TyClimber

Trip: Ingalls Peak - South Ridge Date: 11/3/2010 Trip Report: Usually I wouldn't post a TR for something like the South Ridge of Ingalls, but I figure it could function as a good conditions update for people. TobiasT and I took advantage of the nice weather and got out for a killer day in the hills. It didn't look promising from the trailhead, but once we got to Ingalls pass and got a view of the route we were glad we'd made the trip. It was a bit of a slog across the basin but snowshoes made it tolerable. We did have to ditch them eventually as it got just a little too steep and bouldery. At that point we only had to endure about 5-700ft of post holing up to the route itself. As for the route. We were able to kick steps in a gully a little to the left of the first pitch. After that it was bone dry and cruisy for the next two pitches. Kind of felt like we were getting away with something rock climbing in the sun surrounded by a fairly winteresque landscape. Tobis sent me some photos, but I don't know how to transfer them from my messages to a post. Maybe if he checks this out he can re post them... So the steps are kicked, somebody get on it before the weather shuts it down! Gear Notes: The basics Approach Notes: Snowshoes

Anyone looking to get out while the weather is supposed to be good this week? I'm flexible as to where to go as long as it is in day trip range of Seattle. Any hints about how much and how consolidated the snow is up high would also be appreciated. Didn't manage to make it out this weekend....

Seeing as there is only about 2-3ft of snow on the ground at the moment, I doubt avy danger would be a huge concern. Plenty of vegetation anchors. I would be pretty surprised if you could get enough snow moving to cause you problems. I'd be more worried about trashing your skis, or a knee.

True enough!

I was up there alone, but didn't feel like it was so bad. The gully at the start was a bit damp and mossy and that messed with my head more than the occasional loose rock up higher. I wasn't looking that closely, but it didn't really seem like there was that much oportunity for pro anyway other than the belay stations. Guess its nice for the second, but the leader might as well be soloing it.

I did this yesterday. Not really sure what everyone is talking about with loose rock. I was expecting a horror show, but it really wasn't any worse than what you find on lots of other routes in the cascades. It was also completely verglas free as of yesterday, although I imagine the coming weather should change that. And yes, the descent down the talus field seriously blew.

Hi everyone, has anybody been up around the Coleman Deming recently? Think there would be any chance of crossing it in a reasonable amount of time to get onto the north ridge? Cheers

Sorry, didn't take the camera with me.

Yeah, maybe it was just harder because it wasn't as filled in. Or maybe I am way over rating it. Haven't checked out Tumwater canyon at all, but I was up in the Moutaineer Creek drainage yesterday and the climbs up there were looking pretty sweet.

Rainbow Falls Right. Sorry for the weird angle, somebody was feeling artistic

Trip: Icicle Canyon - Rainbow Falls and ??? Date: 12/21/2008 Trip Report: The ice is forming up nicely in the icicle after the last week of cold ass temps. Rainbow Falls is pretty fat and cruisy. We got a pic of the route that I will try and post later. After that we went farther up the canyon to check out Icicle Buttress, which unfortunately was not quite filled in enough to climb yet. We spied a flow a few hundred yards further up the road from it though that was looking good. Not quite sure what we climbed but it was about 70-80ft and I would guess it was WI 4, definitely worth the 10 min approach. Sweet to get out swing the tools!

No, probably not enough snow to make for good skiing yet. I think one more big dump and you should be set for some good turns up high though. Sorry, but no pics.

Trip: South Early Winter Spire - Southwest Couloir Date: 11/13/2008 Trip Report: I don't normally write trip reports, mostly because I don't climb anything cool enough to brag about it! But, I thought people might appreciate the conditions update so here it goes. I headed up to WA Pass and did the SW couloir on South Early Winter Spire today. It required a bit of grovelling to get to the climb but the route itself is in fantastic condition, way better than I had even hoped for. I was able to pass the chockstone fairly easily on the left and then it was pretty cruisy all the way up the couloir. Most of the way it was perfect step kicking snow, with occasional stretches of neve on the steeper sections. There was a bit of wind loading right at the top, but nothing too nasty. The section where the couloir narrows down and steepens was the most interesting as there were a few moves of thin snow over rock, but a bit of searching easily found solid placements. I imagine that there is a pretty small window before the highway gets closed down for the winter so get on it while you can! Gear Notes: Two tools, crampons Approach Notes: Bring snowshoes!

I did the north face of Borah a couple years back in the first week of November. We had a bit of a wallow. We used snowshoes to get to the mountain and then swam up the vast majority of the route. We placed a couple pickets towards the top when things got a little steeper, but the screws we carried were pretty much useless. I have no idea what kind of snow they have gotten this year though.

Did anybody check out the NE couloir on Dragontail this last weekend? It looks like some storms may be on the way in the next couple weeks to fill things in more.

My brother and I did that last fall, it was pretty fun. It happened to be a fairly warm day and due to the aspect of the crag we were climbing without a shirt on at the end of October. Craziness! I am actually surprised it doesn't see more traffic given its short approach and fun moderate climbing.

Forget the Lusitania, remember the Gulf of Tonkin!

Captains of Crush grippers! There are several different levels of resistance and it can become something of an obsession trying to move through them.

Not on backbone or serpentine specifically, but I climbed other routes in the colchuck, dragontail, prusik area at this time of year and it has been hit or miss. Sometimes the stuff in the shade can get all verglassy. Is verglassy a word?

North twin sister up by bellingham is a great 4th class climb with some killer views. The north buttress on Colchuck peak is also a really enjoyable route in the 3rd/4th range. Both can be done in a reasonable day. Sahale is good to, and I hear there's a nice route on Mix-up peak, though I haven't done that one.

Last I checked the weather is looking pretty decent until Wednesday, so is anyone interested in getting out for something? I am free anytime between Monday and Wednesday. I was thinking something moderate, so mid 5th rock. I was flipping through the green CAG and saw there is a nice looking route on the SW face of White Chuck but I would be up for just about anything. Cheers

I got up there only to realize the battery in my camera was dead, bummer! My brother took a couple pics with his cell phone, if any of them are worth posting I will put them up this evening.

My bro and I did the Stormy Monday Couloir yesterday, its on the north side. The conditions were pretty good, easy approach still and super solid tool placements on the steep stuff. The snow was all quite hard and we made good time moving over it since we didn't have to deal with any post holing bs. The wind was crazy strong though, it actually blew us over while we were standing on the snow slopes below the route.

bike racer

If you like peanut butter burgers check out the Malt Shop downtown, no beer though. Otherwise I would say Boundary Bay which is just down the street. Personally I think you are much better off hitting one of the kick ass teriyaki places or Bandito's Burritos. I wasn't much of a breakfast out guy so I think the only place I went out to eat in the morning while I lived there was IHOP. So not much help there.