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Trip: 3 Finger Jack - standard south ridge Date: 5/6/2012 Trip Report: Some buddies were going to climb 3 Finger Jack and Mt Washington in a weekend and I signed on last minute to climb 3FJ with them. I'd done it in summer once and hated it, but was willing to give it another go with snow cover. I must say, it was much more pleasurable to climb this mountain on snow rather than scree... I volunteered for the crawl, and was rather pleased with myself at the end of the lead. That was a new level of focus and consequence in climbing for me. I have only dabbled briefly (and on toprope) with climbing on rock/mixed terrain in crampons before this and was nervous but pulled through just fine. Having climbed the crawl before, it was helpful to know the holds were there, and large, I just had to find them under the snow and ice. The approach and descent were pleasant too- it is much nicer skiing/skinning through that burn when it is snow covered than hiking it in the summer heat. Photos are taken by myself and two others, and edited by myself.

Guy discovers his south pole food cache with munchies inside. I've felt like that discovering other peoples food caches...

Welcome Tom! Where'd ya work in Tahoe? Work on Woodies much I used to work at Sunnyside. Love that place. I would definitely recommend going to The Circuit boulder gym or one of the many other gyms to meet climbing partners. I'd offer but work has gotten the best of me recently... >

ok, I posted this and then did a TR search. Shoulda done it the other way around. Lots of info out there already. Still, feel free to share!!

I just found out I am going to be able to scam my way to the Dolomites this summer and I need info on mellow climbs around there. If you've got any trip info to share on what to see/do/climb I'd love to hear it! We'll be trekking for a week, then I want to get a few days of climbing in. I am a confident leader up to 5.10 multi's at sea level but would probably be happier on a mellow .7s and .8s up at that elevation.

DEWD! This RAWKS!

"...Because you cant drink beer on Diamox." http://yourlife.usatoday.com/health/story/2012-03-20/Ibuprofen-may-prevent-altitude-sickness-study-says/53672028/1 The American College of Emergency Physicians released a study Tuesday of hikers who took ibuprofen before, during and after an ascent to high altitude. The odds of developing acute mountain sickness, or AMS, were far more likely in a placebo group than in those who took ibuprofen. Overall, 69 percent of people in the placebo group developed AMS, compared with just 43 percent in the ibuprofen group. And symptoms of AMS were less severe in people in the ibuprofen group who did develop the illness, according to study lead author Dr. Grant Lipman of Stanford University School of Medicine. "We did this study with the mountaineer or those who have limited vacation time in mind, but it certainly has applicability to the warfighter," Lipman said. The study consisted of two groups: 44 participants received ibuprofen and 42 got a placebo. They received doses at base camp and another at 11,700 feet. All hiked nearly three miles at altitude, after which they received a third dose. Then they spent the night and took a final dose in the morning. Their symptoms were monitored and tallied through a questionnaire. "If you have limited vacation time, or in the case of the military, you don't have time to prepare to go to high altitude, this potentially could be a good medicine," Lipman said. A number of prescription medications are available to treat altitude sickness, but most have more side effects than ibuprofen, Lipman said. Still, ibuprofen, as with any medication, carries risk. The popular anti-inflammatory can cause upset stomach, gastrointestinal bleeding and kidney damage in those with reduced kidney function. "Ibuprofen needs to be taken with lots of fluids and food," Lipman said. To ward off AMS, the recommended dose, according to Lipman, is 600 milligrams six hours before ascent and 600 milligrams three times on the day of travel. AMS affects between 25 percent and 40 percent of the population and can be debilitating. Symptoms include headache, sleeping problems, nausea, vomiting, dizziness and fatigue. Treatment involves acclimatization or leaving the high altitude area. While ibuprofen may help ease the effects of AMS, it's not a cure, Lipman said. "If you are at high altitude and start feeling sick, I'd suggest you go down hill to the last elevation you felt well at," he said. Researchers performed their study at elevations of roughly 11,000 feet. Ibuprofen's efficacy in places with higher elevations, including the Himalayas or Andes, has not been studied, he added. Lipman, a hiker himself, is a fan of his own medicine. He opts for ibuprofen over a prescription like Diamox (acetazolamide) for reasons every weekend hiker can relate to: "You can't drink beer on Diamox," he quipped. The study will be published online in the Annals of Emergency Medicine.

