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wbk

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Everything posted by wbk

  1. Awesome Trevor! Totally stoked for ya, you deserve it!
  2. illegal? why this? because they are doing roadwork on them?
  3. also does anyone know how passable these washouts are on mtn bike or on a dirtbike?
  4. Heading to the Dolomites this fall. Plan to do some cragging around Arco. I’ve got quite a bit of info online already. Anyone by chance have guidebook/s of any of the climbing in/around Arco (not the Dolomites – got one of those!) that lives in the NW? Would love to peak at one and get a better lay of the land, etc. If anyone has beta on cheap places to stay, that'd be most welcome. The strong euro/weak dollar makes things pretty expensive! Thanks much!
  5. >>We pass one of our new routes up Vasiliki Tower, just to the right of the left skyline. Clean granite on a steep wall. Can you elaborate on this new route you mentioned on Vasiliki Tower?
  6. Scrambles, Smoot, tick tick tick tick! love it! great shots Jason.
  7. i am a big snowshoe hater (even though i own some). it would help with the postholing from the stuart lake cutoff up to the lake but the extra weight would be not be nice for the fast road and lower trail hike. sixes if you ask me. depends how much you hate postholing. if we continue to get no snow and with more folks using the trail since, the snow highway will be nicely packed!
  8. Trip: Alpine Lakes - Dragontail - Triple Couloirs Date: 1/27/2011 Trip Report: Tim (therunningdog) and I headed up to Colchuck Lake to climb Triple Couloirs. We left Wed (1/12) with a camp near the lake. There were broken spots in the lake where we could get water which saved on fuel and time (no melting snow). Though a car to car ascent was briefly considered, we quickly opted for the option to carry heavy packs and spend that quality some tent time at the lake. Route was in fine condition and we made good time on the route, pitching out two short mixed steps. We bypassed the runnels and opted for the West Face variation due to incoming weather. Wind picked up as we were finishing the variation and getting into the third couloir. Summit was a good yell fest with blowing snow and wind! Sky opened from time to time to allow us to see the surroundings, but for the most part, it was classic winter conditions in the Cascades. Kept the crampons on for the steep descent down Asgard which was icy and fast. Got some great glimpses of Dragons of Eden on the way down. Impressive! We left skies at home which was just as well. Snowpack is low, no snow on the lake and who’d want to miss out on all that world-class postholing!! A welcome shit eating grin Heading out on the West Face variation Between the second and third couloirs Near the summit Crossing the icy lake (crampons advised) Gear Notes: we placed two screws, a picket and a bit rock pro at the steps. Approach Notes: postholing mania!
  9. Awesome TR and good insights. We also summited Tocllaraju in a whiteout (2006 via the W Face Direct). That route still getting climbed - I'd imagine so! Amazing mtn with great access! If you speak pretty good spanish, you can get made beta from casa de guias in Huaraz. You'll probably need to call some of the hostels (Zaraela's, Joe's etc.) to get a number or two since everyone seems to swap out their phones every few months!!
  10. stellar! another awesome cc thread in all regards! keep up the good work. [img:left]http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1162/5161540465_937630f11f_o.jpg[/img]
  11. Nice job Trevor! Glad to hear you getting out in the good weather with Don!
  12. My wife and I met Joe in Squamish many years ago while binging on IGA cookies during a Squamish summer day of rain. The next day we cragged together and since then we've stayed in touch and our friendship has grown. Beyond his amazing achievements in the mountains, Joe was humble, respectful and full of positive energy, and always good humored and stoked for a good laugh. My deepest condolences to Michelle and his family. Truly a great loss for all of us, and I will miss him.
  13. good set of routes! where is manana? want to check that out next time i'm down there. Lunatic Fringe is just so awesome! Way to get after it - really love that climb. How is the crux on the Surprise? Pretty tame or not so much?
  14. nice work out there!
  15. nice work you two! way to get after it. Looking mighty handsome there Aaron!
