jordansahls

Love that climb! The Valhallas are a gem.

Here is a TR from someone going up to Paradise from 6 days ago: https://www.wta.org/go-hiking/trip-reports/trip_report.2018-07-07.2517868071 They took a picture of the Nisqually glacier if that helps. Can't see the Fan but the upper section looks doable (you can see ski tracks coming down on the left side of the picture).

Anyone been up that way? I'm curious to get any information regarding the north side snow conditions, particularly the NFNWR.

I find I can usually ski from the summit to the lake at least until July, although it varies from year to year. And with all the crazy changes in the climate I'm less confident in old weather trends/patterns. On the plus side, once the lake starts to open up you can get some super fun pond skimming in!

I haven't been out there in two weeks but, given the fat conditions when I was out there I would say that Vesper is very very likely still skiable from the summit to Headlee pass. However, Headlee pass was starting to thin out at the bottom. You will probably have to remove the skies in a few spots (likely on the traverse from the lake to Headlee pass and probably at the bottom of Headlee), but I bet you can still ski down into the basin. If I didn't have other plans this weekend I would be out there for sure.

Not sure if this is helpful but I was out there June 3rd. The ledge system to the North face routes still had a lot of snow on it. It's possible that things have melted out more in the last couple of weeks but I would plan on having to deal with snow on a traverse to the Ragged Edge route. Both the Ragged Edge and True Grit looked relatively snow free on the routes themselves. -Jordan

Anyone been up that way recently? Trying to scope out the West face of Sahale for a ski, figured I would see if anyone has been up on that side of the mountain. Thanks!! -Jordan

This has always stuck with me. I was on that route a week prior to Leubben. The last repel is locked in my memory. Partner and I had to do something kind of sketchy. The rope wouldn't make it completely over the schrund, so we had to kick off the wall, jump the moat, and drop off the end of the rope a couple of feet from its edge. It was only a small drop off the rope. I didn't think much of it. In fact, it was exciting...fun even. But then I remember hearing that someone died at that exact spot. I was young at the time...easy to dismiss it and chalk it up to user error. But, the older I get...the more my past decisions get reframed, and really terrify me. How did I survive the learning curve? No god damn idea. All this to say that most of us on this forum have been in a situation that we survived that others didn't. Surprise has nothing to do with it. But empathy makes me feel the loss. Because it could have easily been me. Should have been me.

Holy shit! (no pun intended). I had the exact same experience with campylobacter. Except I got it from biting into slightly under cooked chicken. But the hallucinations and the call from the CDC are all on point. Not a pleasant experience by any margin.

Man, I've done this route a couple of times in the Spring and Summer and it's never been anything to write home about. But, I have often wondered how it would climb in the winter. Looks like a lot of fun! Thanks for the TR.

Ivan's Beowulf quote has never been more fitting. Man is/was a legend with a hell of a legacy. RIP.

You know....I have been in that way a hand full of times. I've climbed the North and W/NW Ridges of Hinkhouse and for the life of me I can't ever seem to sort out where in the hell Cutthroat wall is. I feel like it's fairly obvious and Blake wasn't mysterious about the approach. I just seem to go full retard when it comes to this particular wall. I Assume it's on the west side of the main arm that runs north, directly off of Hinkhouse?

Thank you both for the info. I wasn't sure if the DOT was plowing all the way to silver star creek. I checked the Methow trails report and just figured that the road was un-maintained after Early winters campground. Still would be fun to checkout the high route but the regular route is always a good time.

Anyone ever done the Varden creek high route in the winter time to approach silver star peak? There is a brief mention in the CAG about the route. It says it starts at the foot of Cedar creek and cuts cross country. Any more specifics? Anyone done it before? Thanks for you help!

Thank you all for the suggestions! I knew I was forgetting some obvious options, totally forgot about Hardy and the north side routes. Also, the stuff along Kangaroo ridge looks like good fun.