OOOoooooooohhhhhhhhhhh! I can't WAIT!!!

Mother of god! What have I done!!! I am so fail!

oooh! kinky.

I ask for entertainment. You send me Shakespear. You must be a teacher. This better be good or I lose faith in all of CC. YOU HEAR THAT IVAN?! MY FAITH IN CC RESTS ON YOUR SHOULDERS. (though you have yet to disappoint on this forum...perhaps ever.

Caaaaaarrrrrrrrrrlllllll!!! Still not entertained. But I think that would have greatly entertained me and my roommates about 10 years ago...

Ideally I'd get a picture of Muffy in real S&M gear, not just the lil rubber duckie. And I think Tamara holding the whips and chains would be nice too.

twat. I am not entertained.

Into my second Wassail of the evening, stranded on a rainy evening in Forks WA, at the end of the world. Helicopter is broken for the third time in 4 days, and my truck drivers are antisocial (not that I would want to be hanging out with them on a Sat night anyway). I turn to CC.com faithfuls! In you is my salvation!!

we are on the leading edge of good Gorge season imho. Most summer days are generally too hot and greasy to climb down there unless you grab a climb first thing in the morn. That smooth basalt can be a little sketch with wet palms.

Thanksyouthankyouthankyou!!! This is GREAT! And wonderfully simple to use!

Heres a linky to an OSU archive article and photo from the first american everest expedition. Linky Only sorta kinda related to Oregon history, but at least he was from OSU!

we had a story...always train'n!

hmmm... What is this gargle fail you speak of Shmappy me boy!?!?

I know of that one, these are different. more like big pits I am told. A friend of a friend found them in his LIDAR work. 40-60m rap in, explore and jug out. I havent been and have no idea where they are, and the hippie who was gonna show us is leaving for Thailand shortly, then moving to New mexico. I'll find 'em an letcha know.

Trip: Smith Rock - West Face of le Monkey Date: 1/17/2012 Trip Report: Thursday we reconvened at Smith for one of the coldest days of the year so far with our resident Eugenian, and the same shit-show from the Wolf Rock TR. The idea was that we all had nothing better to do in the cold clear weather, so we should aid west face. This was a new experience for each of us in some form or another whether it be a first aid lead, first monkey summit, or first time figuring out hauling pigs. Things got off to a good start when our resident cheap-ass showed us his “fifi” that explicitly says “not for climbing” on it, and I realized that the haul bag I borrowed was without a hip belt. Forrest once again somehow convinced us that for twice the pain we could get there in half the time by going over misery ridge. Never again with a full hauler. As any good adventure begins…we got to the base way too late; a poor prospect as the forcast called for a 17 deg. low that night. Frasier led p1 in a speedy fashion aiding on gear but clipping the bolts off to the left as his leave behind pro for a portion of the climb. I came up and started the haul with a 3:1 which was incredibly slow but at least I know now. Then I sat. And sat. They were leading the next 300 ft, which really wasn’t that bad, but once I started seeing the beginnings of sunset…from the top of the first pitch, I started getting cranky. At least I had my downy and the speakers. Luckily I didn’t have to wait much longer. I tell ya, that swing out from the last belay, into space, in the dark, was terrifying. It took a few minutes to psych myself up for it. The only excitement on route happened above me. Frasier blew a small nut and factor 2’d the anchor instead of using our pirate sword stick clip to clip the first bolt of (p3?). Tough fall for a guy who got run over by an old lady in Eugene a few days before! Then we had ourselves a good old fashioned hoot’nanny! It is all a little hazy still, but hopefully some of the others will chime in to provide insight on what I don’t remember. I just remember lots of wine. The morning was slow and hungover, we realized that no one was going to make it back to the valley in time for the appointments the had, so we said fook it, and went to Sunspot after a leisurely hike around the bend. Gear Notes: too much water, not enough tequila, pirate sword stick clip, hella draws, speakerz w/ techno, not enough jumars, carpet square for padding a sharp edge. Approach Notes: hike around the river trail, you wont regret it

