JohnHemlock

Not to hijack a thread but does anyone have any feedback on how Degres with Intuition liners might work in the Himalaya or on Denali? I have a friend who is pondering a similar purchase but is thinking about adding some altitude to the mix Undermind - Everyone I know seems to love the boot.

I've been looking for some K2 Shuksans on sale for the same purpose and decided to shorten up (tele in 188s) for the reasons given in this thread. I weigh 225 so need something a bit wider in the waist and shovel at about 174.

Nov 2001 Climbing has a good article about Dave Pagel's experience climbing the Normal Route on Nelion, if you have access to someone's old mag pile.

I sent you a PM but after re-reading your post I think the Glacier might be a bit heavy for what you want. Either the Salomons or Montrail Lotus would be a good bet. None of them are going to be particularly warm if you're on snow all day.

Thanks! I have volume 1 and have been leafing through it for likely candidates. I live in Colorado and have never made the Cascades a high priority, as there's been plenty to do within a day's drive of here. Not interested in low angle snow slogs or crowded routes and I don't mind a multi-day approach.

Hi, I'm junking my job for a year or two to climb and would like to spend May in the NW. I haven't spent any time climbing in the Cascades so was looking for recommendations on routes. I'm fairly comfortable with long, exposed moderate stuff, climbing alpine and water ice 3/4, etc. Will be by myself but will probably try to pick up a partner here and there. I've got WFR certification and have been climbing for 10 years if anyone is interested in hooking up.

I have the Nuptse / Sabretooth combo and they work fine. The crampons tend to flex quite a bit (or so people who watch me climb say) but they stay on the boot. I climbed a 1000 foot mixed ridge in the Alps followed by 5 or 6 pitches of WI 3 or 4 and the combo worked great. It takes a bit of fiddling to get them dialed in correctly but I can go all day without an adjustment.

I am using the standard lace-ups but will look at a moldable liner. I took the insole out completely yesterday, which seemed to help somewhat. I'm usually okay with DIY but am somewhat afraid about trying to reshape the shell myself. Finesse work is not my strong suit! I am hoping to use these boots to ski to 7000 meters next summer so perhaps a thinner, more shaped liner boot is the answer.

I have had a pair of Garmont Veloce telemark boots for 2 years. My right foot is slightly wider than the left and this causes some serious discomfort for the first 2 hours of any ski day. I thought the liner would eventually pack out and I'd be fine but after probably 60 days in the boots the problem is still around. Can shells be stretched along the side of the forefoot? I can't buy a bigger shell because I am already using their biggest boot. Thanks!

I like my jacket's design and warmth. One caveat - the measurements I provided them allowed for an extra 2 inches of length to accomodate reaching while ice climbing. The jacket actually came shorter than I asked and barely hits my waist. Fairly worthless for ice but still okay for other purposes.

I like the Wild Things Belay and the Patagonia DAS, and probably favor the Belay. Both are quite warm and I don't think I've ever worn one while on the move. I usually pull it out for belays and bivys. For a good "on the go" jacket that is surprisingly warm, I like the Wild Things EP.

The iRock is nice and cheap but my iRock headphone jack took a crap after about 4 months. On the other hand, my ipod has been going strong for a year and a half. You get what you pay for.

I agree. I do everything in cheap lightweight long johns and shoeller pants. I carry precip pants if it gets wet outside. Maybe you could thicken up the long johns a bit for really cold weather.

Friend of mine had one for a couple of years that worked great for spring and fall, right up until last month when he finally decided to wash it and melted the shell in the dryer on the "high temp" setting.

Snodger - now I understand. I was visualizing trying to get a high piece off the belay but what you did makes sense. I agree that clipping into your upper tool while rigging a belay doesn't feel as good as a screw but if it's well-stuck it's pretty bomber.