rl23455

GMap4 for sharing. Create waypoints and POIs in Google, then point gmap4 at it. Or you can use it standalone. Gmap4 has more layers(satellite, mytopo, usgs,terrain, earth,) provides utm grids, and pointer with coords displayed and you can printer pretty well. http://www.mappingsupport.com/p/gmap4.html Tom

yes, we had a time deadline and my belayer didn't think he could finish Free for Some in time, so he tried Winter Delight, but that turned out to be "unfriendly". He kind of gave me a dirty look when I told him I could lead it on trad. Then my partner led the first pitch of Southeast Corner. Thanks for the advice on Stephenwulf. And yes, we had plenty of warm clothes. He forgot his sit pad. How does one rig solo-aid?

Tried my hand at clean Aid yesterday at Beacon. Free for Some to the first anchor. Was wondering how long it takes an experienced aid climber to get to the first anchor? My belay partner waited patiently in the cold for 1.5 hours(or so he says). Any one else have a time taken? thanks, Tom

There was an article in Rock & Ice, December 2011, pg 74 about the overuse of NSAIDs.

I emailed them and they said they would keep Skull Hollow open until the end of November weather permitting. Also heard recently the campground hosts called the cops on one group because they had 20 or so in one campsite. Their list says 6 people 4 cars per site? Don't they know it has been a tradition to have large groups there?

Talked to my friend in the gym, he was following on Pack Animal, 2nd pitch when a huge rock pulled off. The jug holds just before anchors. No one was hurt, no one was below. Am interested to find out how the route has changed.

I went up there years ago. There was a fixed rope for development. Pretty mossy, looked like the start was the crux over a sort of roof, then steep slab to the top. Would take a lot of work to clean the moss. It's outside of Bull Run, so no access problems.

I was over at Spiderman Buttress that day when I saw the ambulance come down the dirt road across the river. Later found out my friends actually helped stabilize the girl. There was a nurse (and paramedic?) on a hike and happened to be near when it happened. She had 3 teeth chipped out. I had heard they had just rapped from the nose. Seeing the video makes sense how the extra rope on the ground would snare them over the ledge at the nose landing. Also friends heard her screaming in pain on the water crossing. Noticed the helicopter took off real smooth and slow. I would say sue the rope swinger, but the young guy probably doesn't have any money...

effing China has a long history of producing sub-par products, as well as fakes. There was the sheet rock incident that had high levels of sulfur in them and people's homes were ruined, home insurance wouldn't produce a claim on them. And China ignored lawsuits.

Nice Budhhist stories, but sadly I find most people don't even want to try to "grow". To prevent future instances, maybe the Park regulations should be amended to allow working projects. I don't suppose they called the authorities?

Question about first ascents. Do you climb with three people for safety, or just be daring with loose rocks and other dangers and climb with two? This is a totally unknown crag about 2 hr drive from Portland. Columnar basalt, 2 footers. Very fine grained rock. I had to bail due to no pro/ beyond my "oh shit" factor.. I'm guessing 10b. Am bringing pitons next time. no cell phone coverage. thanks, rl

I have that 48 page guidebook to Riggins pictured in the linky. boiseclimbs.com tells you where you can buy it.

The 3.2 version of the 3rd edition is smaller, The 3.1 edition is 7.5x9 inches, the 2nd is more like 6x9. It really should be labeled 4th edition because it has more content, including some closeups of Beacon Rock

no clue, I think Jim Opdyke was there and saw more.

thanks. It's been a few years since I did it, so maybe it would be easier to me now.

From the top of Jill's Thrill, a 60m rope takes one to a rap anchor that is not listed on Beacon Rock topo. And that rap takes one to the top of 1st pitch of JT(top of Toothe Fairie). So I'm trying to mark it on my BR topo. Any help? Also, I've been told at this same rap anchor in question, when facing the cliff, a thin crack just to the left(~3ft) of the rap anchor is a 10a that is not part of JT, and JT actually goes up on the right(~8ft). Yes/No?

Anyone know what happened to the girl that fell? I was told she was on the Snag Ledge traverse going towards the anchor above Cruisin when she fell and pendulumed, lost her helmet too. My climb partner related all this to me after she climbed up to me, I was on Right Gull

Porter, Make sure you know your knots for the skills test. Competition is fierce to get into AR. And the skills test at Clubsport helps them decide who gets in(over 50 apply, only 20-25 get accepted). Those who don't tie the knot right the first time show a weakness. What you need to know is online. Also, if you can get references of friend climbers who endorse you, and send that in, it helps.

Looks like all those years of rumors are true... Rock Climbing Smith Rock State Park, 2nd: A Comprehensive Guide to More Than 1,800 Routes (Regional Rock Climbing Series) (Paperback) by Alan Watts Alan Watts (Author) # Paperback: 512 pages # Publisher: Falcon; Second edition (January 19, 2010) List Price: $40.00 Price: $27.00 & this item ships for FREE with Super Saver This title has not yet been released.

for newbies or new partners, I use "clipping", otherwise I say nothing, it is just part of leading, the belayer should know you will be periodically taking up rope to clip.