DavidHiers

That'd up the pucker factor!

Hi, This topic came up in a recent conversation, so I thought that I'd rattle the cage of the assembled brain trust... Is any one aware of a climber being injured when a non-climber tampered with their gear? I'm thinking of places like Rocky Butte and Broughton Bluff that have walkup trails that provide easy access to anchors. All those bright shiny things might tempt some schmoe that's watched too many Jackass episodes. I can't find any mention of this kind of injury in the accident journal, so it seems to be somewhat rare. Thanks, David

In general, you'll be in good shape. The mazamas have about 20 climbs scheduled for May, which is a pretty good indication that conditions in most Mays are expected to be fair. This spring is running a bit late and cold, of course.

Its a matter of perspective, of course, but I don't jettison the extra weight on training days. If my knees are going to blow on a heavy descent I'd rather them blow on some lame hike than on a climb. The heavy weight forces you to control your descent speed and gait to avoid injury, which really guns the lower quads.

Don't forget the recovery meal after training. Increase your retained sugar with the carbs, and rebuild the dogs with protein. This web site might be of interest... http://chppm-www.apgea.army.mil/dhpw/Wellness/PPNC/PM_MOD6.pdf

Here's a few that you might like: http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/forecast/MapClick.php?site=pqr&textField1=45.30&textField2=-121.79&zone=1 http://aviationweather.gov/products/nws/fdwinds/dynamic/sfo_fd1.shtml http://ww2010.atmos.uiuc.edu/(Gh)/home.rxml http://www.climbingweather.com/ http://www.mountainweather.com/default.htm http://wrcc.dri.edu/ http://www.snow-forecast.com/

Hi, What's a good guide book for the Tieton River area? The Ford/Yoder book looks good, and the old Christensen book just can't be worth 75 clams... Thanks, David

I like my silent partner well enough, but I've never tried the others.

You're going to put all those clothes on eventually. I typically sleep in everything I carry, except for the day's wet socks. Those dry in my shirt. Metabolism differ, so YMMV.

Hey, Anyone make it up Hood this weekend? I wussed out on the warm temps that were forecast for the nights....

sigh.....

Completely cool!

Old Chute is the boot path now; most people don't rope up for it. The gates are a bit technical now. Two tools are nice for about 20'. Most will want to rope up for it, but its a bit of a chore to protect. YMMV...

Nope, but don't try to poach 'em! I was doing stairs in my Las Vegas hotel for about 12 minutes before security flushed me out. Dang cameras are everywhere... The bridges, max stops, and some busy roads in portland have some pedestrian stairs to either walk along the road or cross it. Maybe the couve has 'em as well.

Hi, I'm looking for some rock/mountain climbing partners. I'm a middling kind of climber, with some decent experience and much to learn. I'm willing to teach what I know and learn all I can. About me: 45 y/o male Aloha, OR Pretty fit, workout almost every day Gobs 'o Gear Lead 5.6 trad Good first aid tng 9-5/M-F working drone Big on self-rescue practice Interests: All the routes on Mt. Hood Anything in the North Cascades Mt. Rainier Thinking about a big wall Trying ice soon Smith Rock, Red Rock, etc... Multipitch trad routes If your interested, please PM me. Maybe we can rope up and do some easy stuff to see how we get along. Thanks, David

Good reading, see page 24. http://www.mammut.ch/mammut/uploadedFiles/Mammut_seilfibel_E_050722.pdf

I usually clip my axe's prucell prusik to my harness. It adjusts all the way from cane to traction position. I figure that if I fall once, I'll probably fall again; the axe might come in handy. Sometimes I unclip and girth the prusik to my wrist, its pretty situational.

Like it takes a grad student to proclaim, "It's quite easy for something to get knotted." http://news.yahoo.com/s/livescience/20071004/sc_livescience/thescienceofknotsunraveled

Does anyone climb on the equalette anchor described in Long's anchor book (2e)? Its an interesting little doo-dad...

Not quite sure where blueberry is, but I'm up for trying to spaz my way up random stuff....

What? You were climbing hurt? Never could have guessed... Anyone headed out to RB tommorow?

Talk about the classic tradeoff! A longer rope buys you more time to drop into self-arrest, yet more time for the fallen party to build up speed. Sigh....

We very much agree with Vedder, Vermilyea and you! The Al is covered with an oxide film, and reacts in a cathode/anode electrolysis reaction to produce other junk.

During the week, I'm all over the stairmill, 5lb ankle weights, 50-100 lbs in the pack. Other than that, I climb every chance I get. No matter what you can do now, bump the speed, weight, or distance by about 5-10% per week until you plateau. Hold what you've for a while, then bump something. I run a bit for cross-training and bouncing the innards around a bit. You perform as you train, so training must mimic the performance activity as closely as possible.

Good info, thanks!