scottgg

Nice Dave and John! Just heard about the Mugs Stump award, congrats man!

Right.... I used to do that too, close my eyes and all my problems just disappeared. Just be careful, this technique has limited applications in reality.

GearX has the Black Diamond Glissade glove for $34 right now! http://gearx.com/black-diamond-glissade-gloves.html For the money, you can't beat this glove. Non-removable liner, long gauntlet, and sticky leather palms.

Any body climbing this thing via the north-ish face? Looks like it could have some cool lines. Thanks!

cool beans!

Couple more pics from a cool route: Low on the route Looking up the crux pitch, full 60m (green-red line) Traverse to the notch, about 20 minutes from the top From April 2007 with Luke Gullberg and Dave Conlin

Well, we had a great event and raised over $600 for "Luke's Wall". 22 folks showed up to particpate, and I think everyone had a blast! The top two teams tied with 16 peaks each, and everyone was stoked with the great prizes from Brooks, Cilogear, GU Energy, and REI. I carried a 20l NWD pack from Cilogear, and it worked great! Highly reccomended! More info here: http://lukegullberg.wordpress.com/

Don't listen to the haters, this thing is actually really fun! There is a great lieback crack below and to the right of lunch ledge which avoids some of the loose rock to the left. No rap required to traverse to the main summit, just some 3rd class scrambling. Name another multipitch peak with a 15 minute approach that rises 2000' above the car!

Howdy Y'all! Thought some folks on here might appreciate seeing an event we are putting together out here in NC in Luke Gullberg's memory! As you remember, Luke passed away this past December, along with Anthony Vietti and Katie Nolan, while climbing Mt Hood. So we have put together a race to climb as many of the 40 "Southern Sixers" in 24 hours as possible in their memory. The peaks are all located in western NC and eastern TN, and feature trails ranging from .25 to 8 miles. All procceds benefit "Luke's Wall" (http://lakesidebiblecamp.org/getting-involved/adopt-a-project), and we will have some great raffle prizes and gear from GU, Brooks, REI, Cilogear, and more! Luke loved racing and climbing, and he sure would have been keen on this event! Registration is through active.com(http://www.active.com/running/asheville-nc/smokin-the-sixers-2010) More info here: http://lukegullberg.wordpress.com/ Luke on the PCT last summer Luke in the North Cascades Luke halfway through a friendly race to climb the most routes in half a day at Stone Mountain, NC

Wow, such sad news! His winter climbing guide was a real inspiration to me, as was the life he led. Sincere condolences to the family and friends he left behind!

Nice Ivan! Always enjoy your reports!

Wow, thats sounds great!

Whoa! Super inspiring, thanks! I was wavering on this weekends East Coast summit bagging plans after my buddy backed out, but now I am psyched! Thanks!

Great trip and great pictures! If your back east in the next six months, look me up and we'll do a climb!

Memorial Climb/Fundraiser at the Seattle REI this Saturday (July 24th) from Noon -5pm Hey Y'all! Hope your able to enjoy this beautiful summer weather up in the hills! As many of you know, Luke Gullberg was killed this past December on Mt Hood, while trying to climb the Reid Headwall with Anthony Vietti and Katie Nolan. Luke was passionate about the outdoors, a consummate friend, athlete, writer, and climber. I'll always remember him as the best friend who just happened to be my brother. We climbed several routes together, usually day trips up big peaks. He always lobbied for the crux pitch, and never shied away from step kicking duties. After I left Washington for the East Coast, Luke and I would periodically chat on the phone about life, girls, and of course climbing. Instead of continuing to seek out challenging, technical routes, Luke instead spent his free weekends taking others up easier routes on classic peaks: Baker, Rainier, Baring, ect. He introduced dozens of people to the outdoors, and if you were ever fortunate enough to climb with him, then you no doubt remember his big pack and patient attitude. Luke worked for REI, and they have generously agreed to sponsor a Climbathon this Saturday, 12 to 5pm on the Pinnacle Climbing Tower in their Seattle store. We are asking for a minimum donation of $50 to climb the wall, and all proceeds will go towards “Luke’s Wall”, a professional climbing wall to be built at LBC on Whidbey Island. There will also be t-shirts for sale, so come on down! Thanks!

Cool guys, great sounding trip!

How about them pictures, Ade?

