Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by gruntpltleader

  1. Trip: Mt. Washington - North Ridge Date: 8/5/2010 Trip Report: Just getting around to posting this as Grad school has taken all my free time. Last summer after being defeated on this route for a number of reasons, my wife took pity and decided to go along. we left the truck at the PCT and FS 500 and then made good time to the climbers trail. we stashed some water and made for the ridge. This time the snow was not too bad, but the bugs damn near bled us to death. We gained the ridge and fueled up. Upon reaching the notch. I broke out the rope and tied a sling for the wife. All of a sudden a voice comes from the top of the gendarme that makes the notch. A guy was standing on top of the gendarme and is wondering where the trail was and if he could join our rope team. I told him sure. Marvin had left his GF on the trail below the first gendarmes and was going to head up on his own. Better to be safe. I led the technical portion ( my first) by slung horns all the way up to the rappel block. Wifes first alpine climb We followed the path of least resistance to the top and enjoyed an awesome view. We downclimbed to the block and rapped the first pitch back to the notch. We skiied the scree to the big meadow west of the peak. In the middle of nowhere, we ran accross an outward bound camp site. Who Knew? Back to the truck and back to the coast. Truck to Truck in 12 hours and a good time was had by all. Gear Notes: slings, 60m rope, water, wife Outward bound repellent spray. Approach Notes: PCT to climbers trail then go up until out of rock. repeat in revers order
  2. Mt. Washington gear list...

    just got back last night. all I hauled was webbing and somerunners. I think I placed more than what was needed,but it was my first time. the Rap slings are very new and bomber.
  3. great climbing quotes

    " Reminds me of the time we were lost in the wilds of Afghanistan. We lost our corkscrew and were compelled to live on food and water for several days!!" -- W.C. Fields I think.
  4. Driving Screws!

    Surf's up dude. heat your screws with a lighter, and touch them to some Mr. Zoggs Sex Wax. They slide into wood like the Seventh Fleet into your sister!!( just kidding) it really works though
  5. geeking out on geology

    Let me know exactly where it is, but I don't think the the CRFB's came that far south. I think it is part of the Little Butte Volcanics or some of the other older cascade volcanics. College geology is kind of fuzzy yet, but look in Geology of Oregon, Orr and Orr. They would know if any one.
  6. Avalanche safety and detection.

    Just another newbie queston, but one that might save a life? Can anynone suggest a good avalanche safety course or good book as well? I'm in the Oregon area.
  7. boots, boots, boots?

    Help!! I finally decided to buy boots vs rent. I have heard good things about la sportiva makalu's. Any comments? Also is it really worth it to buy plastic when I will be doing very few if any winter climbs and no vert ice climbing? I know boots are judged very subjectivly, but a real objective comparison is what I need as like most I'm on a budget and like get most for the money!
  8. Orthopedic Surgeon (knee) Recommendations

    If you head into portland try Dr. Crawford at OHSU. I didn't tear the ACL, but completely tore the PCL, Meniscus, and a bone fragment when the PCL detatched. Portland Knee Clinic referred me to him. Great guy, and one of the best surgeons on the west coast. A big plus is to do as much physical therapy prior to the surgury as possible. It really speeds up the healing process, as your muscles will atrophy very quickly. I don't know how you feel about cadaver parts or allografts, but from what I read and what the doc's told me that they heal faster and stronger. You are not taking pieces of tendon from other parts of your leg/knee. It totalled my climbing time last spring, summer, but I am looking forward to this year. good luck!
  9. solution for chaffing

    I've been on a lot of forces marches with considerable weight for distance and time. The best bet for me was powder gold bond medicated or vaseline if you are really going to push it, IE 20 miles in 6-8 hours. And going commando with loose fitting clothing. Baby wipes were considered mission critical for long days in the feild where hygene can be poor at best. Nothing beats general conditioning, just hiking/road marching alot.
  10. boots, boots, boots?

    A buddy of mine gave me his merrells that fit really well and fit my crampons. He only used them a couple of times. I am looking into the soles idea. I plan on picking up some nikwax to waterproof them, unless some one has a better product. I wish I did live near seattle, but the Oregon Coast is home for me. Way to far away from anything cool.(except for surfing) Thanks for all of your input.
  11. boots, boots, boots?

    I went to the REI gear sale, but it was pretty picked over. I did try on multiple brands and got my sizes. time to hit EBAY thanks so much for the input.
  12. favorite bumper stickers of all time?

    on the back of huge ford pickup with a no shit rebel flag Roll me in honey and feed me to the lesbians!
  13. boots, boots, boots?

    I usually stuff a snaffle in each boot to dry them and empty the pellets out in the morning. Thanks for the comments 1 Question A. What the hell is a snaffle? As much as I detest REI I am planning to go to the REI used gear sale this weekend. also looking at ebay after I try on a few boots for sizes. Ranier won't be until next year at least. I kind of want to get the main Oregon volcanos first. 4 planned this summer and maybe a couple of day trips. I am concerned about plastic boots on long approach marches IE Jefferson, Baker, and others.
  14. Just how good is a snow fluke ?

    Kind of new to snow pro and I would like to know the benefits of using a fluke over pickets. I've heard good and bad about both. I have two MSR pickets 24's. Just wanted a few comments
  15. Just how good is a snow fluke ?

    Unfortunately, 2000 summits just doesn't fit in with life( wife, kids, jobs, deployments, eating, sleeping etc.) just the major peaks. Thanks.
  16. Just how good is a snow fluke ?

    I appreciate the input. All of the above is right what I had already heard with the exception that flukes can be a pain in the ass to rack. Upside is that they could be used as an emergency shovel. I have only climbed Mt. Hood south side route and now am hooked. The guy that I am learning from is a very experienced climber. He has a long list of summits and as a school teacher climbs all summer long. He has been doing it a long time and he carries a fluke and a picket among other appropriate protection. I have a half formed goal to climb all of the Cascades at least once, and will climb safely and conservatively as well. I don't want any freinds in the oregon guard to have to tvcome and save me!!!! May to September is really my climbing window. Once again any input would be great.