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Everything posted by octopuswithafez
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[TR] Chair Peak - NE Buttress 9/9/2007
octopuswithafez replied to octopuswithafez's topic in Alpine Lakes
I think the route rates at a 5.5/5.6, but that's about a couple of moves on the third of four mostly fourth-class pitches. We approached via the new Snow Lake trail but the better route is from the source lake overlook and up through the talus to the notch east of the base of the climb. Plus I would climb over with my pack and then do the rap down one of the two chimneys, otherwise you'll have to scramble up from the scree to the base of the climb again. You'll see some webbing up high on pins, those are rap anchors for the winter route. -
Trip: Chair Peak - NE Buttress Date: 9/9/2007 Trip Report: scottp and I set off as a couple of "off the couch" alpinists and decided to do the NE route as a mellow alpine trip. Couldn't ask for better conditions. We hit the trailhead around 7 AM, just before the Snow Lake hordes arrived ( there were about 30 cars already in the lot ). we decided to take the new trail up which resulted in a bushwhack across some very nice blueberry patches (yum!). Finally got to the talus fields and headed up to the ridge Passed by a solo hiker who had camped on the ridge the previous night and then made the base. Looking up from the base we headed up the protrusion the left to gain the trees and then onto the reddish band ( with nice cracks for a gear anchor ) and then onto the last band of trees. We did past a bolted anchor more to the right of where we were climbing. We also allowed a soloist with a mountain rescue hat on to pass on by. I am not sure I'd want to be below a party on that route. The rock was mostly solid but definitely enough loose stuff to make me glad for my helmet. Note bolted anchor in the middle right of photo , we were more left of the normal route. At the base of the summit block, the soloist is on top. Your humble reporter in the obligatory summit photo. While we where chatting w/ the soloist on top, a third party arrived from the western route, A pro guide ( Martin ) and his clients. They said with some work, that side has some potential. Coming down the rap chimney to the scree field on the south side of the buttress, faster than downclimbing/rapping the route. Although care should be made when descending to the rap station to make sure its clear of other parties, its a shooting gallery for dislodged rocks. The hike back had us passing 72 hikers and 10 dogs from the source lake trail fork to the cars... Back at the car at 2:30 car to car : 7:30 Gear Notes: Small rack ( a few cams to 2" , set of stoppers) several runners rap slings Approach Notes: pretty straight-forward on the old snow lake trail to the ridge and then cutting across the talus up to the base of the climb
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[TR] Mailbox Peak - The Trail Route 8/21/2007
octopuswithafez replied to AlpineK's topic in Alpine Lakes
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Thread police! Thread police!
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I bitch about how the legislature held an emergency session to pass a tax onto a people whom already had voted against said funding...
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Good, I hope they all leave. I'm tired of my tax dollars subsidizing pro sports arenas. I'm still at a complete loss as to why our football team and baseball team both needed their own fucking stadiums. What a waste of space and money. Pfft. First Pro Team? Pls. No love for the Seattle Metropolitans?
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Nude blonde, gold stilettos and a Ferrari BERLIN (Reuters) - A mysterious blonde paid a visit to a petrol station shop in the small eastern German town of Doemitz on Sunday -- wearing nothing but a pair of golden stilettos and a thin gold bracelet. The tall, slender woman strolled into the shop in the town of Doemitz on the warm afternoon and bought cigarettes, petrol station employee Ines Swoboda told Reuters on Monday. "I wasn't surprised because she's come in naked before -- she's a very nice woman," Swoboda said, adding none of the other customers were bothered. The woman could have faced charges of creating a public disturbance if anyone had complained. A quick-witted customer did, however, snap pictures of the woman believed to be about 30 years old as she walked back to a waiting Ferrari and climbed into the passenger seat. Several of those photos appeared in the German media on Monday. yahoo news German newspaper article
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Exit 38 comes to mind around we did rock and the trestle, I would vote for Mounties wall on Erie but you need some long runners to set the anchors.
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This is cc.com. If our voices weren't half-muffled by the wrinkly balloon knot and half digested corn of our own asshole, no one would be able to understand us. That should be the banner of the website
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Not true, It could be done and better. Seen many shows on that. Even stood where the shots were fired. Not impossible. You are watching the wrong shows.... What show told you 6 shots??? Whoops my bad......how many shots? Goerge Thorogood says 3. One bourbon, one Scott, and one beer Hey if we keep quoting each other.....lets see how small we can get the original quote!!!!! I'm crushin ur head! Crush on!!!!! the infinite quote project. woot. Sweet
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That why the said Kennedy was shot for money. Trying to stop Nam. Its all conspiracy shit for people that don't want to think. Easier to blame a politician. Ok....smarty pants.....what is your take on why JFK was shot? OK, I'm going to say this one more time. Listen up: JFK was shot as part of an elaborate conspiracy to assasinate Lee Harvey Oswald. End of story. Now, can we please move on, already? Man, I f*cking loved his band!
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Fo' Shizzle, that's going to be my new crib!
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Trip Report Mt. Garfield - Infinite Bliss 7/8/2007
octopuswithafez replied to kevbone's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
Methinks someone posted a TR about rapping in the rain that was quite hair-raising... -
Kay what? ADD? uhhuu? OH yeah, anyone know of climbing possibilities? I know the rock is all volcanic and probably a death trap for human hand flesh.... Our plan is to do a lot of hiking and cliff jumping, but some climbing would be even cooler! climbing in hawaii Mokuleia boasts over 50 distinct developed routes, ranging from 5.7 to 5.13a. Routes feature dihedrals, cracks, thin faces, overhangs, aretes and slab, and require no more than 12 draws (not counting anchor) for sport leading. The Mokuleia site also features a support box containing rugs, helmets, first aid, etc. and a stretcher is stashed nearby for emergencies. Though a little out of date and missing information on newer routes, there is a small topo with route names and ratings inside the lid of the box, along with some friendly guidelines for climbers.
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Warning: This entry documents a highly experimental procedure that should not be emulated. Follow-up entries will document healing and complications — which to be very clear for those considering this, can in theory include permanent blindness! Yesterday, just after BMEfest and just before ModProm, we did the rather stress-inducing experiment of doing the first three “eyeball tattooing” experiments on sighted eyes. The procedures were done by Howie (LunaCobra.net), with photos by Lane Jensen (of Tattoo and Piercing Magazine). The first procedure was done on Pauly Unstoppable using a traditional hand-poked technique. The eye distorted significantly but it was difficult to get ink to hold. Probably about forty strikes in all were done but so far it seems like limited ink held. BMEZine
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scottp and I ran up to Index last weekend and found Private Idaho to be in good shape but Hag Crag was quite the green patch. Didn't have cameras so we couldn't capture the row of bolts poking out the moss...
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Trip Report Mt. Garfield - Infinite Bliss 7/8/2007
octopuswithafez replied to kevbone's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
I'd agree, that's about where I turned around on it last year. It also helped that it was about 85 in full sun and I was feeling a little sketched on the choss. Not so much going up but I was thinking of the descent, that got me. Plus, factor in the time for rapping down...especially down the low angle friction slab..... -
Mt. Erie in the rain shadow....
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Guide Books for Shandong Prefecture, PR China
octopuswithafez replied to sirwoofalot's topic in Climber's Board
Shandong Huijie Rock-climbing Club 0531-88031508 Phone them up -
I hear a popular shirt worn by Danish-Muslim youth is something along the lines of "2030: The Year We Take Over"