RaisedByPikas

Another trick in certain tight constrictions is to use the the water knot of tied piece of webbing as a nut.

Email sent.

A $900 windstopper blazer may be a stupid product but Arc'teryx isn't claiming to revolutionize the outdoor industry with them. Half of REI is devoted to fashionable shit that has no place off of concrete, why not add a wind proof blazer too?

Sell your expensive Gore-tex and feathered friends down gear because its all about to become obsolete... http://outside-blog.away.com/blog/2010/11/the-gear-junkie-scoop-columbia-sportswear-2011.html

Here is what I don't understand. Mountaineering franchise fees generate 350k according to the FAQ yet only 60k are getting put back into the climbing program. Where is the other 290k going? I hope not to the paradise lodge renovation. Mount Rainier National Park receives approximately $350,000 annually from the combined franchise fees of the three mountaineering concessioners. Franchise fees from all park concessioners (there are 5, total) are pooled and prioritized by park management for use on concession-related needs. I sent them an email, we'll see what they say.

I'd rather have the chance to try to dig 2.5m fast enough (especially if the victim has an avalung) than not be able to find them in the first place I too am a noob backcountry skier looking for a probe so is there a point where having a long probe will slow you down because it becomes unwieldy? BCA makes a 3.4m probe, is this probe more difficult or slower to use because its super long?

I tend to only climb in good weather so I carry down insulation and a down bag. If for some reason I was going to take a trip with several days of rain predicted then I would probably switch to a synthetic jacket but I will always use a down bag. Unless its really really cold you wont need to wear the down while moving so its not out of the pack enough to get wet.

Put your pictures online (picasa or the like). Right click on the picture and select "copy image location". Click the "enter an image" button, not the Photopost button. Select one of the optiosn. Paste. Ok. You can also upload them to the gallery and then try what I said but I dont like that.

Ok I found all that I know about: First Ascents http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/6234547/ Powder Skis http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/5987841/ Schralp the Gnar http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/5720187/ New School Trad http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/6106469/ And if you click the name of the person who created it, you can find a few more.

Who writes these, they are great. I wish we had a sticky that just listed them all, I only know of 4. First Ascents, Schralp the Gnar, new school trad, and this one. But I can never find them when I want to.

I bet that think shakes pretty good on a windy day, does that increase the grade of the routes?

An older gentleman hiking up to Cascade Pass Sunday evening talked to someone else that said they spent the night on Sahale. We were alone up there as far as I could tell so maybe he was talking about you?

I thought the funniest comment was "The worst part is that her mushroom hunting grounds were revealed". Some of these mushroom pickers will take the location of their Morel patches to the grave. But yeah. Dang mushroom pickers wasting my tax dollars. Make them pay for their own ignorance.

Yeah that trail is almost wheelchair accessible its so flat. It gets frustrating to see people 50ft below you but a quarter mile ahead.

Yeah, it had snowed a few inches on Thursday night so it made the glacier look nice and fresh. There was one set of climbers that soloed it on Saturday. The storm also left a nice pile of fresh snow to melt against the rock walls of the campsites, couldn't ask for better conditions. It looks like the winter snow pack may be starting this weekend so any climbing will be more difficult.

Trip: Sahale Peak - East Ridge Date: 10/17/2010 Trip Report: Having done a few glacier/snow climbs, my wife and I decided to get our hands on some alpine rock for the first time. We spent Saturday night at the camp and hit the peak in the morning. The route above the camp went up the climbers left side of the glacier to avoid some crevasses and then traversed over to the east ridge where the scrambling began. Being that my wife isn't comfortable with exposed scrambling (and neither of us with exposed down climbing) We broke out the rope when the 4th class started. The route we took went towards the right side of the first prominent step up to a large ledge, maybe twice the size of a large dining room table. From here it was up a slightly bigger than fist sized crack for maybe 20ft and then an easy 20ft to the summit rappel anchor. Above the large ledge I slung a chock stone in the crack and then a horn for protection and didn't feel that pro was necessary below the large ledge. Spent about 20 windless sunny min on the summit looking at the other peaks, eating and drinking then set up to rappel. Our 60m rope got us to within a 20ft fairly easy down climb to the snow where we traversed back over to the rocks to scramble down to our ice axes and crampons. I never saw a second set of rappel anchors but I was probably too far to climbers right. The rappel anchors looked to be in good shape with a quick link and thin aluminum ring. If you plan on supplementing them you will probably need 15-20ft of webbing or chord to get around the large boulder. Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, a few slings to sling horns, a 60m twin rope would be ideal if you need a rope. Approach Notes: Via Sahale Arm. Saw a bear on the way down.

I am actually curious as to why he cares though.

Sorry to go off topic but I'm curious as to why you are shocked by this?

Does it really matter? Almost all hikes or climbs include a few hundred feet of "unaccounted" elevation gain.

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They had to get them off the witches in salem some how.

I think I figured out that tie in knot, similar to how one might rack a prussik chord...

Might want to think twice before listening to Barefooter, check out the sweet quickdraw tie in method they used though in his TR... http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/977070/Re_TR_Mount_Hood_SS_09_04_2010#Post977070

WOW, I'm not sure I can identify that knot in the middle there. And are they tied together with cord, that rope looks pretty thin?

Get yourself a copy of freedom of the hills, may want to wait for the 8th edition, I hear its out in some places now though. Read all of it and practice knots with any short chunk of rope. +1 for the Boealps course. Its pretty intense (1 night a week and then pretty much at least 1 day a weekend) for the 3 months its going but well worth it ($350ish). You climb with the same team throughout the course so its a good way to find good partners and make friends. Registration is usually early feb and it fills up fast if you don't work at Boeing so get there early. They will tell you at the beginning that if you miss a weekend that you cant pass but that's not entirely true. You just have to make it up before they pass you and you cant miss the first few outings. The course says that if you can get the the top of Mt Si in 4 hours with a 30lb pack then you will be fine physically and that's pretty much true. As for gear buying, If you don't have backpacking gear, patrol the backpackinglight.com forums for great deals along with nwhikers.net and mountainproject.com Most of the stuff you need can be obtained used for about 50% or more off retail