kevbone

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He makes it look so easy. [video:youtube]

Not me.....saw it last night and thought is was very entertaining. Hopefully we will see at least 3 or 4 more fun Star Trek movies. Thought they did a good job casting everyone.

Downsize? Does that mean he will go from 10,000 movies to 5,000 movies?

Question is......is torture illegal? yes or no. Is waterboarding illegal? Yes or no.

Great song....but what is up with the hair?

Now if we can only get Beacon to adhere to the same closure policies, we would be in buisness.....

All great songs........

Serious about what?

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Ya think? I think they are pretty good.

What a great song....... [video:youtube]

Five of us were climbing Easter Island in the Creek in two parties. I had the first lead. I placed a gear anchor. A three piece anchor. All cams in perfect cracks. As I left the anchor first I pulled out all three pieces (not at the same time and this was NOT a hanging belay) to make sure non of them were stuck, because one of the pieces was a tight fit. The last person up could not get out the tight fit gold Camelot. On the way down all five of us tried to get it out….I pride myself on being able to get out cams when no one else can. It was not coming out. The owner of the came wanted it replaced. Nobody bucked up right away so eyes fell on me because I placed it. I told them I took it out easily when I left the anchor and since all five people climbed over the anchor we all are liable. We all eventually pitched in the money to buy him a new cam but it took about a month and he was rather pissy…… Good or bad?

It is rated 11.a and he is calling it "just for kicks".

How at the bolts any different than the thousands of feet of fixed line?

"I am a bastard and cant clean or find my own piece of rock so I rape and plunder others piece of rock but only after they have done all the work"?

so what kind of snowmobile do u have? :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:

Stealing obvious new routes is not petty IMO.

I don’t know what “designer crag” means…… I mostly agree with all your points B……but don’t see how any of it is relevant to Martins route getting pulled out from underneath him and his father. This route will go in the upper 10’s if not harder. No newbie will be getting on it, or would know how to set up a route like this. It is not obvious IMO. These bolters know what they were doing because they skipped the last couple of bolts and made it so you have to finish on route 66, knowing that is would be a total squeeze job if they added bolts to the top. Just because Ozone is popular doesn’t mean we as climbers get to step on each other. IMO.

It’s about principal and respect. Respect those who came before you.

I see one maybe two bolts in the pic provided. How is that grid bolting?

To me, setting route is like a piece of art work. It’s like painting a picture on a huge canvas. You get to choose what colors you want and where to put those colors. What size brushes you want to use…….you clean off the canvas so you can see it, then you start painting. If I was to clean a huge canvas and get is ready to start my art work, then to find out in the middle of the night that another rouge painter painted his own art work on this canvas I might be a little upset. I can only assume that Martins dad would have used different colors (bolts) in different areas. In other words he might have bolted in completely different. Not that his way was better or worse…..just different. Now he will never get that chance unless he decides to chop this route….which is not in his nature, but is should be. Like I said…..I am not in favor of any chopping usually….but if there ever was an instance……this would be it. I would love to have the bolting party weigh in to explain yourselves.

How do you think King Tut feels when you rape his tomb? Just asking.......

How so? Route stealing is not just for sport climbing. You would outraged if you spent all that time cleaning Lost warriors just to find someone (who knew you were cleaning it) else had climbed it before you. Or added bolts you would not have added. Point is.....it is a disrespect for our fellow climbers.

Problem is Brian. I don’t believe this individual (s) to be yahoo’s. They clearly know what they were doing (other than not following the “grail”).. I expect what all crags expect. Common courtesy. Respect those who came before you. Not liking ones route and bitching about it is one thing. But to steal a line that someone else worked multiple days on cleaning is utter bullshit.