Lukic

Hey all, Partner for tomorrow is sick and can't go. I would love to take advantage of the weather and get out for some ice. I'd be interested in something alpine or some ice at Alpental or Leavenworth. Thanks, Lukic

You might also want to check out this tool from Petzl. I haven't used it myself, but saw one at Pro Mountain Sports in the U-District. The adjustable pinky rest seemed pretty cool for moderate alpine climbing. http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/classic-mountaineering-ice-axes/sumtec

Unfortunately they are not open and I got the impression that they weren't going to be opening again.

Trying to find a partner before I take off for something solo. Interested in anything the weather will allow for; ice, mountain or rock. Would be interested in North Face of Hood if conditions are good (are they?), Coleman Headwall, Coleman seracs, leavenworth, or something else. I'll be getting off work tomorrow morning at about 8am but will do my best to check for messages between then and now. Thanks, Lukic 360.510.0717 Left town for southern climates.

The RBH vbl socks in the link above are pretty good. No slick, sliding around but they do have a little extra bulk around the ankle but I haven't found that to be a problem. The biggest drawback is that you have to order them online since I don't know of any place you can actually try them on. I went by their sizing guide and have been happy with the fit but still wonder if I could have got one size smaller for a little more snugness. Also, here is a link for 40 below that shows a vbl vest that letsroll was thinking of: http://www.40below.com/product_detail_public.php?ProductID=310

The weather is looking pretty good for the Leavenworth area, so I wouldn't mind getting in some rock climbing. I also wouldn't mind heading up to Baker for some serac climbing and maybe to check out Colfax. I have rope and full rack for both rock and ice. Might be willing to go mountain climbing as well depending on the specific route. I'm at work today, but get off tomorrow morning so if you call leave me a message. Lukic 360.510.0717

I've had several people recommend the Grivel Helix ice screws and I've loved them as well. They're hard to get a hold of, but Jim Nelson still gets them at Pro Mountain Sports in the U-District in Seattle.

A very understated and humble trip report by a very fun climbing partner. I'm very new to ice, but the second pitch of High on Boulder was a very stout lead that was difficult to follow by a chump like me. I definately appreciate how Eiji left out the 5 minutes of hang time I took on the last pitch and replaced it with: "confidently led."

Pro Mountain Sports in the U-district in Seattle is still carrying Grivel products.

I rigged up some umbilicals for my older BD Vipers by buying a shackle that was long enough to go around the bottom spike and drilled a slightly bigger hole in the fang to put the shackle bolt through. After failing to find any shackles at department stores, I found one at a marine supply store in their sailing section. I know the marine supply store on the north end of Lake Union by Gasworks has a good selection of gear.

As of last winter, Marmot mountain works still rents ice tools and crampons.

Looking for a partner for the Fisher Chimenys route on Shuksan. I have work on Monday and get off about 8:00 am Tuesday morning in Seattle. Lukic

I climbed down there with the super topo guide book and found it very easy to use with lots of good info and a bit of history, so I'd recommend it.

If you look lower a few posts down you'll see the same basic post, but the man with the plan had to bail due to personal reasons. If you act now, his loss can be your gain!!! I'm looking for a partner to do the Fisher Chimneys. I've got good knowledge/skills for glacier travel and rock climbing and all the gear. In fact, it's sitting in my car right now because I was hoping to take off after I get off work in the morning. Best bet to contact me is via phone but I'm at work until 8:00 am tomorrow so you may have to leave me a message on my cell and I'll return it ASAP. Lukic 360.510.0717

Here's a link to some weather stations in the cascades with one up at Camp Muir: http://slum.dyndns.org:8090/plots/plots.html

I've got the time off, so if you're looking for a partner(s) still I'm in. PM with more info to follow.

Looking for a partner for some rock climbing up at Index. I've been leading 5.9s at Index this summer and looking to do some more. Don't mind climbing at any particular wall, but love to check out Private Idaho and possibly revisit Rattletale. I get off work at about 8:00 am Monday morning and can be ready to climb by 11:00 am. Best bet to reach me is via cell phone. Lukic 360.510.0717

No triples. If you're doing the twin cracks, it might be nice to have a #3 camalot sized cam or two depending on comfort and for the left side crack a small cam or two around a yellow C3 fits perfectly near the top. Don't need any nuts and listen to the advice above.

PM.

I have the 15th and 16th off next week and would be willing to go. I too have only been leading trad for about a year and can climb 5.8-5.9 level at Index while leading. I live in Mountlake Terrace but can't leave too early on the 15th since I get off work at 8:00am that morning, but can leave as early as you want on the 16th. I also have the 23rd and 24th off the following week if that works better. Let me know. Lukic

Thanks you both. It sounds like you also had quite the fun time in the mountains yourself Rob. Congrats to you too.

Trip: Mt. Baker - Coleman-Deming Date: 7/2/2008 Trip Report: Went up the Coleman-Deming two days ago with a some guys from cc.com. The conditions and weather were perfect and the approach trail wasn't as bad as some made out to be. The road is clear to the trailhead and requires no walking/4wd. The bridge at the beginning of the trail is washed out, but as someone already posted, it is less than a 5 minute detour to the log downstream that people are using to cross. Provided you stay with the trail, which can be difficult at times, you can easily find ways to cross some of the streams that still have melting snowbridges accross them. The upper portion of the trail is fairly destroyed but someone took the time to mark it with surveyors tape. Once on the Coleman Glacier the route should be fairly obvious. There is an older boot track that passes a major crevasse system to the climber's right, but that route is no longer passable. We were the last team to cross a very small, melted out and sketchy snow bridge at 8000' by taking the time to set up anchors and belay one another. We heard that the team behind us turned around after the bridge collapsed on them. Fortunately, there is an easy route around. By turning to the climber's left at 7200', one can easily avoid the crevasses at 8000'. We were fortunate enough to find out about this from another party on our descent. Between 8500' and 9000' there is a large snowbridge to be crossed and with the warm weather and high freezing levels it is only a matter of time before the sketch factor in that area increases dramatically. The rest of the route is straight forward and "easy." It was a fun trip, with ideal weather and good company. If someone could enlighten me in adding photos to a trip report, I could post a photo showing the old and new route. Thanks. Gear Notes: Standard glacier travel Approach Notes: Trail is broken and washed out in places but easily passable.

The leader should carry the beer ... haven't you seen The Eiger Sanction?

Winter route is out and the trail does have some washouts, but it's marked pretty well with surveyor's tape. Some creek crossings require a bit of detour due to collapsing snow bridges, but nothing heinous. The rest of the route is straight forward as long as you avoid a crevasse at 8000' that people were crossing on a snowbridge. We were the last party that made accross as it collapsed on the party behind us, but there is an easy way to avoid the crevasses by detouring to the climbers left at about 7200'. Everything else is straight forward from there.

PM sent.