plark42

The mountaineers seem to be the closest thing to just finding a partner and doing it compared to taking courses and such. Is it THAT regimented? What is the preferred method of gaining experience?

Second that!

Hmm... Totally different aspects.. I am mostly interested in climbing glaciated peaks with maybe a few pitches of class 4 or low grade 5 rock at the top. I guess I can read that out of a book huh? As for accumulating experience leading glacier climbs.. that stuff doesn't happen over night nor could you learn it from reading books.. believe me, I have read freedom of the hills cover to cover, but that still doesn't prepare you if someone slips into a crack and you need to ACTUALLY rescue someone. Granted I have practiced a ton, but gaining the experience in routefinding cannot be done in a single course!

Perhaps I'll just stick to what I'm good at.. who knows.. maybe I'll learn rock anchors in TN

hmm.. I'll just have to wait until I get out there... I might just forgo spending money on instruction and just stick to what I already know (and meet people online to climb with and pick things up from). I had a friend from college who was part of the mountaineers from age 14 until 18- and he was a badass climber.. He learned ALL of his technical skills from the mountaineers, though he did climb with his pops all the time. It would be nice to have the mountaineer's courses going on the side, so that I am continually expanding and growing my skills as a climber. Hmm.. but would I rather keep my money to spend on climbing?? hmmm

John Freish- I wish I lived in the NW right now... I would look for ptrs to climb with. I do think my NOLS mountaineering exp goes a long way.. but there are a few things that I didn't learn on NOLS- I was in Alaska on HUGE glaciers with no rocks in sight. Rock anchors are a mystery to me. Same with setting up a rappel on rock. Now I know how to set up and make sound snow and ice anchors, but I want a sound background in rock too! Why not work from the ground up and refresh all the technique? In my opinion I would seek joining the mountaineers to learn over an extended period of time- which seems more beneficial than a crash course in a week or so.. Though I do want the freedom to climb whenever and where ever I want.. and not have to "sign up" to go climbing.. we'll see. Could I place out of MOFA with a WFR? I'd have to get the recertification!

no worries- you're not being an asshole- I can see where you're coming from. The mountaineers has a huge basis of members.. some of whom might be competent climbers and others who may have "cheated" some how. However, I still think the MOST attractive aspect of joining the mountaineers is how cheap the training courses are, relatively, to other programs... the Basic climbing course lasts from January until Sept, and it costs $350- where as your basic climbing course offered at AAI or MM is at least 495 at a minimum- plus I'd have to take time off from work. The way I see it, I would like to join the mountaineers to gain a network of courses and partners for a few years- mainly until I finish the intermediate program.. and at THAT point reassess my climbing goals and find partners and/or courses that fit my needs. I can always climb on my own anyhow.. I could just take the coursework that is prescribed.. who knows?!!?

My background- I am a NOLS Alaska mountaineering Alum- I am knowledgeable in technical glacier mountaineering (I'm into peaks not rocks necessarily, though I might want to try 4 or low grade 5 peaks some time).. What attracts me to the mountaineers (when I eventually move to the NW) is the length of time it takes to advance. Taking a 6-13 day intermediate alpine climbing course from AAI or MM doesn't teach you the EXPERIENCE you need to feel comfortable leading friends on mountaineering objectives. The intermediate mountaineering offered by the mountaineers takes 2-5 years to complete!!! Even the basic climbing takes a full year of experience. Don't get me wrong, I learned a shit ton of technical information on my NOLS course and would probably gain a lot from an intermediate guided course, but I still wouldn't feel comfortable out in front (I just wouldn't have the experience yet). It seems to me that the mountaineers expect experience to be the teacher and that's why it takes years to advance. Another thing is the network of climbers with skill levels that are KNOWN and somewhat equivalent. People that have taken the Basic Climbing course have all been through the same time tested and prescribed sessions. I've partnered up with people from various climbing websites that have turned out to be totally inexperienced and I had to teach them about crevasse rescue and even how to set up the tent!! (Despite saying they knew how to travel on a rope team and had experience). I have a friend who was in the mountaineers for many years and he loved it. It takes the guesswork out. Perhaps someday I'll branch out. (once I network and meet some interesting and competent partners)

The stupidest thing? Skinning up to a 14er base camp in Colorado starting at 7 pm without a map. We were going off our "gut" thinking we could just skin up in the valley in the general direction of the peak and in the morning it would appear. It did not! Stupid thing #2- (same trip)- leaving wet clothes on in a bivy: I was too cold to talk off my shell pants, and it never dried. Stupid!! 10 minutes of being cold for a sound sleep is definitely worth it!! #3 Sara Choi

Hey CC'ers Would it be worth it to join the mountaineers? Is anyone out there a member?

