northwest_dad

Dallas was a truly motivated and amazing person. I climbed the Northwest Face route 5.10 with him last year on Liberty Bell and was amazed at his competence and honored to be climbing with him, it was on the day before his 70th birthday. His life long feats are amazing and a climber, guidebook author and running coach. His life was an inspiration to all to never let age or status quo dictate the passions you have. Dallas, we will miss you greatly.

Hey dude, Try these guys out. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cascades_mountaineers/ They do trips and stuff.

I don't know, claws are built in, if I had them I'd use them and call it legit.

If you're in need of a partner in Central Oregon try here, http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CO_RockClimbers/

Hey all, check this out if you want to connect with climbers in the area. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CO_RockClimbers/

Freestanding bouldering cave for sale. Main wall is about 8 ft wide and 35 degrees overhung. It's about 9 ft tall and has about 200 holds of various sizes. It also has two small vertical sections for kids and stuff. Asking $500, check pics out at http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/spo/310233450.html Would consider partial trade for a new rope. Give Ryan a shout at 360-834-3216

Oddly enough, self established areas are usually very biased in when the developer writes their descriptions. Especially ones that were supposed to be a secret until the developer wanted a pat on the back....... Anyone every been to Jack's Canyon? *Presto!* you climb 5.12! I'd say, get a feel for the routes from others who have done them and include that info for the routes. I say take your own advice and don't put any ratings difficulty or sketchyness so everyone will try harder climbs and not worry about anyones ego.

Hey, anyone have an odd # group or need a partner for Sunday? Carver would be fun but I'm open to anything in the local area, 5.9-5.12. PM me!

Thanks all, I hadn't really heard about it not being in the guidebook. What guidebook? The new Portland one? I haven't even seen it. But again, thanks for the info, it sound like a fun route that I'll have to find and do soon.

Hey, does anyone have sone good info for 'Young Warrior'? Like detailed description of the start, anchors (build your own or built), top out? I heard about it and tried to do a search on it but there are way to mant results to weed through. Thanks.

I think that what it boils down to is that bolt removal is ok when you justify it in your own head. In other words, you think that you know more than the person who placed it. I must say though, why stop there? Why not just fall trees over roads you don't think should exist in the forest? What about super crazy freesoloists, they could chop all they wanted because they don't think any are necessary (except for the filmers to hang from). It's a wierd debate but I don't think chopping someones bolts really does any good because they will probably just put some more in, thus scarring even more rock and causing more debates.

Didn't check the origional thread but 'Classic Crack' @ Broughton's Bluff 5.9+ (+++++++)is a suprise if you actually climb 5.9. I've seen people flash 10.b's right next to it and then get spanked on it. Chalk one up for the traddies.

Yikes! I need to start smoking more crack so I can get that focused. I onsited my friends stair set going up to his patio. There was a loose step and one missing. To iffy to grade though, very height dependent

Anyone want to hit any rock before the rain today? I'm heading out in about an hour. Broughtons or Carver? PM me and save me from the gym.

Whoa, 3 grades harder? That is some serious shoe action! I heard that if you spray your quick draws with Teflon then the rope moves through them slower and you can raise your redpoint limit at least one more grade, depending on rope width of course..........javascript:void(0) Anyway, thanks, I'll probably check out the Anasazi shoes 'cause 5.10 shoes seem to fit my big toes bigger and I've heard good things about them. Might need some spray paint for the pink though, or just bring back the whole tights thing.

I have been hooked on Mocasyms for a long time but I want to get something a little sturdier for those tiny edges that seem to pop up on the harder climbs at Smith. Something that edges well but not to stiff. Anyone got any that they swear by?

Hard climbing translates to strength and endurance no matter how high you actually go. I built a wall in my garage in December and since then have gotten in way better shape. It is only about 8.5 feet tall and 8 feet wide and 10 feet long/vertically (it's overhanging). I have power i.e short routes and endurance routes marked. This past weekend I was out at Smith and climbing way harder than my last trip. So I'd say just go climbing on whatever, just push yourself if you want to get stronger.

yeah, that sounds right. I know the old P-town guide mentioned it but not much info.

Hey, does anyone have any or know of any info on the climbing area by Cooper Spur? I know it's not really climbable right now 'cause it's so cold but for future reference, the info would be good. I was up there this weekend and there are some pretty crazy flows for some wierd ice 'bouldering' although a little soft 'cause it was warm. Rock soon though......

Elk Rock Island in Portland, It's like some wierd party zone with some sketchy routes accesable only by boat. That's pretty erratic or whatever.....

The monk @ Camelback is worth the trip, good view, fun route and rapell. Other routes exist, but it's pretty sketchy rock. There is some OK bouldering there also. The last time I was a Beardsley it was questionable. Dirty, lots of glass, fences blocking stuff, but it was a while ago. Not recomended if you looking for a positive experience.

Yikes! Where are those walls? Up north somewhere? The first photos look kind of like the Berlin wall at Broughton' Bluff in P-town, but more extensive. Those routes look fun for sure, how hard are they? My goals are to get my kids out and start climbing hard stuff again. (Like those pictures)

The Pit (for sport) and The Overlook (for trad) near Flagstaff are two good day trips from Phoenix, I used to drive it from Tempe. I'd recomend the Pit for more in the sun climbing during winter, it's limestone like Jacks and has moderate to super hard routes. Plus it's right by Priest Draw with some super cool bouldering.

Geez dudes, There is no 'locals only' stuff going on here. The loc info for the crag was published YEARS ago. Quit whineing and go exploring, it's fun. By the way, anyone been up to those boulders by Stevenson? Those 'locals' drive big trucks and carry guns!

Outrageous, what do you think he REALLY has in his water bottle? Liquid crack or something? Most amazing free climbing ever......