jfs1978

Frankly...we might all "struggle with it" a bit if it was our own nephew or niece (or son or daughter)...etc. How we each would respond would vary...but I'm not about to criticize anyone for having some trouble dealing with this kind of news. It's horrible and sad. We all cope how we can. Some with more emotion than others. So why the criticism? We are not involved. Let the family deal.

might be worth it to do the same here... None of us were there. One of the climbers has semi-defended himself on the taco. No purpose served in slamming them here w/o full knowledge of the incident or the conditions or the party's mental state after finding the body. It just serves no purpose... Tragic no matter what occurred afterwards.

Oh man - I visited Lijiang once when I was a kid. Amazing area. I wasn't a climber at the time - I missed out. So beautiful. Would love to go back. SW China has some great scenery.

Thanks R. Not too anal...or else I'm equally anal. The cable and trigger setup on Mastercams has always raised a couple questions for me. Interesting shot of one in action. Still useable but not like a good ol' Alien. =) That said...my Metolius dollar goes a LOT farther than my CCH dollar so...

ah yes...aliens. i wish...but I get a better deal on Metolius soooo...

Crillz - no specific wall routes at this point...just expanding my standard rack slowly to prep for a couple later this year. Trying to figure out where to start. Think Valley classics, nothing obscure...yet...Lurking Fear, Nose, etc. Gear budget is of course rather limited...trying not to waste money. Currently set with doubles to triples thru C4 #3s and singles above with some smaller mastercams and a smattering of C3s and micro TCUs. Offsets are an unknown for me...i.e. how many and what sizes for a typical wall rack. Yes...like everyone...I can never have enough toys. Thanks underworld. js working on an assortment of other aid tools...as I slowly migrate over to the dark side.

Anyone have some good recommendations for good offset sizes to set a rack up with (for Yosemite)? Other than "all of 'em"? =) Also...am limiting myself to Metolius. TCU vs Mastercams? thanks, js

One more shout out for a kid that can rip it up outside ... not just a plastic monkey (as impressive as that form of gymnastics may sometimes be). Watched a 5.13 redpoint go down at Smith - count me impressed. Be proud RuMR.

Kevin, I'd also encourage you not to leave the table. As mentioned above...many climbers don't have anything against actual PLB usage and availability. Making it mandatory is the problem - for many reasons. Supporting legislation isn't a great way to go about entering this discussion regardless of your reason...imho. You start from that position and you will get a LOT of opposition from this crowd...before you have a chance to even enter the discussion. The only message that support for these bills sends is that you have no interest in a discussion, are uninformed, have not done your research, and have no intention of doing any research. Whether that's your intent or not...that is what I hear. On another note...it looks like your company provides only ACR products for rent. The size and weight of the unit alone keeps me from considering one...and I would be unlikely to use one even if available for rent. Any chance you will offer the newer McMurdo FastFind in the future? Much smaller and lighter.

Monty thanks for what you and PMR are doing. It is appreciated. I do hope that as you are working with the OR legislature you emphasize that a requirement placed specifically on climbers is both unfair and ineffective if cost reduction is the goal. If climbers are required to carry a "signaling device" then every other outdoor user group requiring occasional SAR services should be required to as well - that means snow-mobilers, mushroom pickers, hunters, fishermen, back-country skiers, boaters, hikers, snowshoers, winter campers, and every other user group that accounts for more SAR calls and expense than climbers ever have... I'm certainly not advocating this...but I'd be willing to bet that if someone DID, the legislation would get shut down in a hurry. cheers.

Just saw some of the info in the Ice Climbing forum. Doh. Should have checked there first. Still, any info for an out-of-stater is welcome...

I have four days off...starting...um... now. To be honest I don't expect to be able to get anything big done on such short notice. And the last forecast I looked at for the area looked like The Suck (wet and warm) so... That said...any conditions reports for the Leavenworth area? North of there? Would anything be worth making a mad dash up there for, right now? Gradewise...hard to say...WI/AI4ish, low commitment and reasonable approaches considering my short window? Anything to recommend if I get another 4 day stint (coming from Oregon) later in the season? Bit of a gaper request. Thanks for any beta.

you might have some good luck finding information if you look in the Mt Rainier NP forum... The site has a search engine to look up trip reports...might want to give that a try.

don't know'bout'the bone's, but my POTD award wears serious merit, and you my'man have earned it w/ the no-doubt wicked-ardous research that musta been necessary to root-out this gem Woot woot! serious merit indeed. I'll be mounting the award on my bathroom wall with a couple 3/8 inch Rawls - so as to admire it from my throne. Hand-drilled on lead of course.

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heh, we were up the day before. I came close but would have felt too guilty bootying 18 draws off one pitch. I think I ended up with one old 'biner though...I'll consider it a booty tax... ah well. who had to leave all those behind though.

ok thread drift here. sorry ivan but your thread reminded me... Just curious if anyone knows anything about the entire PR bolt ladder having draws hanging on it? Every bolt. Weird... If someone was working on freeing that face...I might expect four or five...not 18. We left 'em all hanging a couple days ago...despite the massive booty temptation. Just curious if anybody knows anything. Which one o' y'all's second had a little epic hissy fit and refused to follow? edit...heh, come to think of it, maybe Joel's got new tactics for beating his last time...

so...camped at the Turtle (9,200) for the Fuhrer Finger this past weekend. Woke up at 3am to the sound of my foodbag ripping down the Wilson outside my tent... "What the...?!?!?!" Hop out the tent...two yellow eyes lookin' (or smirking) back at my headlamp...my pack opened up...and my foodbag gone. I got some satisfaction out of the fact that it apparently had gotten away from the thief and was on it's way into a crevasse somewhere below. At least the little bastard didn't get my food either. We split the remaining food up and everything was fine...and we all came back more fashionably fit and trim. So...that was a first for me...couple thousand feet up the glacier I considered the food safe... my bad... So keep an eye out for critters y'all.

Trying to cram a "workout" in before work tomorrow...just SS if the going is good. Anybody have some current upper mountain snow conditions to report? Slogalicious thigh deep pow-pow...or has the wind kept things manageable enough for a quick ascent? No skis. I have yet to see the light. Sloggin' it out is the way of the true warrior...anyhoo. Yes, am looking at NWAC. Considerable above 6k. thanks and cheers.

Some posts on the taco about it. Alpinist Re-launch on ST

Odd. I'd expect much BETTER service at REI. A friend's skis were mis-drilled and they didn't even bat an eye when they figured it out. Chucked the screwed up skis and remounted on a new pair free of charge - no questions asked. Who knows, maybe the shop-tech got an earful from the boss later...but they treated my buddy right. Point being, I think that's the kind of treatment you should expect from a decent shop. Not the bs that Rotary got.

heh - stimulating. That's about right. A few whiteouts and a bit breezy...haven't been up there in anything crazy. I usually decide I like a cold beer and a warm fireplace too much to go up when things get nutty up there. But hell, nothing like a planned mini-epic to keep cabin fever at bay...

Dang it. Three days off this week and a partner available for either NF or Reid HW or whatever...just in time for the next batch of crap to move in. Figures. Cragging it is. Anybody planning on heading up? I may still go if it doesn't seem to be getting too bad...but NF is probably off... Just publicly b****ing and whining. Pardon my moment of weakness.

No cattle-path to the summit yet. But that won't last long... Hurry up. Some pics...

WageSlave, if i could get my lame-a$$ home connection to upload the pics I would have...sorry. You aren't missing much though. Cheap-ass digi-cam pics and that side of the mountain was still in shade when i was there so not much to see really. I'll upload a couple if I can get things to work though. cheers. =)