dinomyte

Take the Pole Creek TH, hike into Camp Lake and do Middle from there. Not technical at all. Hell there might not even be any snow!

It was buggy at the Visitors center and along the river to camp. No problems from Camp up, only below.

Trip: Mt. Olympus - Blue Glacier Date: 7/31/2010 Trip Report: Since KK posted a recent TR, I will keep this one brief. If you want the full version, see http://lebre.net/olympuslog.html. My buddy Dog and I packed into Glacier Meadows on Friday, I climbed on Saturday, and we packed back out on Sunday. Weather was great, the Rangers were nice even though I said I was climbing solo, and the mosquitoes were fierce! The route is in good shape. I left camp at 4:30 am to avoid the heat. The snow was kind of firm, meaning you only sank an inch. The route currently goes to the end of the moraine and down to the glacier. You head across and can go up the rocks, but I stuck to snow. I slapped on the pons just below the top of Snow Dome, even though they were not needed. I traversed under a gaper below Crystal Pass. The snow was quite crusty in the shade in that area. I went around to the notch, climbed through, dropped down the icy slope here and up the steep slope to the summit block. The slope down from the false summit is partly melted out now. There is no problem getting on the rock from the snow. I took the ledge across the east face, then headed straight up to the top. I got there at 8:30am. I took a few shots, then headed down the much easier class 4 scramble of the SE ridge, staying on the S side, then stepping around the corner to the E side. I really put my head down on the way out and made it back to camp at 11:30am. It was pretty hot heading back across the glacier. There were some crevasses opening on the moraine side of the glacier but they were obvious. There were more near the base of Caltech. The boot path avoided everything. There were only 6 other climbers there - a trio from Victoria that went to the summit block and stopped. And another trio that summitted pretty late. Photos: Gear Notes: Pons and an axe were nice. Nothing else as I was solo. Approach Notes: Long.

What an underwhelming response. Oh well. I'll be hiking to Glacier Meadows on Friday, climbing Saturday, on out and home Sunday. Let me know if you want to join or will be in the area!

I meant "nice" trail, but I guess an Ice trail would do!

Thanks KK. A buddy of mine called and got us next Fri and Sat! Hope theres a ice trail and maybe someone I csn join up with, as mu buddy only hikes! If anyone is climbing Sat the 31st, let me know, 'cause I'll be there weather permitting.

I know a lot of folks who will not climb Hood SS in July. Wait, I know a lot of folks who will not climb Hood SS!

How hard are permits to come by? I know I could probably google it, but share the knowledge!

KK's TR got me excited for an Olympus attempt. I am available late next week through the weekend (29th on). Thinking of a three-day trip - Blue Glacier route. Anyone interested?

I brought them, felt the snow at camp on summit morn, and left them there. You just never wanna say "leave them" and then read that the person took a header off a mountain!

Anastasia: Sounds fun, but I was out on Glacier this weekend and I only get so many passes! I would say do like me and just go, and some one will show up. But, you might be alone on those routes! --jon

I posted a TR with some photos and route conditions. I would personally never recommend that someone leave crampons at home. Take them, then decide on the mountain whether you need them or not. Your call of course.

Trip: Glacier Peak - Gerdine Ridge/Cool Glacier Date: 7/11/2010 Trip Report: So, Glacier Peak has been getting quite a bit of attention lately, so I'll keep this brief, and focus on route info. If you want the verbose version with more photos, see http://lebre.net/glacierpeaklog.html. Hiked into Glacier Gap on July 10th. Almost snow-free to White Pass, bare spots to camp there. Traversed through constant snow from there and cut over the ridge relatively close to White Mountain. Traversed on the other side of the ridge at 6400 feet for miles. Passed 2 two-man teams, one solo, and a Mountaineers group of six on the way to the Gap. Ran into a couple guys at the Gap - Bryan and Ryan, and had dinner with them. Trevor, a guy I had chatted with on CC showed up at about 7pm. (I had left the NF Sauk TH at 6:30 and arrived at 4pm). Bare ground and running water there. Hit the hay at 9pm, up at 5:15am, on the trail at 5:45am. We went up the hump in front of us, down the other side, up the ridge, traversed and up the glacier to the saddle and on up the last pitch to the summit. Took us 3 hours to the top. Trevor skinned up on his split board, and took a sick route off the summit. We postholed to our waists on the descent (just the last pitch), passed two roped teams of 6 on the glacier and were back at camp at 10:30. I packed up my crap and tromped back to the TH, which was one of the longest hardest slogs I've ever experienced. The cold beer in my cooler may have been the best I've ever tasted! Now some photos. See if you can spot Trevor in the last one. Gear Notes: Bryan and Ryan had a rope We all had crampons We used none of it. Approach Notes: Long and hot - plenty of water on the traverse to White Pass. Snow was sloppy and melting fast, but you only sunk a couple inches for the most part.

5.12: I appreciate the detail. This is exactly what I was looking for. I was able to get up there. It is melting fast; there are only a few little snow patches on the trail below White Pass. They may be gone by the weekend. I camped on the dirt at Glacier Gap, and there was great running water there. Some folks there reported high winds the night before, but none on Saturday night. Your info was right on the mark. I'll post a TR and pics later.

My intention at this point, is to drive to the NF Sauk TH tomorrow night, hit the trail on Saturday dark and early and go as far as I can. Will head for the gap, definitely past the pass. Climb Sunday and get the hell outta there. If I totally overestimate my capabilities, I can stay an extra day. Would love to say hi if someone is going to be in the area.

Anyone have a feel for snow level up on Glacier at the moment. I went a bit late last year and played around above White Pass. Don't know too much about usual conditions, and this year has been wierd. Would I run into snow below the pass? Anyone heading up this weekend?

We were up that way on Saturday. My buddy looked when we got back and said 19 degrees, with average wind of 31mph, gusts to mid 40s. When he looked at me, told me the windward side of my nose was white, and reassured me when I squeezed it a few times that some blood was flowing, we decided that the beer in the car was a better idea!

I think it's pretty much all been said - this time and last time, and no doubt it will be in the future. But, if I die on a mountain, I'd prefer to be left there.

Looks like that's the plan. Leave PDX at 8am, to PA by 1pm, ferry departs at 2pm, and 90 minutes and $100 later I am in BC drinking and doing as little as possible for a week!! If anyone has suggestions of places to go and things to see, feel free to shoot them my way! Thanks all!

Cool. Of course, this yields another question. Is the fastest way from PDX to PA using 101 N from Olympia?

Guess I should have mentioned that we want our car. Looks like the ferry from PA is best?

Hey folks: Since 90% of you are in Seattle, I figured someone can tell me the best way to get to Victoria. Heading there for some vaca. Also, anything worth doing there? Do they have beer in Canada? Though I think it obvious, I am heading north on the 5 from Portland.

Interesting thread, at least part of it. I think the point of picking the most efficient tool for the job is exactly the opposite of my feel. Not that it's not hard enough with the most efficient stuff, but I enjoy packing my board (not split) to the tops of hills. I see quite a few up there who seem to enjoy the same.

I did this a few years back over Labor Day as well. You weren't the guy skinny-dipping in Ice Lake with his woman, were you? Hah!

By the way, it's a very simple ridge walk from Matterhorn to an intermediate point, then over to Sac. You can come back to that point, then head down a scree slope to Ice Lake if desired.