Bosterson

There are a couple of boulders at Beacon, off to the left of the trail to the top (in the foresty area), Hwy 14 side. I'm not sure it's worth making an entire trip just for them though...

I think that's pretty much the only sane response to caring about route grading.

I second the notion to crash in a corner of someone else's site (ask or don't, though I'd bet the 6-pack would help), then get up at the crack of dawn to be first in line at the kiosk for a permit. I wouldn't go up into the talus field above Camp 4 because the rangers supposedly do patrol up there. (I think that's where they caught Chongo?) I've had people crash in my site, so I think if you just find another group of climbers (not tourists!), they'd be happy to let you join them - especially if you have beer.