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shaoleung

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Posts posted by shaoleung

  1. Isn't it about time for someone to write a short history of cascadeclimbers.com? There are enough funny behind-the-scenes stories to hold someone's attention for a page or two.

  2. WTF!!!!! WHO THINKS THIS IS OK??? TREATING A POOR KITTY LIKE THAT! You should all feel ashamed. I'm boycotting CC for like at least 10 minutes.

    - Shocked User

  3. My friends have some mountaineering experience and a lot of rock climbing experience but are relatively new to the game as well. Any suggestions?

     

    ... "Some" experience often means enough to get yourself in serious trouble. Be nice to some folks with a lot of experience or take a mountaineering class through one of the many organizations that do them. I'm assuming you're not in ATL... Seattle has a ton of options. Check out the Mountaineers. They're infamous for many reasons, but they'll give you a good start.

  4. I think the fascists would take issue with "fascist left." I think the only association a true fascist is likely to favor is ultra-nationalism. Didn't Mussolini's peeps think lefties were as bad as anyone else they hated? What we got now is more fascist that the ideas professor Balls-in-his-mouth is talking about... but then again I couldn't watch the whole thing, so WTF do I know?

     

    Calling the left fascists is all the rage on the right. Save energy - fascism. Protect air and water - fascism. Provide a degree of consumer protection - fascism.

     

    Where have you been?

     

    You fucking fascist pig-dog!

  5. I think the fascists would take issue with "fascist left." I think the only association a true fascist is likely to favor is ultra-nationalism. Didn't Mussolini's peeps think lefties were as bad as anyone else they hated? What we got now is more fascist that the ideas professor Balls-in-his-mouth is talking about... but then again I couldn't watch the whole thing, so WTF do I know?

  6. If you're in Seattle, stop by Feathered Friends and play with their BD poles. OMG they're light! Kinda pricey, but if you're going to bother buying a pair, get a good set that you won't hum and haw about taking with you.

     

  7. 1. Put a cam in close to you, clove hitch the rope to its racking biner.

    2. Put another piece in a little further away, clove hitch the rope to it.

    3. If you need another piece, put it in now, and clove to it.

    4. Pull up rope, slap your [belay device of choice] on, and yell "On belay _"

    *Climber ascends to belay, then continues to lead the next pitch. He yells down "I'm anchored _"

    5. Start disassembling your anchor to whatever you feel comfortable with.

    6. You hear "On belay _" from above.

    7. Drop the last clove hitch or 2, rack those cam(s), and GO!

     

    How could a cordelette be faster than that? Consider the time it takes to de-rack and re-rack a cordelette.

    It takes me 2-3 seconds to whip up a clove hitch, and 1-2s to later pull it off the biner.

     

    My 18' 7mm ACR cordelette weighs in around 300g with an ultralight locker.

    That's about the same weight as 5 Metolius TCUs, or a #4 Camalot C4.

     

    I usually still have a variety of biners, a 60cm or two, and sometimes a 120cm sling at the top; if I plan on switching the belay over, they come into play.

     

    What you have here is not an anchor though. Cloving into a series of pieces gives you no equalization, which is a pretty serious compromise in safety. Sure, there's a balance... there comes a point when efficiency is more important, but I would say this system is flat out dangerous.

  8. back to an important question: what is the specific definition to the word "douche bag" that we are referring to?

    And what specifically makes the bag worse than the actual douche? And a douche its self isn't so bad, its only when it gets used? Also the term seems a little sexist, I would prefer a little more gender neutral idiom.

     

    "Santorum wipe"?

  9. well, if you trained a bit, instead crying on the bb about your weak pansy ass bitch arms, you could join the ranks.

     

    Dude I'm so on it. I picked up a pair of 7.5 lb dumbbells from good will. Once I can do more than 3 pull ups, I'll switch to pulling on the tree branches. Budgeted for wax and oil. Practicing my warm smile. Yeah baby.

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