Telemack

I've been hearing this a lot lately. "Oh man, Index was totally crowded. It ROCKED!" Not crowded - everyone had a place to climb and it wasn't bothersome - it was great to talk to other index fans and see people out - I'm not a solitude climber I guess - hate the yosemite crowds though - don't get me wrong... ---Have I stumbled onto Mr. Markell?

I personally recommend all the bad-ass routes I have done in the Valley that will impress you, but I can't give beta 'cuz it was so long ago---pre-cams, no sticky rubber, swamis---that they are way easy now. Seriously, gang, didn't you see "1-1/2 days, moderate to easy, first time"? Some of these recs. are not realistic. Try El Cap base, Manure Pile, Central Pillar, sure, but some of the harder/longer suggestions will hose a first-visit guy. A place not mentioned yet is Yosemite Falls, Jamcrack Route (5.7/5.9); then, Lazy Bum 10d/Bummer 10c, which can be led or TRed and are very quick and easy to find.

Daryl: It's Mack Johnson. I heard you want some route info; call (360)698-0625 OR email linezj@wavecable.com. I don't know if I'm receiving PMs or replies to my postings thru cc.com.

Looks like a good job. Is the "South" couloir the standard ascent? Also, do you know anything about skiing the humongous east snowfield? How to access, whether you can get at it from the summit, etc.? I can see it from my house on Hood Canal and would love to lay tracks on it some day.

Alphabet Rock has Dogleg 8+ and Meatgrinder 10a. -Several routes on R side of Icicle Buttress. On the far R side are Bumper Belay 10a and I Didn't Exhale 10c that I bolted 2 years ago and are not in guides. Start L, finish R for 5.8; anchors below Love Donut.

I thought you meant "That BARE would have caught you"...looked furry enuf.

I don't know if it's a glacier but there is sure a nice looking couloir/chute to the north right off the summit. I think Alpymar has skied it.

Hey, it was I, Telemack. I put it in last summer and it's called Erection Rejection, 5.10a or b, three bolts, sharing anchors with Erectile (hence the name). I also installed Underhanded last summer, below Overture. That is 5.10c, 5 bolts, starting from below the trestle on the black rock past the trail to Overture. Stop at the first anchors on the ledge for 10c, or keep going for an Underhanded Overture. Lucky, what did you name & rate your 6-bolter right of the We Did slab? Also, I did an OS of Late for Dinner last July and thought it was quite good, 11a fer sher.

Yo Lucky---I just started posting here after some lurking. Went to World Wall yestiddy. See ya this spring? Mack J

Skisports and I tried a route at the far west end of Middle East called Sleeping with the Fishes, 5.7, one star (FA Bill Robins/ Paul Certa, 1997). The book says Standard Rack, but you had better bring one 4" piece for a section of slightly overhanging offwidth crack with not much for feet. This route struck us both as pretty damn stiff for 5.7. Anyone done this route? Yah, 5.8, I led it one day when I did a FA or 2 w/ Bill and Paul. Their routes are often stiff, and chossy too. Bill was a trad stud.

Lots of one- to five pitch aid lines at Index Lower Town Wall (as well as superb free stuff). Narrow Arrow Direct, e.g. No nailing any thing free, of course. On the Upper, Town Crier and Green Dragon are good fer sher. A3 is solid at Index.

Hello, this is my 1st post here. Kelly and I did 6 pitches in cool, snow-showery conditions. With long undies, puffy belay jacket, and hand warmers in the chalk bag it ws OK. several of the routes were seeping; e.g. since both Son of Jesus and Girls in the Gym were wet I lead "Via Jesus": first 6 bolts of Viaggro, then finish up the (less) damp corner of Son of. Also did Aborigine before the breeze picked up. Good first day on rope. Back to BC skiing in 2 days!

Were Mitch Weber of Telemark Tips and Billy Joel actually twins separated at birth?