MattMc

Kurt, a car in a similiar state to my '90 Toyota Corolla 5spd w/212k mi would kelley blue book for $1500. Trouble is finding one for sale (mine isn't). 40mpg, 36.7 when I drove from PDX to Moscow in 5hr flat... oh and they normally don't sway so much in the corners like on the Lochsa trip....just needs new shocks/struts (last done around 100k mi).

Another option is a Toyota diesel engine swap if you are mechanically inclined. Any 4-cylinder 1985-1995 Toyota truck or 4Runner will work. See more here: http://vpizza.org/~jmeehan/toyotadiesel/

tvashtarkatena , so which house is it [where the yardsale was]? The one with the grass or the one to the lower right of it? I'm guessing the latter.

I'm calling around determining who owns it, stay tuned...

Kevin's response: From: Kevin Pogue Subject: Re: ice in Dayton WA? Date: January 29, 2007 7:02:02 AM PST To: Matt McAdoo Hi Matt- I climbed that about 10 years ago with Jim Cunningham. I'm sure yours was the 2nd ascent. I noticed that it had formed up again when we were coming back from the weeping wall a week or so ago. I remember there was a short steep bit at the bottom followed by long slabby section that we basically soloed. I also remember thrashing around in those trees near the top. I believe we rapped off of a couple of those trees that we tied together with some webbing. I have no idea who owns or manages the land. We just went over and climbed it. I've just been calling it the "Dayton Gully". kevin

Yah, I shot him a line earlier. Will probably hear back on Monday morn. The ice was pretty hero,

A group of us (six total) from WSU/UI climbed a 95m WI2+ route Saturday opposite the Dayton WA high school baseball field and across the Touchet river. David Pogue who climbed it 10 years ago (see e-mail below) has been calling it the "Dayton Gully". Kurt posted a pic further down. Looked a lot steeper from the straight on vantage across the river. Still a fun day though with a couple people getting their first time on ice and a short multi-pitch. Can be soloed and then rapped only because downclimbing would eat into time at the pub. There weren't any webbing remains up top and I had to clean all this lovely tenacious and thorny brush [stream bed blackberry I'm told, 1/4"+ thick) for the last 10+ meters to the top of the ice. Yet again I forgot to bring brush cutters but the adze did the trick by chopping the offending plants where they emerged from the ice (about 60 deg left side).

Kurt don't forget the bury an alcoholic beverage with hidden avy beacons. Then have someone run a mile then go looking for beacons. After finding each one they chug the beverage and then on to the next. Good for simulating the onset of shock, sorta. Credit goes to Gaper_Jeffy from a few years back. though I added the running bit for that extra fun effect.

Nelson, BC: Oso Negro location: http://www.osonegrocoffee.com/

Bug, here's the descrip from Big Sky Ice: Seizure Suit Scary 150' II, 5.9, WI4 X FA 96-97 Approach: Located above the trailhead on Parking Lot Wall where the 5.10 rock route Leisure Suit Larry is found. climb: climb rock (5.9 friction in crampons) to reach thin unprotectable ice decent: rappel route

Have a DVR? record and U-Tube it for the rest of us, plz. Just saw the WG film at Best of Banff tonight

Ah, it already had a name... so much for naming it "Our Awesome First Winter Ascent!!" I'd like to add to approach notes that studded tires are aid.

So from the looks of Petzl/CM's literature and from what I heard from a rep, the crush washers on the Quark/Aztar/Aztarex are single use and are to be replaced at every pick change. Anyone actual follow this? Any issue with multiple pick swaps on the same washer set? Seems like a not so good setup if one wants to use a 3mm for some delicate stuff and then swap over to a 4mm for mixed, etc. Or if one has a dedicated ice only pick set and a used mixed pick set to swap back and forth. Cheers! Matt

Bug, can you post the route info for Seizure Suit Scary. Kurt said he wanted to take a whack at it . I can't find my copy of Big Sky ice. Kurt borrow Jake's. Hyperspud probably has some copies in stock.

...and high stepping like that puts one's scrotum in unnecessary jeopardy of getting snagged by a heel point should the 'pon sheer [girls 1, guys 0]