Kevin, real close!
The thinking behind the Anchor Replacement Project, was first and foremost to show locals are willing to vest time, energy, and resources in the place - to establish 'ownership'. Second, to provide some functional working basis - along with the Pre-Open Work Sessions and Peregrine Monitoring - for a relationship with the BRSP (WSP, WDFW, and Railroad) based on more than just talk. And third, to establish in a concrete way, acknowledged by those agencies of record, that locals are the primary goto source on issue involving climbing at Beacon (by virtue of demonstrable active participation, currency of knowledge, and maintenance track record).
"Manage the climbing area ourselves" is probably a little strong given the reality that WA state law dictates the BRSP manage climbing at Beacon via the CMP. Again, the idea from day one has been to [re]establish that locals are the goto partner in that respect - and not just because we're the 'locals', but rather by virtue of actively 'earning' a place [back] at the table due to our efforts to take a broad active role in the management of climbing out there.
Revising the CMP has been stalled out due to BRSP staffing issues, but will be getting back underway and likely our new BRSP Ranger, Ben, will be tasked with some responsibility in that regard given his expressed interest in climbing. Some of the CMP groundwork has already been laid in the development and current use of a new 'Fixed Protection Application'. What has changed in this application (with regard to new routes) is that rather than an application for each piece of fixed pro - which is what the previous CMP required, the new application operates on a per route basis. You provide a digital photo with the proposed line marked up on it and a summary of it's location and likely use of fixed pro (with the idea Beacon traditions will be preserved) and then your proposal will be reviewed by the BRSP, Lisa Lantz the WSP SW Region Resource Steward (she 'owns' Beacon in every respect), and it will be peer reviewed by other Beacon climbers. After you put up the climb you backfill the application with exactly what fixed pro went in if any (I still have to backfill an application for what we ended up actually doing on the recent 'Wind Walker' maintenance with Mark). So far only the first two review steps are in place while the CMP is in limbo and until a Climbers' Advisory Board can be reconstituted and reconvened - the point of all my efforts has been to insure Beacon Locals have a prominent place at that particular table when the time comes.
To-date, I (with the 'Menopause' line above 'Rythmn Method') and Shane (with 'Head Case', 'Siege Tactics', and a couple of other great NW Face lines) have both been through the application process and it's painless, relatively quick, and not an obstacle in any way to getting things done. Any 'new' activity - routes or individual pieces of fixed pro - need to be reviewd by Lisa Lantz, whereas replacement-only efforts of limit scope can be approved by the BRSP. A 'big' replacement program of protection bolts would require a serious sitdown with Erik and the BRSP staff and would likely have to be run by Lisa as well, but could probably be done if folks got organized and worked with the process.
So on 'Second Wind', I'd say if you're serious, then you should fill out an application stating your proposal is for replacement-only of existing bolts on the climb, which I suspect Erik would approve almost as soon as he gets it. As Bill said, I'd be willing to help out and would also be happy to donate SS bolts and hangers to the effort. I am pretty good at getting the old bolts out and camo'ing holes if any are left behind. And seeing all the old South Face column routes back in action has been a big goal of what work I have done so I'm really psyched to see you guys getting after them all week in, week out - now that's the damn spirit!!!
Or one could just go do it and not tell anyone. Since the "people in charge" dont climb no one would know.
So Bill never answered my question. He stated "climbers" and the BRSP got together and agreed on a CMP.
Which climbers is he referring too?