Trip: Enchantment's Tour - Cannon and Prusik Date: 6/8/2010 Trip Report: Dang I miss this place! Just got back to the East Coast after spending 10 days in Washington visiting friends, eating good food, and drinking large quantities of coffee. We took full advantage of the two sunny days during our brief visit, and were reminded why this is the best part of the country. Our second sunny day, we took my dad's boat out in the Puget Sound, driving from Edmonds to Langley for breakfast and admiring the beautiful peaks rising above the low lands. Then Becky and I climbed at Index for a few hours in the afternoon before getting together with friends for a bbq. A perfect day in the PNW! The other sunny day was Tuesday, July 8th. My sister Becky and I decided a trip to the Enchantments was in order, with Prusik Peak being the goal. But how to approach? I’ve always preferred hiking in via Asguard Pass because of the better scenery, though this time I wanted to try something new. A quick glance over the USGS map showed that approaching from Cannon Mountain may be feasible, and Google confirmed this. Thus the plan was to hike up Cannon Mountain via the North Gully, descend across the Druid Plateau to Prusik Pass, climb the West Ridge of Prusik, hike up through the still frozen Enchantment Lakes, down Asguard Pass and back to the trailhead. Aside from some occasional soft snow (we didn’t bring snowshoes or skis), thing went really well. We only ran into one other party the whole day, a group of 5 climbing Prusik. Shortly after heading uphill past the old road washout Halfway up the North Gully View from near the top of the gully Same view on Google Earth Heading up gully above Coney Lake Summit o' Cannon West Ridge of Prusik Heading Home Becky did an awesome job on this tour: from leading her first trad pitch to breaking trail though soft snow. I was starting to boink on the way to Prusik Pass, and Beck had no problem taking the lead up the sun-cooked snow. This was a fun early-season route up Cannon, and a very cool way to access the Enchantments. We weren’t trying to move particularly fast, so here is what you might encounter in terms of times: 1:00 to climb the North Gully 6:45 from trailhead to the top of Cannon (8,638’) 1:15 from the top of Cannon to Prusik Pass

Hey Pete My sister and I were that other party you met up there, nice running into you on such a great day!

Sounds cool.... you and Mr. Bunker should head back up and finish that thing!

Wow, big stuff guys!! That thing's a beast!

Hey Mark! Yeah, staying warm and wishing we could send some of this cold up north to you guys! Thanks for the info, I guess the pack I saw Colin wearing was actually the Serratus Genie, not the Lowe Alpine I was thinking of. That's a great price on the MEC Genie!

I saw a pack at REI about five years ago that was about 25 liters and weighed under one pound. I've been regretting not buying it eversince! I know they are not making it anymore, but I'd still love to get one and was wondering if anyone knew the name of this particular pack. It was red, and had a single strap holding down the top flap. Maybe the "summit", or "alpine" or something? I've seen older pictures of Colin Haley wearing one...

Trip: Seneca Rocks, WV - The expanding tick list Date: 1/15/2010 Trip Report: This isn’t how tick lists are supposed to work: after visiting a crag or climb you’re supposed to “tick” it off and move on to the next one. I must be going about it all wrong though, because my contrarian catalog is only growing! Last week I brainstormed a list of crags I’d like to visit and climbs I’d like to do before leaving North Carolina this summer. Getting it all on paper was the easy part; getting a “hall pass” from the wifey and willing partners for my infrequent and random free days was going to take some work. Turns out seeing it all on paper was helpful for persuading my better half (“see honey: it averages out to only .24 pitches a day between now and June!”). The partner department proved slightly trickier, at least in terms of scheduling. Joe was game for a midnight blast up to the famed Seneca Rocks (1st area on “The List”), but could only spare a day. This great eastern crag is actually a huge fin of vertically layered quartzite, with steep and featured climbs being the norm. Viewed in profile, the “fin” is super narrow, perhaps four feet across on the summit ridge. This is the type of cliff where you force yourself to slow down and take it all in, not wanting the climb to end. We got on five routes for a total of ten pitches, and each one was brilliant. I can’t think of any place in the Cascades where 5.4 climbs force you to pull roofs and feature dead vertical terrain for much of their length. I couldn't help but think of how much Luke would have loved this area! Like a cool drink to a parched throat, this trip merely piqued my interest and left me yearning for another chance to caress those steep jugs and tip-toe across more spooky traverses…. Do you think my wife will entertain a re-submittal of my original proposal? First pic is from November, the rest are from last Friday.... Gear Notes: Several medium sized pieces (think #2 camalot)

Thanks for the thoughts everyone! He was an avid film maker, and many of his videos can be found on youtube under the screen name "dearfriar".