Ptown_Climber1

Nice job! Wow, only 40 people on South Spur? That's a ghost town for that route! I did this climb last summer, but bushwacked our way from Cold Springs on where we 'thought' the Around-the-mountain trail most likely was....I like your way better. Yeah, a lot of people underestimate how many crevasses lurk on Mazama, but believe me, if you've ever been up there in late summer, it's a wake up call....this is the best time of year on Mazama Glacier......would like to see some pics. I'm heading up North Ridge on Sunday, weather permitting......

Nice job guys.....I'm an OSU grad...wish I was climbing peaks like you guys when I was in school....good effort!! Shasta is one of my favorites, but it's a ways drive from Portland....have you done Hotlum Bolam yet? North side of Shasta is beautiful and less populated.....My next stop on Shasta will probably be Casaval Ridge. Great pics...makes me want to get back down there!

Sweet! Those route pics really help....I didn't realize it was so close towards Leuthold. Looks like you ascend on right side of that buttress while Leuthold and the hourglass are on left? Looks like a great climb...definitely top of the list for next season.

Here's a good, but sobering read along these lines..... http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/ghostsofrainier/fall302.shtml

On where they ended up....must admit I've been wondering myself when some unsuspecting climber on the north side might find something melted out......my guess is that they're entombed on upper reaches of the Elliot Glacier. Being the north side, it'll take longer to melt out in that locale....of course there's always the possibility they ended up in a crevasse, which then in that case, the answer to your question would be probably be 'no.' As far as I know there are a number of climbers on Hood that have simply disappeared, never to be seen again. Sort of hard to imagine, but it happens. And on mountains like Rainier, it's much more common. I think it was in the early eighties or so that 12 or 13 (or more?) climbers were hit by ice just below Ingraham IceFall and buried and sealed in the crevasses below to this day....pretty grim. Interestingly, on Adams a couple years ago, they finally recovered the body of a climber that had gone missing in 1980. So, it may take a while unfortunately.

Wow, great pics! Pictures really capture the perspective up there.....I really have wanted to climb that route, but it'll probably have to wait until next year. Had you guys climbed it before, or is it pretty obvious where to ascend, as far as gullies go? Nice job.

Great looking trip! That's the type of report that I really enjoy reading....very informative as well. I was always curious about what path to take up West Crater, so your highlighted lines were helpful. I can just imagine the zoo it must of been like up there! Spot any blue jeans?

That was classic! I especially like the intermittent clips of the doll sheep (or whatever those things are that are all over Adams...) cruisin along...good stuff.

Thanks a lot guys....that helps. Sounds like earlier the better-good to know. Some of the pics I've seen are impressive. I was wondering about the crampons, as it does sound like a good amount of rock scrambling, mixed in with a few snow traverses......could be popping them on and off perhaps it sounds. Maybe I'll sneak that bottle of red into one my companions packs! Although I prefer a little of the corn whiskey my self!

I'm planning to climb it this summer....looks sort of intriguing, but not much out there on it. I love the idea of getting away from south side hordes....climbed Mazama Glacier last summer and enjoyed that experience, but still haven't ventured onto the north side; looks like some fantastic views of Adams glacier.....any idea when access to trailhead typically clears of snow? Seems like the ridge is pretty straightforward unless there's something I'm missing? Any general opinions of the route from those that have climbed it? Thanks!

http://www.matthewweaver.com/mountaineering/mthood0302.html That IS a pretty good description...I've referred to it in the past. If weather is good, and you know the features of the land, it's pretty hard to get lost on this route.......that is, of course, if you aren't trying to climb it in white-out conditions...I've turned around at the saddle before when it was just socked in by cloud cover...but I'm a little conservative around that sort of thing....

I was thinking the same things....weather forecasts are handy things....and I don't get how this keeps happening with people carrying a gps, then not being able to use them.

I climbed Leuthold two weeks ago. We ended up doing a A LOT of postholing. There was a thinner crust of ice over several inches of soft snow. Traversing the Reid and climbing up to the hourglass was slow going because of this.....Surprisingly to me the hourglass was in great shape. There wasn't much debris falling through it, and the surface was much more compacted. Of course, this was two weeks ago, and that route can change in a day, so for what it's worth......

Yeah, that's what I hear....I've had my eye on Reid Headwall the last couple seasons, but want to climb it with someone who's done it before....I was trying to follow it the other day, but couldn't quite see the line of ascent.

