Jump to content

Coldfinger

Members
  • Posts

    1357
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Coldfinger

  1. Geez sounds like you have been in an office, have fun in the field!
  2. Not to be harsh but it's your own fault you missed something here...... Yes most folks DON'T do what they intended with their degrees, but the gift of education is learning how to learn, developing practical skills (yes those papers might have been meaningless in the long run but learning HOW to write them might have been the real point), and --gasp--growing up! I just think you're selling yourself short, maybe you should consider holding off on college for a few years and getting a few things out of your system and learning a few more about the world and yourself. This trip sounds pretty sweet, did a few like that myself at your age. Sounds like a good path. It will help you get into and make the most of a good college. Just don't make it into an excuse not to go to school eventually, this isn't an "either or" situation! (There are good schools with low "in state" tuition btw) And yes there are schools for "different" people, I went to one and it really fit me well. I do apologize if I sound harsh, but I found my education was key to everything that followed, and no it wasn't easy and yes I did have my share of fun. Bottom line is look inside and see if 4 years of getting drunk is all you think it can be, but be a little respectful of something that some of us took seriously and worked had for. You're going to find life is full of hard choices but not making one is the worst one to make!
  3. My 2 cents--you'e got a little time. Change your approach. Move to a smaller place with a good scene, climb like a loony while you wash dishes, make some contacts and it'll happen. You can get an OEM cert through a lot of Ski Patrol programs and I wouldn't discount becoming a patroller or other ski industry professional first then doing that in winter and look to move into guiding in the summer. There's a lot of crossover (look at BD) between the two industries and ski is easier to get into.
  4. Hey look, having worked in the ski and guiding industry--and having been hurt in the oil and gas industry (not too badly, but without workmen's paying for the $1,000 MRI, I wouldn't have known my bicep was about to end up in my shoulder)--it's no small thing to know at least within the parameters of performing a job, you'll be covered if you get hurt. These days health care cost is a BIG consideration with work, just saying......
  5. Since I sold one Fin and retired the other (nice piece in the collection now), I found two other possibilities. 1. BD Livewire, nice green color stands out, big opening, at REI on sale. 2. WC Xenon, nice bright yellow color, big basket, $6.50.
  6. At least it would be workmen's comp!
  7. I've got two reasons he'll always be Old Larry. 1. He got confused and PM'd me for help. 2. He forgot he PM'd me.
  8. Howdy Steve, I use Silvretta bindings and Karhu 10th Mountains in a 186. We got lots of DEEP loose snow here at times so I need a combo of width and length for floatation. Length is nice for when I can haul ass and glide. Big plus of skis is one can fly up or down stuff you might be able to walk on. I find waxless is nice as it can be a pain to climb and skins are GREAT but not needed all the time. Just try something like TGR for a forum, lots of backcountry fans on the pass these days......
  9. Don't forget: Kongur, Chris Bonington Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage, Herman Buhl Shishapangma, Scott & MacIntyre and how the hell did we forget this beaut: White Limbo, Hall
  10. Sure are trains, just not all the way......
  11. nah, total bisexual, that One is - he likes to take everyone from the tail-end So that's how it was an "immaculate conception", never thought of that!
  12. Well judging by the long line of preachers who ARE fags and then hate fags in public (unknown number of Catholic priests, the tweaker from Colorado Springs megachurch, the brother from the Georgia megachurch........) logic then dictates: God must be a fag!
  13. Well, pretty American of you all to want to drive, I'd say go local and ride the bus and/or trains. Bringing a vehicle anywhere is a big risk, not just in gas but in terms of police, insurance, what if it breaks down etc. A bike seems like yet another eco trek 2010 blah blah. A bus, hey you're there with la gente, you'd be surprised how cheap and how much fun the bus can be, especially if you make alternative arrangements for the gear at least until Ecuador. I think I'd rather bring a surfboard at least that far........ Plan on leaving most if not all climbing gear with the locals for the return leg, they'll love ya! And yes they pay cash.
  14. The Grivel tools are pretty sweet. Got a pair of the Matrix Lights and made a few mods to them (added Horns and mastic grip tape, subtracted accordeons). I have to say these are probably ideal for most folks, especially as there are some pretty light prices out there (retail is $185), managed to pay $210 for the two tools and another $71 for two Horns and a Grivel Double Spring umbilical set. The accordeons added 1.4 ounces and I couldn't figure what else (Grivel claims they are for "shock absorption", I say to cover up funky cheap/looking head/shaft connection). So they are gone and not missed. Tried a slider and didn't like it as it only sits at the head or the bottom of the shaft and needs a set screw, so it can't give you an upper grip rest like Petzl's new Trigrest. The mastic tape (thanks Dane!) can be had at Home Depot and is Scotch Brand 2228 Electrical Tape. Can't say enough good things about it. First it insulates and second it gives enough grip that I could get by without an second grip rest. VERY worthwhile imho. Really stretch it out when applying. Picks are a bit thick (I guess), but are bomber solid and stick and hook very well. Swing weight rally is the best thing about these tools, they are LIGHT! Especially where one is hooking/flicking more than swinging, the weight really saves one a ton of energy. I was skeptical having always swung heavy tools and liked how they stick, but am sold now.