It's the same for health insurance. I HIKE mountains- which is exercise. Wouldn't insurance companies WANT to cover healthy people? Just LIE!!

Nice pics!!! I think being a guide would be frustrating- I wouldn't want to be in the outdoor industry for a living. Best leave it as a hobby. Academia is the way to go, though I am not big on geology. I guess it don't matter what I do, just as long as it's near mountains with a lifetime of routes.

I've been living in flatland Davis, CA- I just haven't hit the mountains in a while. Since December I've been on skis touring the BC. I like doing glacier climbs in the NW- and snow pickets tend to last pretty long- I've had the same pair for several years now. As for rock gear- I am not up to the level of active or even passive pro- i tend to the class 3/4 scrambling and such. Don't need more than some slings. I guess I just don't climb enough to wear that stuff out. (Hence why I want a job with flexibility).

I mean, how much do you need to spend on gear? It's not like golf where you have to keep buying golf balls and green fees. You buy the gear once and perhaps update the ropes/webbing when necessary. Boots seem to last a long time as well as axes, harnesses, crampons, helmets etc.. the list goes on. The expensive gear is the climbing hardware. I'll just pick routes that require none (or just free-solo it all!!). jk

Hey CC'ers, I am at the time of my life (post undergraduate degree) where I need to do some soul-searching and figure out what I am going to "do when I grow up." Are there any careers out there that work out great for people wanting to go mountaineering all the time? i.e., 1) make enough money to pay for all the gear 2) have a flexible schedule to take a long weekend 3) no homework, weekends or "on-call" Perhaps I should just win the lottery. I was thinking of becoming a teacher, so I could get summers off, but I dont think I'd make enough money to pay for climbing let alone the bills. All comments/advice are welcome.

Hey cc'ers- I am in the market for a ver light weight mountaineering boot such as the la sportiva trango evo or garmont tower gtx.. any comments or suggestions?

I would say to just go out and start hitting up mountains.. (well that's how it was it colorado- you could do 14ers that were walk-ups and graduate to harder more technical climbs).. as for the cascades.....

it depends on what you will use them for. Definitely don't use aluminum for waterfall ice.. I have a pair of those stubai and they are perfect for moderate glacier use... I like using aluminum cause it keeps me straight- I am not 100% comfortable on terrain where aluminum crampons are NOT suitable (make sense?) The stubai's are kinda a warning system for me. I used to have step in crampons with my plastic boots.. but decided that strap on with a leather boot is much better for MY needs.. it's up to you though.. sooner or later though you'll probably have to graduate to steel step in crampons on plastic boots..

I took a WFR course from WMI and it was very comprehensive.. NOLS certainly knows how to teach!!! there was sooo much hands on practice and mock scenarios.. it's totally worth it even if you don't plan on working as a bc leader..

Hey CC'ers out there.. My girlfriend wants to drag me with her to San Fran to visit some of her friends but I want to SKI!!! anyone out there interested in carpooling up to Lake Tahoe (from Sacramento area) to slap on the skins and ski up a resort? 1) I want to avoid paying for a lift ticket 2) I haven't been on the planks in a while.. so I want to get some turns in b4 I head out to the bc. anyone interested please post a message or privately email me at marcrubin6@hotmail.com I'll be happy to drive my Subaru and pay for gas!!

Hey CC'ers out there.. My girlfriend wants to drag me with her to San Fran to visit some of her friends but I want to SKI!!! anyone out there interested in carpooling up to Lake Tahoe (from Sacramento area) to slap on the skins and ski up a resort? 1) I want to avoid paying for a lift ticket 2) I haven't been on the planks in a while.. so I want to get some turns in b4 I head out to the bc. anyone interested please post a message or privately email me at marcrubin6@hotmail.com I'll be happy to drive my Subaru and pay for gas!!

Thanks for the advice.. (I am actually in California now).. any resorts of choice near Tahoe? I was thinking of going up to Soda Springs and just following the boundary (I think that's a good idea). I want her to get comfortable on her skis before I want her maneuvering around with a beacon.. bc is kinda out for the first few days (hopefully just 1). I dont like skinning up agianst the crowds either- I did a few times at ABasin in Colorado and got stopped many times from curious people asking "why the hell are you going UP hill?- the fun is going down" and such..

No shit I need to change my lifestyle- I am asking you guys for possible workout programs that you particularly like... I followed a training program last year for 7 months and felt great.. but I don't have 1-2 hours a day to spend in the gym anymore.. I had worked my way up to do 4-5 days of 1+ hour aerobics, plus weights..

anyone out there have a particular fitness/training program that they like? how much cardio? which muscles to lift? throw it at me..

hahahah... (to the commercial quote).. I wouldn't mind biking there if I didn't have to go on major interstates.. (I-80 in Sacramento)... I like the exercise more, eat less idea.