shaoleung
-
Posts
307 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by shaoleung
-
-
Healthy trees with few/no exposed roots are great. Horns can be solid, but only if they're deep rooted too. Any rock that is not solidly pinned down or attached to the rock face is suspect.
If you doubt it, back it up with a piece or two... be thoughtful and remember that a solid nut can hold up a truck.
-
If you drop your partner's gear but you climb with him all the time, it'd be worth offering... but it'd be worth declining the offer too. If you're climbing with someone you don't usually climb with, replacement would be a good idea.
-
The answer is of course obvious! Scientology! We are all little aliens trying to find ourselves!
-
I have always been fond of playing with my nuts and squeezing them into tight cracks. However, my stamina isn't what it was and I am more interested in investing in small cams now.
I am looking at the alternatives. Right now I am looking at Camalot C3s, TCUs, Wild Country Zeros, DMMs, Omega Pacific, and Aliens (word is they've survived despite the bad batches).
Are there any other small cams I should think about sliding into cracks? I know there are opinions too... bring it on!
-
12a for the lower section seems about right.
I doubt brendan w is worried about the grade, but climbers love the numbers. Nothing better than to swing your sausage listing your YDS accomplishments. You know you love it.
-
OK... got it. That was a tough one... Index parking lot.
-
Where's the meeting spot?
-
The beauty of Rainier as a climbing objective is that you can easily do it another weekend. Play safe.
-
Given the equipment they used in the 1910s and 20s, it may have been safer to climb without all the gear. His 6 theorums (as posted on wiki) are pretty solid. In any case... another fallen climber.
-
Ahhh... the free soloists... some time in the 80s it seems like it became the cool thing to do. The likes of Dan Osman and Michael Reardon pushing the extreme limit.
I hope the guy is OK, but let's face it, when you push your limits or let your guard down, you're going to fall. I'd rather take mine with a rope.
-
Mmmm... that'd make for a big BBQ.
-
-
The climber was lowered in a litter to the ambulance. He was taken to Central WA hospital in Wenatchee, evaluated and discharged. Nothing broken, no internal injuries. He is recovering at home.
Sisu, do you know any details of the fall?
-
Pumpline is definitely fun... thin pro though. I heard about the accident 2nd hand so I hesitate to speculate. Good to know he's OK.
-
Does anyone know how the climber is that fell on Pumpline?
-
Dane... awesome stuff. Thanks for sharing.
-
Great ideas! I keep a paper journal and don't print my pics for it. Looking over it, there definitely is not enough detail. Unlike some of my climbing partners, I don't remember details of gear needed for climbs I did years ago.
Valhallas - would you mind PMing your blog address so I can check it out?
Thanks!
-
Tick lovers - Check yer chodes... they love it down there!
Mattp: my friend was interested in keeping track of the climbs he'd done. He does a smattering of alpine routes, cragging and Leavenworth trad and sport. The idea is more of a database so that when those of us with crappy memory are trying to remember the names of the 3 climbs we did last season, we can look it up and see what thoughts we had. This would save us having to flip through our dozen or so guide books for that illegible note about who led what and when.
I'm not sure how it would work exactly... but to avoid the pissing contest, I suppose it would have to exclude any sort of comparative BS. No running totals or opinions on how easy that 11c was.
-
Indeed. There's no need for that.
-
A friend who does not frequent CC was asking about digital ticklists. I know when CC got started there was some talk of a 8a.nu style ticklist for NW climbing areas. Was there a reason why that never took off?
-
I like to mix up trad/sport/alpine a lot and I don't have a ton of cash to buy separate sets of draws. However, ideally on alpine/trad I go for lighter since you need more gear and I use a bunch of biners to organize my rack. I also pack at least one single with a pair of lockers for my Jesus nut.
Bent gates are great for sport, but if you work on your clipping technique it shouldn't make a noticeable difference to use wire gates instead. For trad/alpine I don't think bent gates make much sense.
-
I think "borrowing" used chalkbags at a gym is generally OK. I've never lost/forgotten mine, but if I did, I suppose using a lost'n'found bag would be reasonable for a SG trip. If I forgot mine at the gym and saw someone using it on my next visit... while awkward I think I'd let them know it was mine, but it doesn't seem like an offense of an undesirable. The dutch don't mind sharing bikes which arguably get more intimate... I don't see why we can't be more open.
So, I left my chalkbag at SG last Wednesday! Talk about douche bag. It's the big green one with chile peppers all over it. If I see you with it, I will tell you to keep it an love it... I obviously don't.
-
Mmm yes... unsolicited beta would be top of my list.
Top 10 Douche-Bag Moves at the gym
1. Unsolicited Beta
2. Unsolicited spot
3.....
-
I think "borrowing" used chalkbags at a gym is generally OK. I've never lost/forgotten mine, but if I did, I suppose using a lost'n'found bag would be reasonable for a SG trip. If I forgot mine at the gym and saw someone using it on my next visit... while awkward I think I'd let them know it was mine, but it doesn't seem like an offense of an undesirable. The dutch don't mind sharing bikes which arguably get more intimate... I don't see why we can't be more open.
Maybe we could start a SG chalk bag swap... I'm bored of mine.
Favorite Olympic Rainforest hikes?
in Climber's Board
Posted
JoshK,
The Hoh Valley is one of the coolest ecosystems in the Northwest. Well worth the drive around. Plus you get to go through Forks... bring your vampire fangs.
The Hoh Rainforest is the only temperate rainforest in the US. There are tons of camp sites all the way up. The Olympus Guard Station (about 8 or 9 miles up) is pretty cool. When the weather's good, you can hang out on gravel bars and swim, though the water level might be high right now. Past OGS it gets steep and they may not have cleared the windfall yet.
The Quinault is somewhat closer, and pretty cool too... though I would go the extra miles for the Hoh.
Have Fun!