  15. Howdy, have to admire your psych! Went and checked out the boots and they are NOT what you need, keep em if you want for summer stuff tho, especially if they fit your feet well. Great for what they are designed for I imagine but you are way beyond what they are designed for. They (Kayland) say: "The boot is equipped with a step-in crampon bail at the heel and so is ideal where short sections of snow or ice are likely to be encountered." In other words these aren't designed for winter climbing, period. Usually this type of boots is great for long approaches, some glacier or couloir work and longer stretches of 3rd through 5th class rock in summer/late spring/early autumn. Also, without the ability to use a toe bail style crampon, you will find these more tiring when you are on your front points particularly on hard (hardness) ice. Don't give up on single boots, just find a new pair on sale or a used pair that is well insulated and designed to take step in crampons. BE PATIENT (I know that's tough for you kids but too bad). The wrong fit in the right boot is just as bad or worse than the wrong boot. You could keep an eye out for double boots, but they are intended for deep cold and particularly multiday use (way easier to deal with). Wearing too many socks are you? That tells me one of two things: 1. Your boots are too big anyway or 2. They are really tight and circulation is an issue. Many folks nowadays let the boot do the insulating and use lighter socks (midweight) for a very comfortable and high performance fit. Hope that helps!
  16. Yeah, you're not getting your bar oil soaked boots anywhere near the absorbent walls of my Bibler tent buster!
  17. Kinda seems like the logic you are using is not the way to go. If you are really serious about pushing the limits, you might find you need three pairs. If the Alphas fit, KEEP 'em! BTW they are WAY warmer, wouldn't use the Liskamms EVER in big mountain/cold weather, the leather boots are three season boots by design. The Alphas are designed for climbing, so the ankle is just how it should be. You'll find as you become a better ice climber, and especially as you start to tackle bigger and harder alpine routes, that you'll be using the other ten or twelve points a LOT more than the front points. That's why those points are there. Ankle flexibilty really helps you save a TON of energy by staying off your frontpoints (never mind helping you use the sole on 4th and 5th class rock). OR you could sell the alphas and upgrade to the Scarpa Omega, either getting a cheaper pair with a PlusFit liner or a newer model with the Intuition liner (google intuition liner and you'll see they're the sh*t for high altitude/cold climbs). Alphas are on the lowest end of Plastic boots for warmth, they were designed to be more like single boots than the clunky doubles of ten years ago, but ARE NOT Denali worthy. Plastic doubles are also very nice as they work better with Silvretta bindings imho, if you need to ski as part of a climb. That being said..... You can vary the lace tension to provide more or less ankle and foot support. Some boots even have a locking eyelet about midway up. Most folks crank down when it's time to climb and let up otherwise for comfort and warmth. You can also use the keeper strap on the heel lever of a step in crampon to tighten up the ankle support. There's no substitute for (plastic) double boots for multiday winter or big mountain climbing. (Of course you COULD buy a $600 or higher pair of boots from Scarpa or another make, but I'm assuming you don't want to do that yet.) As for the other Scarpas....... KEEP 'em! BTW they are identical to a pair of EMS Aretes I have (actually made by Aku aka Extreme GTX), great boots. If they are good work boots that's enough of a reason, but I doubt they meet ANSI standards for toe protection, they're not really steel toe are they? Here's a big caution: I don't know what kind of nasty stuff you work around but if it gets on your boots and is NOT good for climbing gear....... If you work in an office mixing climbing gear in with work is no prob, in an industrial setting, look out. You might want to find another ( ) pair also, insulated single boots, if you want better climbing performance as the Akus/Scarpas Liskamms are NOT warm enough for serious Alpine or Winter........ Dane has a great blog, will help you with boots, poke around. Just depends on how much $$$ you are willing to spend but boots are that important.
  18. Price reduced!
  19. Howdy, I'd just like to hear from any of you all that have any experience with stretching plastic double boot shells, got a new pair of Scarpa Omegas and am thinking they'll need a little more width for anything thicker than ski socks.
  20. BD Legend Gloves SOLD. Thanks!
  21. What liners do they have, Intuition or Plus-Fit?
  22. CAM is SOLD, Thanks!
  23. I've got a Petzl Hirundos I picked up cheap and it's really pretty sweet, very small in the pack and pretty darn comfortable. Great gear loops.
  24. Check your PM's! Sent you the info.
  25. I'll do $30 (friggin' postage & pp!).
×
×
  • Create New...