rl23455

darn, I didn't get credit for FA with Karl at Little Angora.

Hah. A month ago it was so crowded due to a number of groups. I directly asked everyone around a sport route if the hanging rope was theirs, no one, then pulled it. We started climbing. It turned out the people were 100 feet away and I told them on a crowded day it isn't polite to leave a rope hanging so someone in their group can TR it at a later time. We were nice all around. No conflict. On another note, the group you encountered are usually required to be back by 3 or something, so getting on a multi-pitch at noon is an option. I hit up Superslab at 1 pm this past Saturday, no one on it.

This program is Oregon Field Guide's 25th anniversary season opener. It airs on Oregon Public Broadcasting, OBP, at http://www.opb.org/television/programs/ofg/

can anyone provide more beta on Dod's Jam alternate 5.9? I'm a little put out about doing the 10c Dod's Jam. I'm guessing though the alternate is lichen and dirty... T

thanks. I did an SRT today on it. Some guys asked me what I was doing, but then they were gone. Wow, you Aided one of those? Does any go at A1? What gear would I need? I have some friends who are interested in Aiding and Bivying up to Grassy Ledges(?) in the late Fall. Trying to figure out which route. I also went up the road to check on Jimmies Crag. The bushwhack did not look pleasant, so I was satisfied with binoculars and long range pics.

sounds good, is it static rope? what color is it so I know I'm on the right rope?

fixed line on grunge book? both pitches? Hmm, maybe tomorrow.

no, about two pitches above that. It's the last pitch before Grassy Ledges. The original route is a 5.4.or something.

Trip: Squamish, B.C - Banana Peel, Calculus Crack Date: 8/3/2013 Trip Report: We went up to Squamish for a four day trip. Unfortunately it rained so we didn't get on the rock as much. But we did Banana Peel,(5.7, 8 pitches) which is listed as one of the top 100 climbs in the newest guidebook, "Squamish Select" by Marc Bourdon. The book says slightly runout, but there was one section that was 50 feet! 50 ft runout smearing only 25 ft runout, but hands. It had been a while since I climbed on granite so it was hard to get used to smearing again. I got comfortable doing only because we had no choice, no bailing options. We had more rain, but on another day we opted to at least look at the start of Calculus Crack, (5.8, 6 pitches) and see if it was wet. We got there and the girl belaying said it dried fast and was good. So we went back to the car and got our gear. The first two pitches are through a very steep wooded hill that goes at 5.7, and 5.6. That got us to Baseline Ledge. The first two pitches are also the same for St. Vitus Dance which I wanted to do, but didn't have enough time. Once we got up to the third pitch all kinds of climb parties started showing up and bunching at the anchor(bolts). You can see the next team in the green helmet. The anchor I was at was gear and he had to stop short at a lousy belay stance. But we were on the route first so went as fast as I could. We both had cinches and it made things so much easier for multi-pitch. I think that is why we kept ahead of the others. My arms were almost as tired from belaying rope in as they were from climbing. Both routes end at Broadway ledge and since we had walked off from Banana Peel, we opted for the unknown (to us) rap station into the huge gully. Turned out fine, easy to find rap stations, four raps on 60 M rope. Two Aussies rapped after us and I wonder how they didn't wreck their rope due to how fast they rapped. We did a lot of single pitch at Smoke Bluffs. Since we had rain, we stayed up to 5 pm on Sunday and did Laughing Crack (5.7), also on the top 100. We were so tired, but it was a sweet, relished tired feeling. Laughing Crack was fingers and I used all nuts. I realised that Squamish is all about finger sized cracks. The beta in the book usually says single rack, and I found I could have made my pitches longer on the Apron, but didn't have the gear. Most of the pitches were 30 M. I had also photo-copied any multi-pitch I thought we might do, one team had no beta, another team carried the whole heavy guidebook up the route! A note on the guidebook "Squamish Select". It came out in 2012, and has good color photos and more route descriptions than the previous book, "Squamish Select" by Kevin McLane. But I found the overview beta on the Smoke Bluffs to be poor, and missing some crags and relied on Kevin McLane's book more for Smoke Bluffs. Oh, they have a lot of Portland beer at the liqour store, but I opted for local brews. When in Rome... Gear Notes: A note on the guidebook "Squamish Select". It came out in 2012, and has good color photos and more route descriptions than the previous book, "Squamish Select" by Kevin McLane. But I found the overview beta on the Smoke Bluffs to be poor, and missing some crags and relied on Kevin McLane's book more for Smoke Bluffs. Approach Notes: I realised that Squamish is all about finger sized cracks. The beta in the book usually says single rack, and I found I could have made my pitches longer on the Apron, but didn't have the gear. Most of the pitches were 30 M.

