RaisedByPikas

An older gentleman hiking up to Cascade Pass Sunday evening talked to someone else that said they spent the night on Sahale. We were alone up there as far as I could tell so maybe he was talking about you?

I thought the funniest comment was "The worst part is that her mushroom hunting grounds were revealed". Some of these mushroom pickers will take the location of their Morel patches to the grave. But yeah. Dang mushroom pickers wasting my tax dollars. Make them pay for their own ignorance.

Yeah that trail is almost wheelchair accessible its so flat. It gets frustrating to see people 50ft below you but a quarter mile ahead.

Yeah, it had snowed a few inches on Thursday night so it made the glacier look nice and fresh. There was one set of climbers that soloed it on Saturday. The storm also left a nice pile of fresh snow to melt against the rock walls of the campsites, couldn't ask for better conditions. It looks like the winter snow pack may be starting this weekend so any climbing will be more difficult.

Trip: Sahale Peak - East Ridge Date: 10/17/2010 Trip Report: Having done a few glacier/snow climbs, my wife and I decided to get our hands on some alpine rock for the first time. We spent Saturday night at the camp and hit the peak in the morning. The route above the camp went up the climbers left side of the glacier to avoid some crevasses and then traversed over to the east ridge where the scrambling began. Being that my wife isn't comfortable with exposed scrambling (and neither of us with exposed down climbing) We broke out the rope when the 4th class started. The route we took went towards the right side of the first prominent step up to a large ledge, maybe twice the size of a large dining room table. From here it was up a slightly bigger than fist sized crack for maybe 20ft and then an easy 20ft to the summit rappel anchor. Above the large ledge I slung a chock stone in the crack and then a horn for protection and didn't feel that pro was necessary below the large ledge. Spent about 20 windless sunny min on the summit looking at the other peaks, eating and drinking then set up to rappel. Our 60m rope got us to within a 20ft fairly easy down climb to the snow where we traversed back over to the rocks to scramble down to our ice axes and crampons. I never saw a second set of rappel anchors but I was probably too far to climbers right. The rappel anchors looked to be in good shape with a quick link and thin aluminum ring. If you plan on supplementing them you will probably need 15-20ft of webbing or chord to get around the large boulder. Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, a few slings to sling horns, a 60m twin rope would be ideal if you need a rope. Approach Notes: Via Sahale Arm. Saw a bear on the way down.

I am actually curious as to why he cares though.

Does it really matter? Almost all hikes or climbs include a few hundred feet of "unaccounted" elevation gain.

Click

They had to get them off the witches in salem some how.

I think I figured out that tie in knot, similar to how one might rack a prussik chord...

Might want to think twice before listening to Barefooter, check out the sweet quickdraw tie in method they used though in his TR... http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/977070/Re_TR_Mount_Hood_SS_09_04_2010#Post977070

WOW, I'm not sure I can identify that knot in the middle there. And are they tied together with cord, that rope looks pretty thin?

Get yourself a copy of freedom of the hills, may want to wait for the 8th edition, I hear its out in some places now though. Read all of it and practice knots with any short chunk of rope. +1 for the Boealps course. Its pretty intense (1 night a week and then pretty much at least 1 day a weekend) for the 3 months its going but well worth it ($350ish). You climb with the same team throughout the course so its a good way to find good partners and make friends. Registration is usually early feb and it fills up fast if you don't work at Boeing so get there early. They will tell you at the beginning that if you miss a weekend that you cant pass but that's not entirely true. You just have to make it up before they pass you and you cant miss the first few outings. The course says that if you can get the the top of Mt Si in 4 hours with a 30lb pack then you will be fine physically and that's pretty much true. As for gear buying, If you don't have backpacking gear, patrol the backpackinglight.com forums for great deals along with nwhikers.net and mountainproject.com Most of the stuff you need can be obtained used for about 50% or more off retail

Thanks for the replies. I'm pretty set on dynafits (and nothing that old) due to the weight issue (yes i care about 2lbs). I just want to make sure I understand this correctly... Ski shops will only work on indemnified alpine bindings for liability reasons but they will work on any AT binding?

Maybe someone can find him the correct angle snow slope...

So I have decided that I don't want to walk down snow covered mountains anymore and therefore need some AT skis. While researching the internets about buying used ski gear I come across the warnings about indemnified bindings but does this even apply to AT bindings? Basically am I wasting my money if I buy some Dynafits used? Thanks

If you are considering Hannegan Peak you may want to go for Ruth peak instead as long as the glacier isn't open (its a small pretty tame glacier). It may be open already I don't know the conditions. You may need and ice axe or crampons depending on the conditions though. It has an awesome unobstructed view of Shuksan. Otherwise put down another recommendation for Cascade Pass / Sahale Arm.

I had a tent coated with dust after an Adams climb, just hosed it off and it was fine. I would do the same with your gore-tex.

Any basic straight shaft mountaineering axe will be what you need. I think the length is supposed to come to your ankles if you hold it down at your sides. If its a little shorter than that it won't kill anything though. For Adams or other similar snow climbs you can get away with a sturdy pair of hiking boots with strap on crampons as long as the boots aren't super flexible. Go buy freedom of the hills, then read it. If you cant get someone with experience to show you, watch some youtube videos of self arrest technique several times over. Then practice it yourself (without crampons) on a slope where you can't hurt yourself if you go out of control. Don't glissade with crampons on...ever.

http://www.metro.co.uk/weird/836120-falling-goat-hits-hiker-off-mountain-in-50ft-fall Falling goat hits hiker off mountain in 50ft fall An Austrian hiker has been hospitalised after being hit by a falling mountain goat and tumbling 50ft to the ground. Walter Kaiser, 59, was rushed to emergency services in Filzmoos, Austria, but the goat remained unhurt and ran off after the incident. Kaiser was flown to Schladming Hospital by helicopter and suffered a number of minor injuries. He was knocked off the side of Hochkesslekopf Mountain by the plunging goat during his climb.

The average "tourist/Mt. Si" hiker probably doesn't realize how long it can take for rescue even at fairly close locations. I don't know how long it took SAR or whoever responded to get there but an hour would feel like an eternity to someone who is used to the ambulance being at their house in 10 min. We all know that anytime you get same day service from SAR its good but Joe hiker may not.

That second karate chop is crazy, it looks like all of his fingers break. I wonder what a long lead fall would look like close up in ultra slowmo, focused on the climber as the rope came taut.

Based on the notoriously incorrect articles it sounds like the final guy (I'm guessing that refers to the top guy bc the team was on decent) fell and unzipped the rest of the team. If thats the case then its very difficult for the next person to stop the fall should the person who fell be unable to arrest. It also sounds like Mr. Adams was the first on decent therefore last into the crevasse if the team was indeed unzipped from the top down. Personally this fear is why I attach my ice axe to my harness. I hope that if I see or hear the leader fall that there will be enough time to plunge my axe in which will hopefully hold better than the standard arrest position. The trade off to this is that in an uncontrolled tumbling fall I will be unable to jettison my axe but by that point I would be pretty F'ed anyway.

Here is a list of basic climbs for the mounties. http://www.tacomamountaineers.org/pdfs/basic_climbing/BasicClimbs.pdf

Would you mind posting detailed pictures of the buckle (front and back) on your leg loops as well as how you buckle them. I'm not doubting that your doubling back correctly but the engineer in me is saying that there must be a reason that your harness is defective considering thousands of these things have had no problems. Have you been able to duplicate the problem while not climbing, i.e. jiggling the leg loops with your hand while just standing around? I was able to make my leg loops loosen a little but only when I had the excess strap tucked into the little keeper slot on the padding.