kevino

Climbed dragontail via serpentine ridge last wednesday. its been a while since i've had access to a computer thus the delay... route was 98% snow free, there was a 20 ft stretch of snow right at the start of the first pitch leading up to the big ledge. you can hike snow free to pretty much the base of the route. snow is continuous on the backside from the top of snow creek "glacier" to the top of assgard. other than that crampons, ice ax are really not needed. pretty chilly that day, never got about 45 and was quite windy. there was a party planning to do the backbone, hopefully that went well for them... thanks to my climbing partner for remember to bring a camera with a memory card!

Theres also the blue moon in june route...if i remember correctly it says, expect hard ice climbing

Slime mold.

Dane, Have you used that set up, on the above pictured quark, outside much? If so, did it work well as a second hand rest/matching thingy?

Yeah, I'd never thought of adding one till I saw Dane post this little creation of his. High enough you can fit one hand underneath. Its essentially what John was referring to in order to avoid more swinging. I haven't tried it yet...may try it next season for ice cragging, but not on alpine.

I'm not older but I went through the exact situation. My first pair of tools were the Aztars. Great for alpine, ok/pretty good for ice - but I found somewhat inversely related to the steepness. I then purchased the BD Reactors (got a good deal) to try out the leashless realm. I loved it! But the more I climbed with the reacters the less happy I was with them (not to mention bent picks, etc). So for this past winter/spring I sold off both pairs of tools and got me a pair of quarks. Amazing! I threw some grip tape on them and they are great. Plunging not a problem. Great for steep ice, moderate ice, alpine ice, moderate mixed etc. I spent 22+ days on ice this season, ranging from single pitch ice to alpine climbs. Best all around tool I've used to date. That said, I've also used the vipers and nomics. Vipers are pretty good, but I felt more solid with the quarks. Nomics were awesome, but I didn't find them practical to be my only pair (to each their own). Check out my or davidk's TR's to see where my tools have been this year (Canada, Montana, Washington...) I guess I didn't address the ability change...I felt I climbed better with the quarks than with the atzars or reactors. I also liked the addition of grip tape. Curious about how it would climb with the 2nd hand rest grivel trigger that Dane added...

You got those days open next week? Dragontail? Prusik? Stuart?

I've climbed there three times...never seen another soul. Fun little boulders.

Interesting. Looks like we all forgot we're not suppose to voice our opinion once the government has spoken!

How exactly did you undermind her report?

Maxtrax, How did you like the mammut 8.9 for alpine stuff? After lugging my rope up to my last alpine climb, I'd like to spoil myself with a thin/light rope in the mountains...Thanks

I believe Mr. DanielPatrickSmith or something like that said the route is in good shape...snow in the gully dry rock. He posted it around here somewhere...

Thank God they invented Grigri's.

Rob, I think that is how people are when they are inexperienced with the situation. Unfortunately I work in a place where dead people are not uncommon and that is not how it is. Just a counter view sticking up for humanity! I have not read this book but I'd rather not spend my time/money reading a opinions of a bitching woman. I get enough of that in my daily life.

Ivan does all of the above so he's pretty damn french.

Tom, That could work. If you camp at or near that ridge before you drop onto the glacier, you'd have (I presume) firm snow and easy travel up and over. Just get moving early, because like I said, the earlier you get into the couloir the better conditions you'll have the less crap will fall on you.

Sweet. Now if only I had the time...

Take lots of pictures!

If anyone is planning on doing it this weekend I would say break it into two days. First day, get to the snow early and/or bring skis. 2nd day, get to the base of the couloir by first light. We topped out of couloir around 1130 and that was too late. The upper part gets baked by the sun and will rain ice, rocks, etc on you, and many can attest it can hurt. Plus the more firm the snow the quicker travel. It gets light around 430 ish, so plan accordingly. That would be my advice.

haha. those have been since 5/24...at least

How many of you were there? That couloir would get crowded quickly...

Nice!

Anyone been up there recently? Wondering how the warm weather as affected the snow level? Thanks.

yes. as of thursday at least...

FUN! The route, despite the slogging, was well worth it. Sweet bivy looking at our climb from last year: David striking a pose in the morning sun...or zipping up his pants? I'm starting to think the N cascades are a little more photogenic than my home playground of the stuarts Cramped belay. However the grim faces are probably from them realizing that I am going to shower them with ice and snow Cruising the alpine ice chute Extreme camera tilt! In the wrong direction! Joke of the trip: Whats the difference between David and a blue bag? The blue bag is actually going home with the ranger!