AlpineMonkey

Nice job Kevin! What are you gona name it??? I thought you just told me it was cloudy and miserable...I see blue sky in your freakin' pictures.

If anyone has any weekend updates, please post it up. I'm trying to figure out what to do tomorrow. Today Denise, Freeman, Kyle, Mike, and I had a party on The Smear in Leavenworth.

"DUDE, do you know your walking in a famous ski run" -Quote from annoynmous skiier

Dane, want to partner up and climb NY gulley on Saurday?

People think climbing is crazy... I watched two skiiers come down the slot couloir the other day and thats just crazy. Thats only a moderate ski too right?

I didn't lead our second pitch that may have been the crux, but it had about 3 moves off the deck that were a little thin and hard. After that it seemed sort of like moderate thin ice/dirt climbing, a little run out, but not unreasonable. This was one of the rare times I went into a climb thinking I was going to get my ass kicked and came out thinking, that was sure an overall easy climb. Pitch 1 - 65 meters and easy ice Pitch 2 - 65 meters thin and delicate, not strenuous Pitch 3 - 20 meters, ungraceful chimney, but very short Next - bunch of easy simul climbing, one or two moves where you had to watch your step Pitch 4 - a few moves of moderate rock and done...

Thinking about going up Saturday, climbing Sunday, hike around look at stuff and mess around, then hike out Monday. I just want to spend some time in the mountains.

I was thinking about trying to climb McClellan Peak (near Prusik Peak) this weekend if the weather is good. I have tried to climb it twice in winter now, both times coming up from the Snowlake Trail. Its a long way...What are thoughts to approaching this peak. Would going up past Colchuck Lake be just as long and time consuming? There is a beautiful route that shoots up the E. Face. The only place that I have ever found any refference to it is in the WA Ice book. It mentions something about a rummor of a route on it or something. I don't understand why I haven't ever heard of anyone doing it. Below is a picture of the route.

that thing looks big

Do you have any pictures? I heard the opposite from somone else, saying it was not in and that the top pitch had fallen out.

Why don't you guys go bag the FWA of all the other hundered towers and walls in there too.... Nicely done

I think Ade/Mark went a different way then Wayne and I. From your description it sounds like you went up and left on thin ice after the first pitch. We went straight up the middle on thin ice. Mark led this and set up a belay when the rope went tight in a chimney. I finished it off with a couple of sterenuous moves up a chimney, stepped out onto a chock stone and up. Did you guys climb the thin ice smear I have pictured in the route in the middle? or did you guys go into the far left corner?

Wayne and I decided to hit up this route today. Thought I would add some nice pictures. We found amazing conditions, an awsome route. Wayne said conditions were probably once and a lifetime this good, I'll take his word for it. We were able to free the entire route, an easy nine hours car to car. The route: Wayne making quick work of the crux: Finishing her up:

Hey Paul, Have you seen the Jameson Lake climbs recently? I was wondering if the one on the left might be good to go, I forgot what its called...?

I'm glad I asked about Josephine Crag or I would have never known. I really like alpine cragging and will for sure go up there this summer and check it out for myself. I've done several routes up Toketie Wall, done much of the Rat Creek Group stuff, spent a lot of time up Ingalls Creek, what else is out there in terms of remote (or not so remote) alpine craggs.

I googled it and found this by Mark Shipman: "The Recurve Dihedral has a plastering of thin snow & verglas, looking decidedly unappealing, with a huge mud/snow deposition-cone issuing from the drainage at river-level. Pray for cold temps, now, and what remains should tighten up nicely... " Are there ice climbs on this thing too, or something?

Wow, thanks guys. Thats sweet looking. Have any of you been up there and climbed it? Are there more reported routes up there, or is that the only one? Looks kind of neat. How do you approach it, is it from the Dury drainage? Do you guys know who did the FA of that route just out of curiosity? I'm going to put that on my summer plans.

Anyone know what this feature is? Its on my USGS map just NE of Drury Falls. Looked a little on the internet but could not find much.

I want to get out and climb some ice this upcoming weekend, if anyone is interested send me a pm. I have three climbs of interest and would be down for whatever fits your goals the most. They are, in no particular order of interest, "What do Ardenvors Eat? - Entiat (est 5), "Drury Falls" - Leavenworth (est 4), or "Dropline" - Strobach (est. 4+ to 5). From recent trips I know all of these lines look to be in and climbable. If anyone has any interest, again let me know the eariler the better. EDIT: partner found.

A few more photos to add to the mix stolen from kublaicon: Brian intially tried the left side of the pillar, but came back down because it was pretty scarry. Then I decided to give the right side a go (pictured below) and was able to gain more secure climbing above. I don't get the opprotunity to climb ice nearly as much as Bryan, so after climbing the difficult bottom was completely pumped. I climbed about 2 more body lengths above this picture, then lowered down and Bryan climbed back up and finished her off...Style? 8D A little size perspective, Bryan at the belay in the red jacket: Erik and Conor found some fatty ice on ice dreams: The Tongue and Robot Waitress:

Yeah I went out there and had some fun. I like easy shitty climbs though.

Last week I counted about a dozen climbable lines up in the Entiat River Road vicinity. Heres a few pics. Its hard to get good ones because of all the trees. Entiat - Tyee Falls - the easiest looking approach is accross private property, not sure if climb is on private land Unclimbed/(or at least Unreported) Right of the road near mp 19, on Forest Land. There is a big turnout and a sign saying Forest Land and gives details of the area. I forgot what its called, Falls Creek? Maybe? What do Ardenvoirs Eat? Not sure if this climb really does have property issues or not, does not appear to. Looks super fat. Keep going up the road past mp21, you must walk or ski this and there are climbs absoultly everywhere. All unreported to my knowledge. Here is just one.

Went for a walk up Entiat River road. Saw at least a dozen lines to be climbed, about half not on private land. "What do Ardenvoirs Eat" looks supper, supper fat. Along with Tyee Falls, but thats on private land.

A couple years ago (mabey 2) when it got supper fat. I think they rated it a 4/4+ in the condition