shaoleung
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Posts posted by shaoleung
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I'm feeling the effects of too long bouldering in a gym and I need some ideas for a great crack circuit involving a dozen pitches of 5.8 and/or 5.9 so I can remember what it feels like to plunge hands and gear in deep. Something doable in a day. Multiple areas are fine.
Thanks!
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Here's a pretty good summation.
Although, no real info about what happened. Gawd some of the folks that post comments on the news sites make me want to vomit.
We really need to stop all this climbing business... far too dangerous. Either that or wear those sumo suits so we bounce when we fall... it'll save taxpayer money! It's the best way really. We need more money for the military anyway.
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Crazy people.
Arizona Senate Passes Bill Allowing Doctors To Not Inform Women Of Prenatal Issues To Prevent Abortions
Ron Paul fully supports this bill!
So does Frosty the Snowman.
Of course they do... their mothers would've aborted them had they known what they were getting into!
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Definitely full-body!
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Bring a crash pad and do some bouldering in the Icicle. Shade is the key.
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The nearest town is a gas station with a subway and pizza! Back country car camping out there. Pack a cooler!
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Our current loose plan is to take the extended Suiattle River Road approach. Bivvying on the Itswoot sounds awesome.
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Sounds good. East Face was going to be the first run for a few days in August. Looking for beta on the rockfall, I read about the new routes and I'm even more stoked. The only tough part will be choosing which ones to do.
Thanks!
Ben
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I'm all for bolting if it makes stuff safer or reduces environmental impact, but please figure out how to do the job right.
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I got on it for the first time last spring and there were no anchors. There are plenty of bolted rap anchors around Careno but the walk off from the top of pumpline is very safe & easy.
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I'm often a fan of bolts when it comes to safety, but I was more than a little disappointed with the bolt anchor on top of Pumpline. Not even so much that they were at the top of a beautiful trad test-piece, but that they were less than stellar placements.
If you're planning on TRing it, a solid anchor can be built with a couple big cams in the surrounding cracks.
Boo to convenience bolting.
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One of the issues that came up when we looked at rope specs was that the variance in gm/m among 10.2 ropes can be greater than the gm/m variance between 10.2 and 9.9 ropes.
At least one manufacturer discontinued a 9.7 and introduced a 9.9 where all the specs (aside the diameter) were exactly the same. No change in weight, strength or stretch.
In any case... time to shut up and climb. I've settled on a 10.2/67gm/m Monster.
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Thats because they are classified by their diameter, not their weight. Its like saying, oh yeah i have my 2 lb sleep bag with me.
We talked about that, but it really isn't like using weight for comparison. Sleeping bags vary so much in the type of fill, that temperature ratings have more meaning.
Rope widths on the other hand seem to be the more subjective number when compared to gms/m. Measuring nylon rope down to the tenth of a millimeter is somewhat futile when the diameter can vary significantly depending on temperature, moisture and weave. While girth is somewhat important, we all know that strength and how long one lasts trumps all else.
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In a recent coversation with a friend we were comparing spec sheets on ropes while I try to figure out a good, durable, rope for alpine. We were looking at the grams/meter instead of the mm rating given bythe manufacturer. The grams per meter seem to give a more reliable sense of the rope durability.
I am trying to figure out why of all the specs on ropes, the most commonly referenced is the diameter. I usually carry "a 10.2" but I am thinking if I pick one stat from the specs it should be the weight... Thus I will buy a 9.9mm rope next and call it my 65g.
Flawed logic, epiphany or genius?
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Bolt liberty bell!
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Yeah... I suppose it lacked sophistication... may as well delete this thread entirely...
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Are there any local stores that carry Tendon Ropes. Anyone here used one before?
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And... what makes you think i'm not serious???
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Foiled again! Where's Clint when you need him?!
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It's about time we all figure out that the answer is bolt ladders on all climbs. It's really the only way to secure climbing areas for the future climbers of the world. Bolt ladders will open the cliffs to everyone! Those of us who want to use gear and "technical skill" can simply skip the bolts!
There we go. Solved!
PM accolades directly to me.
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That would explain my confusion... I just thought the old book must've been really F-ed up.
I guess I'll wait for the book.
Thanks anyway.
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Awesome. Thanks.
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Does anyone have information about the new lines in the Trundle area?
Thanks.
Icicle Crack Circuit
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
Holy crap! I love a challenge... 8 stops, 23 climbs, 30 or so pitches, a couple thousand feet of plugging gear, one day, YEEHAW!
Stop 1: Castle Rock
Catapult 5.8
Canary 5.8
Jello Tower 5.8
Saber 5.6
Angel 5.10-
Stop 2: Trundle Dome/Surf City
Paydirt 5.7
Flake Fest 5.8+
April Mayhem 5.9
Stop 3: Purina Crags
Glass Eye 5.8
Poison Ivy Crack 5.9
Stop 4: Clamshell Cave
Clamshell Crack 5.7
The Cube 5.8
Stop 5: Barney’s Rubble
5.7
5.8
Stop 6: Alphabet Rock; Givler’s Dome
Dogleg Crack 5.8+
Meat Grinder 5.10a
Givler’s Crack 5.7
Bo Derek 5.10b
Stop 7: Icicle Buttress
Spaghetti Sauce 5.8
The Arch 5.8
Cocaine Crack 5.10a
R&D 5.6
Stop 8: 8-Mile Rock
Classic Crack 5.8