Lukic
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Everything posted by Lukic
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I climbed down there with the super topo guide book and found it very easy to use with lots of good info and a bit of history, so I'd recommend it.
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If you look lower a few posts down you'll see the same basic post, but the man with the plan had to bail due to personal reasons. If you act now, his loss can be your gain!!! I'm looking for a partner to do the Fisher Chimneys. I've got good knowledge/skills for glacier travel and rock climbing and all the gear. In fact, it's sitting in my car right now because I was hoping to take off after I get off work in the morning. Best bet to contact me is via phone but I'm at work until 8:00 am tomorrow so you may have to leave me a message on my cell and I'll return it ASAP. Lukic 360.510.0717
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Here's a link to some weather stations in the cascades with one up at Camp Muir: http://slum.dyndns.org:8090/plots/plots.html
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I've got the time off, so if you're looking for a partner(s) still I'm in. PM with more info to follow.
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Looking for a partner for some rock climbing up at Index. I've been leading 5.9s at Index this summer and looking to do some more. Don't mind climbing at any particular wall, but love to check out Private Idaho and possibly revisit Rattletale. I get off work at about 8:00 am Monday morning and can be ready to climb by 11:00 am. Best bet to reach me is via cell phone. Lukic 360.510.0717
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Gear suggestions for Index - Toxic Shock
Lukic replied to shannonpahl's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
No triples. If you're doing the twin cracks, it might be nice to have a #3 camalot sized cam or two depending on comfort and for the left side crack a small cam or two around a yellow C3 fits perfectly near the top. Don't need any nuts and listen to the advice above. -
PM.
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Mid Week Liberty Bell (Becky Route) Partner Wanted
Lukic replied to AR_Guy's topic in Climbing Partners
I have the 15th and 16th off next week and would be willing to go. I too have only been leading trad for about a year and can climb 5.8-5.9 level at Index while leading. I live in Mountlake Terrace but can't leave too early on the 15th since I get off work at 8:00am that morning, but can leave as early as you want on the 16th. I also have the 23rd and 24th off the following week if that works better. Let me know. Lukic -
Thanks you both. It sounds like you also had quite the fun time in the mountains yourself Rob. Congrats to you too.
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Trip: Mt. Baker - Coleman-Deming Date: 7/2/2008 Trip Report: Went up the Coleman-Deming two days ago with a some guys from cc.com. The conditions and weather were perfect and the approach trail wasn't as bad as some made out to be. The road is clear to the trailhead and requires no walking/4wd. The bridge at the beginning of the trail is washed out, but as someone already posted, it is less than a 5 minute detour to the log downstream that people are using to cross. Provided you stay with the trail, which can be difficult at times, you can easily find ways to cross some of the streams that still have melting snowbridges accross them. The upper portion of the trail is fairly destroyed but someone took the time to mark it with surveyors tape. Once on the Coleman Glacier the route should be fairly obvious. There is an older boot track that passes a major crevasse system to the climber's right, but that route is no longer passable. We were the last team to cross a very small, melted out and sketchy snow bridge at 8000' by taking the time to set up anchors and belay one another. We heard that the team behind us turned around after the bridge collapsed on them. Fortunately, there is an easy route around. By turning to the climber's left at 7200', one can easily avoid the crevasses at 8000'. We were fortunate enough to find out about this from another party on our descent. Between 8500' and 9000' there is a large snowbridge to be crossed and with the warm weather and high freezing levels it is only a matter of time before the sketch factor in that area increases dramatically. The rest of the route is straight forward and "easy." It was a fun trip, with ideal weather and good company. If someone could enlighten me in adding photos to a trip report, I could post a photo showing the old and new route. Thanks. Gear Notes: Standard glacier travel Approach Notes: Trail is broken and washed out in places but easily passable.
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[TR] South Early Winters Spire - Southwest Buttress 7/2/2008
Lukic replied to rob's topic in North Cascades
The leader should carry the beer ... haven't you seen The Eiger Sanction? -
Winter route is out and the trail does have some washouts, but it's marked pretty well with surveyor's tape. Some creek crossings require a bit of detour due to collapsing snow bridges, but nothing heinous. The rest of the route is straight forward as long as you avoid a crevasse at 8000' that people were crossing on a snowbridge. We were the last party that made accross as it collapsed on the party behind us, but there is an easy way to avoid the crevasses by detouring to the climbers left at about 7200'. Everything else is straight forward from there.
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PM sent.
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Looking for someone who wants to get out and climb this afternoon at Index or the Exits. Live in Mountlake Terrace, have car, rack and rope. Lukic 360.510.0717
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No new and exciting leads unfortunately, but I did follow a beautiful lead up Breakfast of Champions. It was only the second time I've been on that route and it is as strenuous as I remembered, so I was happy not resting or falling. Got some fun air time while rapping to the ground.
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Thanks for the offer for this weekend and the kind thoughts. I got a last minute phone call from another CCer and jetted off to index for a late afternoon/evening of climbing. Sad story had a happy ending.
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Is anyone available for easier Index routes today? I'd like to lead some of the 5.8s and maybe take a crack at Roger's Corner if I'm feeling froggy. I'll even go to Exit 38 if that's the only taker. Rack, rope, car and willing to use all! Lukic 360.510.0717
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Thanks for posting the summit shot ... I think. It's a funny photo.
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I'm in for some climbing. I've been chomping at the bit to climb something. I'll give you a call today.
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Godzilla at Index was enjoyable today. Start of the route was damp, but you could pick your way through on dry stuff and the rest of the route was bone dry. Beautiful blue skies and upper fifties with a light breeze.
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What size/material do use for your tag line when you need the extra rap length while climbing with a single?
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Climbing Partner/ Guide for Rainier at End of Feb
Lukic replied to Robin Young's topic in Climbing Partners
I've given a thought to doing Rainier this winter, but had pretty much given up do to the unusually high avalanche conditions. I'm not too optomistic about the chances of conditions improving this winter, but the end of February is quite a ways away. If conditions do get better, I'd be interested in an attempt and at the very least would be willing to head up to Camp Muir. Not to be mean, but I'm not interested in a partner with more enthusiasm than sense. About me: I've usually got a lot a free time and enjoy going to Mt. Rainier. I've only summitted 3 times and only by Disappointment Cleaver and the Emmons Glacier routes, but I've been on the Ingraham Direct and Disappointment Cleaver another 3 times that we ended up turning around on. I've never been on it, but had an interest in doing Gib Ledges. Last winter road access was a problem and this year it's avalanches. Here's a link: http://www.summitpost.org/route/160662/gibralter-ledges.html Lukic -
What routes/area were you thinking of? Lukic
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Check your PMs.