Trip: Mt. Hood - Leuthold Couloir Date: 4/26/2007 Trip Report: Well almost two months later than hoped, and with a whittled down group of three die-hard, masochistic freaks, Mt. Hood was summited yesterday at approximately 2 PM- a mere 11 and a half hours after they embarked from Timberline. Let's cut to the chase here. This one was all about pain folks, in its purest form. What we had originally intended to be a two day climb was squeezed into one. And while temperatures hovered in the twenties, with a clear starry night above, the snow wasn't well consolidated, making for a post-hole nightmare that I or my legs won't soon forget. This commenced immediately after we left the groomed climbers' trail at the top of Palmer and headed for the saddle. After roping up at the saddle we began what I will always remember as the traverse from hell. Crossing the Reid Glacier and ascending the couloir while postholing to the knees for seemingly interminable hours made us all wonder, "Why the f*ck to do we do this to ourselves?" (Suffice it to say, we were treated to no boot paths until we would meet the south side route on the summit ridge....one step up....one step down...) But soon thereafter our age old question was answered as we entered the heavens gate-ish, rime encrusted walls of the hourglass and the Leuthold Couloir and were reminded of what we already knew-mountains are temples of nature....the couloir is essentially 2000 feet of straight up, calf busting hell, but the flip-side is that it's a feast for any mountaineer's eyes. You just don't see that on the typical day in the trenches of everyday life. No Iraq war, no George Dubya, no Wal-Marts and strip malls, no American Idol....sorry, I digress. Anyhow, I was also pleasantly surprised with the good condition of the route through the hourglass. The snow firmed up nicely through it, allowing for a nice break from the post-holing we'd become accustomed to below. After what seemed another eternity, we topped out of the couloir, only to see another 700 foot snow dome goliath glaring down at us with not too different of an expression as the one Sebastian was giving me as I plunged onward, the rope tugging him along. And then.....the summit ridge. Words won't do it justice; pictures will try to, but you just gotta see it....Hmm, 1000 ft. drop to the left, 900 ft slalom ride into the Devil's Kitchen on the right....don't want to pick either of those poisons, thank you...we'll place a couple pickets (one apparently in a cornice.....sorry Dean!) and nervously cross this final obstacle. Summit was, well the summit....always outstanding, but tainted with the thought in the back of your mind.....'now we have to get down'. We descended the old chute since Pearly Gates reportedly offer 70 degree ice in parts, and well, we weren't looking for that type of fun at this point!....The Old Chute was slow going though on soft slippery snow....we were reduced to down climbing substantial parts of it. When we finally traversed over to hogsback, the sulphur fumes that greeted us made even that respite an uncomfortable, and for some of us, a noxious one. By almost 6 PM we made it back to the lodge, now transformed into hobbling old men.....we couldn't get the server to get us that pitcher of IPA fast enough. Much delirious, non-sensical conversation was had as we gawked back up at old Hood.....I posed the question of how much money it would take for us all to turn tail and head directly back up the mountain all over again. Scoffed at the notion, we did, but we all knew that in the back of our minds, a plan for a return visit was already in its infancy...what do you say guys, Wy 'East next time? Maybe Sunshine Route? Cooper Spur? I can't wait. Gear Notes: rope, pickets, one ice axe, although two might of come in handy at points in the couloir.....not necessary though.

No, in fact the old chute variation meets the ridge just to the right of it. You'll see it, but you'll take a right turn and won't have to deal with it.

I took a team of three up there....we were roped up, but didn't see the need to set any protection in the couloir....it was in good shape and footing wasn't a problem in there. I did however set a couple pickets going across the summit ridge.....there's one down step there that is a little hair raising....

We also were up there yesterday.....came up through Leuthold .....snow was very soft all the way....talk about a leg burner.....seemed there was a thin crust of ice over 7-8 inches of real soft snow.....an exception to this was hourglass, which was in great condition. Descended old chute....this was aggravatingly a soft, slippery mess later in the day. I'll post a trip report today, hopefully with some pics.....

I've climbed it twice, most recently last early July....be prepared to traverse over to the route from Cold Springs, as road into Bird Creek won't likely be open.Good news is that you'll likely have Sunrise Camp to yourself..... I can also tell you that Mazama is heavily crevassed.....I have some great pictures to prove it....I climbed it in September of 2001 and it was almost impassable due to a maze of large crevasses.....there was a pretty dicey snow bridge we had to cross at one point....now last July it was mostly filled in, and it was pretty much a walk up. We still roped up however, as there were a few opening up even then, and I can tell you that when you've seen them in late season, it sort of reminds you to take that extra precaution. It's a real nice climb though.....have fun!

Alright, you've talked me into it BillBob...let's do it. Are there seat warmers?

Well, with that line of thought, none of us have truly climbed Hood I guess....heck, take it a step further, "Only those that have hoofed it from Portland have truly climbed the mountain!" That argument goes on and on.....Still on that point, should I just take a snowmobile then up to Hogsback since it would get me there, and it's pretty much a walk up anyhow to there? Where does it end? I see your point, but like I said, I guess I'm just a glutton for punishment starting from where the pavement ends.....

Something always seemed a little wrong about riding up in a snowcat for the first 2500 feet.....my pride won't allow it....or maybe I'm just a glutton for needless punishment.

I headed up on Saturday morning, set to camp at the saddle with a couple buddies, but decided to turn around due to horrendous snowstorm, and the enticement of cold beer and the Final Four back at the bar.....snowshoes came in handy, but I wouldn't even consider trying to snowshoe up hogsback; If it's that soft, just pop the crampons off; I can't remember having to do that either though personally....

I'm curious to hear how it goes...I was supposed to take a couple guys up through Leuthold on Sunday/Monday, but chickened out because of short weather window. Have a good climb!

Jamin, on the one hand you say that you describe climbing through the Pearly Gates, but then say you climbed the chute in the picture, which above poster clearly states is the old chute....which was it? I'm not trying to be overly critical, just trying to get accurate updated info on route conditions.....I'm heading up there next weekend (hopefully) via the Leuthold and am trying gauge what the old chute looks like for our descent.....thanks.