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OlegV

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Posts posted by OlegV

    Cassin Ridge 2006

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    Oleg, look me up. I live a mile away from Rocky Butte. NOLSe will get a date set, you can meet me here, and we'll go scrape up some rock. Maybe we can rope Donn into that, eh?

     

    Chad, I didn't realize you live that close to rock! thumbs_up.gif How many potential lines are up there?

    Cassin Ridge 2006

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    i't trade you - if you go cragging w/ me this weekend, i'll let you lead all the hard ice pitches on denali smile.gif

     

    got something rolling this weekend - may get cancelled because of weather. Love to do Beackon Rock some day. Got to climb it in crampons though

    grin.gif

    [TR] North Ingalls Peak- East Ridge 8/13/2005

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    Oleg, the South Face looks really easy - I think its 5.4 or something? No problem at all.

     

    You could also ascend the East Peak from the saddle between the North and East Peaks (start of the East Ridge route). The route looks like its maybe 2-3 pitches and very straightforward with an easy rap back to the notch. I would caution though against ascending that gully with your kid unless there are no parties ahead of you because of rockfall hazard.

     

    Thanks!

    [TR] Mt. Stuart- NR and upper NE Face combo 8/13/2005

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    Climb: Mt. Stuart-NR and upper NE Face combo

     

    Date of Climb: 8/13/2005

     

    Trip Report:

    Just like to many others, the label “classic climb” is a cause of the great inspiration for me and, often is a fair judgment of my personal achievements in climbing. After my last trip to Boston Basin, and encountering the whole bunch of crappy climbing, I finally decide not to fuck around with poor rock, and get on some high quality granite of Stuart. Turns out, Pete wanted to do the North Ridge for a long time, and was happy to join me. The plan was to climb the upper ridge, bivy below Gendarme and complete the route via whatever variation we feel like at this point.

     

    We leave Portland Saturday morning, hit the trailhead around 10 am and see our beautiful objective within 2 hours. View from the Ingalls Lake:

    6323Stuart-panorama-med.jpg

     

    From the lake - another two hours of scree/wet glacier hiking and scrambling, and we are at the base of the upper ridge. The welcoming “fuck-you” sign somewhere low on the ridge:

    6323NR-Stuart-Fuckyou-med.jpg

     

    At this point, the climbing becomes sweet as a fairytale. I can’t stop thinking that the route is architecturally constructed - perfect holds, awesome views and right exposure.

    6323NR-Stuart-gap-med.jpg

     

    We simul-climb moving very efficiently, and soon reach a beautiful crack. Pete leading the crack:

    6323NR-Stuart-crack1-med.jpg6323NR-Stuart-crack2-med.jpg

     

    Right before the sunset we pass two bivy sites and decide to climb farther up - past a knife ridge - to the base of Gendarme. Surprised by no suitable platform at the base of Gendarme, we downclimb back to the bivy sites and spend a chilly night at he ledges. Without sleeping bags, the night seemed long and cold. I count falling stars - four or five. We shiver wanting the night to be over. Finally, the stars slowly fade the first light strikes the sky:

    6323NR-Stuart-bivy1-med.jpg

     

    Next morning, we decide to skip Gendarme and try the NE face variation - left of Gendarme .The NE Face route starts low down on the east face of the NR where the bottom of the NR starts. The route skirts left the gendarme for 500' exactly as we did. Climbing without beta seems appealing to us. Traverse towards the NE face:

    6323NR-Stuart-NEtraverse2-med.jpg

     

    We encounter a bunch of loose untouched rock covered with moss and dirt, but get through with no problems. Then comes some awesome 5.7-5.8 climbing. Pete following the best pitch of the day:

    6323NR-Stuart-sweetpitch-med.jpg

     

    Feeling close victory, we hit the smooth face with a visible crack. Pete is enthusiastic about getting through this slab:

    6323NR-Stuart-offwidthcrack2-med.jpg

     

    Unfortunately, a perfect crack turns into off-width crack and climbing stops. Our only option is is to go around - on snow (see it on the right of the slab). Pete does one foot postholing - one foot on rock combo lead (wearing rock shoes), I follow fully enjoying his boot tracks.

     

    From this tough spot, only minutes separate us from to the summit. On the way up we see a guy

    fast-soloing the NR and then Gendarme. Every 5 minutes he screams on the top of his lung “somebody is going to die!!!”. Is it a death wish to the others or hysteria. I am not sure.

     

     

     

    Gear Notes:

    Crampons, ice axe, rope, medium rock rack.

     

    Approach Notes:

    Ingalls lake,

    NR of Stuart - crampons/axe?

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    Wonder if somebody could give me some beta on the state of Stuart Glacier.

    Approaching the NR from the Goat Pass, are crampons and ice axes needed on glacier crossing and getting thru the couloir? I heard the glacier is mostly flat at this section.

    Thanks

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