Trip: Wolf Rock 5.9 Date: 1/7/2012 Trip Report: So this guy informs me there is a sweet route at wolf rock last weekend, so taking advantage of our incredible January sunshine (57 deg bishez!) so I grabbed my favorite pnw transplant from Boston Steve, and Bend yokel Forrest, and we rolled out there in the morning. Originally the plan was to find some rumored, deep, rappel-in cave system on Santiam Pass, explore that and then meet out at wolf for a pitch or two, but as we climb out of the valley and see how nice the inversion has made it up high, we agree to climb Der Wolfwand. Well, Forrest badgered us into it really, but it didn’t take much convincing. Now I have a history of being a, um, different, belayer for Steve dating back to his first climbing experience after moving here from Boston (first pitch ever climbing w him I tied him off midway up superslab so I could escape the belay to attend to explosive beer shits and then gave him a hip belay on the marsupial traverse later that day), and this trip was no different. Forrest was belaying his lead on p1 and decided to trade belayers with me so he could take care of business before heading up, so mid route I announced to Steve that I am now his belayer. The rest of the pitch was completed with only minimal rockfall on Forrest and I. Oh, I forgot to mention that Forrest forgot his helmet, so he stuffed his entire puffy into his knit hat and wore that for whatever protection it provided (not much). He kinda looked like a rasta-mon, or perhaps a Taliban terrorist. Anyway, we all get up p1, and I get to lead a short, easy ramp right and then the uber cruxy 5.9+ third pitch (fun!). I was surprised how pumped I got on the steep third pitch but as informed, the holds are all there, you just have to look a little harder. I dragged both of their fat asses up to the next ledge (great belay ledges throughout the route btw) and Forrest then pulled a cruiser lead up the shorter 4th pitch while Steve and I rocked out to Infected Mushroom and various other techno beats on my 10$ speakers (best 10$ I ever spent!) at the belay. Steve took over again for the 5th pitch and that is where the mountain started coming down all around us. At that point the route moves left under the Barad Dur roof system and the rock gets slimy and loose. We considered doing some cleaning, but decided that more cleaning would likely only excavate down to more loose rock so we continued on, walking on eggshells. I think I pulled the chossiest lead of them all for the 6th pitch; a left traversing, bouldery/ledgy, loose sonuvagun. It was, however much better than Steve had led me to believe (he only found 2 of 7 bolts when he led it earlier and had a loooong wander to the anchors). I luckily kept the bolt line for the entire climb, though you’d never guess it by the amount of moss and choss in the final 20 ft. I thought I was off route as all hell and just when I gave up and tried to escape up a gully right, I found some hidden anchors. I think the bolters got tired of cleaning, or perhaps saw that the clumps of moss were the only thing holding the route together. (respect to those before me tho) I believe it was also on this pitch, just when I am freaking out in the midst of all that choss, that I hear an “Oh Shit!” from the belay (nothing inspires confidence like those two words right?!), then “Ian, it doesn’t concern you, keep climbing!” Forrest dropped his belay device, I later found. Beyond that, there was a long unprotected 4th class slab, then another neat 5.2 ramp to shrubs and a scramble to the top. I must say, a little more cleaning, or perhaps a bolt or two would make the ramp/gully feature above the last anchor belay a fun finish instead of climbing right up the smaller face. On top we dined on baguette, pocket warmed bacon, and kids fruit snacks while watching the sun creep ever lower on the horizon. The descent was harrowing as usual, made ever more so by the water running down the best part of the descent. We got to enjoy an incredible sunset on the way down and made it to the car just as it became to dark to see. Oh, and while retrieving packs at the base after dark, Steve almost got destroyed by rockfall that seems to have come directly off our route. He said it sounded like it destroyed some trees just below him. All photo credits go to SteveP and ForrestK Gear Notes: Mp3 player & speakers, summit bacon, hella draws, 3 idiots, warm weather, optional BD camalots #.5-1 and a meager set of nutz Approach Notes: its not the approach that'll getcha: its the descent!

hey dude, do you have any chalk? take. Take. TAKE!!! Dude, what the fok!

Both of those are GREAT!!!!