnel and rapped with all the pressure pulling a 5/6mm cord againt that edge bad things could happen. -
[video:youtube]C-GFqhCq2HA&NR
[video:youtube]8_anbEJsr6s
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At least one does (at least according to the original caption):So why do Americans stitch Canadian flags to their backpacks when traveling?erm, they don't.
The only way to tell between an American and a Canadian is the Canadian will loudly proclaim themselves a Canadian*
*this excludes brobrah Jackson/Whistler/Chamonix anglophone douchebags. Really - you go expecting the French to be rude and they are friendly - it's the same shits you find at home who are the assholes.
Cover Your Bean!
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