  16. Nice TR Jer. Was great climbing with you but even better being dorks in backcountry. Here are some photos: Bushwacking N Cascades style North Face Here's what the White Salmon is looking like Jer crossing a deep runnel low on the route Mid route - this bench provides a spot to chill (relaxed angle) but we pushed on due to the impending sun My camera has a tendency not to open Downclimbing Winnie's Slide Finishing up the last Fisher Chimney to get back on the snow
  17. Great job guys! It was great to meet you all up there! Congrats on getting all that done up there!
  18. Here's a shot of the gendarme traverse from West Mac col to Inspiration:
  19. Trip: Southern Pickets - East Ridge Inspiration and West Ridge MacMillan Date: 7/7/2010 Trip Report: Tim (therunningdog) and I headed into the Southern Pickets for some classic bushwacking fun. A alpine start out of Seattle got us to the trailhead (with permit yo!) at 3pm. Camp under point 6484 gave views of the rad high pressure that we're still loving. We forgot booze to help us sleep but Tim brought his radio so we tuned into some Cure from Victoria's classic rock station! Couldn't get the world cup news we were looking for tho! Next day took us over to the creek where we dropped sleeping gear and food and headed off from Inspiration (East Ridge). We planned to do the gendarme traverse from the West Mac col to the base of the East ridge thanks to Mario's (who was in camp!) printoff from Wayne's website. Got to the col in ok time. I hadn't been up West Mac, so I scurried up there while Tim did some classic Jstern alpine napping. Tim stoked that we're leaving camp so early! Inspiration and West Mac (and Pyramid) Kicking steps in some fine mushy snow Me on summit of West Mac Tim ready to wrestle mid way on the gendarme traverse We made it over to the E ridge proper in a few hours (yeah, we had the odd routing finding issue... who would have thunk!). Tim got the layback pitch! Fun, but definitely less fun with heavy packs. Why did we bring crampons? Tim sending the layback pretty damn efficiently I took the left crack on the upper crack pitch and without a number 3, I was running it out a wee bit. Regardless, the pitch was great fun and then we were on to the summit and towards to the raps down the West Ridge. BTW - the raps stations are way better than we anticipated. Good webbing, biners or rings!! Thanks to those who keep these in good condition! Tim getting his crack on. Tim wishing he was down in McMillan Creek instead of way up here Heading up to the summit Again, another dorky summit shot for me. Shooter McGavin? Frank the Tank? We made it back to camp just after Seth and Keith's return from their traverse of all the MacMillan spires! Nice job boys! We were stoked to get into camp and crash. Seth, Mario and Sandy (Keith just out of the shot) in camp. It was great to share stories with this fine group of alpinists! Combined, they've got a ton of Pickets experience!! On the way out we planned to "just run over and tag Davis Peak". What a shit show... temps were well into the high 70s or mid 80s and the traverse over to Davis is farther than it looked. In the end, we were cut off by a huge gully from even getting up this bastard. We got some more conditioning in I suppose... If you know the area, this photo shows the distance to Davis. First, cross those two "little humps" on the ridge ridght of point 6484, then cross plenty of ups and downs on the way over to Davis. A huge gully cuts the final ridge scramble. Is there a way to bypass this gully??? Gully cutting off ridge access to Davis (not the best photo) We didn't get much closer to Davis than this after all that work in the intense heat and crappy snow conditions Gear Notes: Used a single rope for gendarme/E ridge. Rack was doubles of smaller stuff and two of each 1 and 2 Camelot. Could have used a 3 since we did the left crack. Crampons were not needed but happily carried all the way up and down! Good food in Marblemount is open till 9pm... there is a God!!
  20. nice work tom. i remember overhearing you talk about your planned trip out to gunsight a few weeks ago at index-nice work on making it happen despite a relatively shitty start to summer! peace
  21. Heading up this way myself. Nice to run into a TR from you Runningdog!
  22. Anyone interested in heading to Index this Sunday (5/9)? I've got gear, rope, etc.. May be a bit wet, but I'm sure we can find some climbs to get on! I lead 5.10, and usually willing to get on a 5.11. Thanks, Ben
  23. I'm not a very good aid climber and need to practice more. Up for city park or others. Have gear but let's combine and make it more fun/faster. if it's dry enough, we can free climb too but i doubt it will be. it's either this or go ski i suppose. GOING SKI - IGNORE THIS POST -THX
  24. Nice work Joe and hella of a good summer for you overall! Keep it up.
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