On Sat 8/10 took two friends up Little Wing to Right Gull. rapped off Jills Thrill. What's the open book corner called, last pitch before Grassy Ledges? It starts in that little alcove with the small oak trees. The regular route goes up between the small oak trees and is like a 5.5. This is just to the left. Near the top of variation of Bluebird.

http://www.vancouversun.com/news/Woman+dead+after+fall+from+Chief+Squamish/8749709/story.html I only post it because we were there for four days, left at five pm yesterday.

It's formed from meltwater

Thanks so much. 3 of us headed there tomorrow, probably 3p. I didn't tell the others about poison oak or aid involved on stone soup.

OK. Sounds like spicy=runout. I hate runout. The gb doesn't tell how much gear to take? How Bad is the poison oak after the 4th pitch? Maybe I should take some Roundup, haha Maybe that 5.9 aid is a better route? Thanks.

Does anyone have any beta(besides what's in the book) on Iron Spike? thanks

contact Ian Caldwell. He is on Facebook. and probably a Google will get you an email address.

The only way I know off is convoluted. Look for rock cairns, some are only two stones high. When you are at the top with your back facing the cliff/climb, veer left(30-40 ft) over the small rise and then down-climb 3rd class right down into an amphitheater, follow it around to the far side(70-100 ft) staying fairly level/contour and there is a cleft of junky rock one can climb up(3-4 moves, 15 ft up). You can see the cleft from where you down-climb into the amphitheater. From there veer right and follow the easiest way up to a notch(pass, saddle) and then you will be able to see the switchback trail going down by Monkey Face. There is another way where one can climb up again and stay near the top of the ridge, rather than descending some 100 vertical feet to the trail. But the other poster is right, I heard there are Eagles nesting this year. Call the Park.

partner is bailing, I was looking at aiding on Monkey Face. Am looking for a partner.

Is this it? http://mapper.acme.com/?ll=45.67146,-122.05188&z=15&t=T&marker0=45.67905%2C-122.05246%2CN%2045.67905%20W%20122.05245

Hi, So because you guys posted about Jimmies, I'd like to tell you about a crag I have been at with FAs. It's called YourNameHere. It's up near Trout Lake and is very fine grained, very smooth columnar basalt. And very dangerous. Our FFA was done by my friend who almost died. I also cut my finger on razor sharp rock. Needless to say, he did it FFA and I a FA. The bottom goes at 10b and the FA I did goes at 5.9 or so. One cannot access these columns at the top due to steep dirt slope. My friend did a bouldering move to get around a corner and was demonstrating to me how easy it was. I had balked saying it was too dangerous. He said, "It's easy, just hold onto the rock" and at that point the refrigerator sized rock peeled off the wall with him downhill from it. I screamed as he disappeared into a cloud of dust. When the dust lifted he had dead-pointed a tiny shrub and saved himself from being pummeled and from a 60 foot tumble down a 65 degree slope onto boulders. He escaped with minor skin tears and minor blood. While I doubt he will go back, I would. I guess I'm more cautious and paranoid and would still go, because after all it is FA. I would also like to say I did 2 FAs last year, one and Aid climb in the Coast Range and at Yrnameer Crag. I uploaded a photo labeled Just Rewards under my profile. cheers

Nice, I was amused...for 30 seconds

My plan "A" is pretty much scrapped. Looking for partners to get away for the weekend. Lead trad comfortably to 5.9, will try 10a trad. Tom

Thanks, Another post I got was 160-170 ft.

Can anyone tell me the exact length of rope needed to rap off the chains atop RR to the ground? thanks

Portland Police sent me this photo of some recovered skis found in bushes. If anyone recognizes them, or has a customer come in who may have been a victim, tell them to contact John Truong. From: Truong, John Date: Mon, Feb 13, 2012 at 10:35 AM I put the picture in my gallery, couldn't figure a better place.