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OlegV

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Posts posted by OlegV

  1. OK, I injured myself cry.gif. After about 3-week break in trail running, I started too hard, and as a result, my knee isn’t cooperating with me any more. After about 30 min of running, my knee experiences sharp pain, primarily on decline. The pain is similar to the IT-band syndrome, but I suspect it has different origin. I would describe it as very localized sharp sensation in the lower outer part of the kneecap. If I continue exercise, pain irradiates in the lower outer part of my leg - all the way down to my ankle. Curiously, when I hike up or down or ski, there is no pain. It is somehow coupled to pounding on a trail. I tried to take an active break for a couple of weeks, and than returned to running, so did my pain! Anybody? Thanks!

  2. the russians are a savage race, commendable mostly for their drinking prowess and resultant stupor-induced capacity for subsisting on mere misery - my liver'd be in much better shape i'm sure were i more slavic in my descent - i have to get by on my thoroughly corrupted, junk-pool-genes and wistfully contemplate the mysteries of Being a Thoroughbred Hardman.

    Best prose I've read all week. bigdrink.gifbigdrink.gif

     

    Dostoevski would be proud of you, Eric! thumbs_up.gif

  3. Well, is there a tent out there, which would work both on the West butt and let's say on speedy ascent of one of the Denali ridges? Weight vs Vollume. Too small of the tent would drive you crazy during the long hours in the base camp. Lets say I-tent, as an example (thanks griz for betta). Wouldn't it feel claustraphobic having spen weeks in it?

     

    I am still toying around with the idea of a double sl. bag. Got to try this system on Rainier this winter, maybe just slepping outside the tent.

  4. He's russian? I would like to adjust my opinion. Wool pants, sweater and a blankey are fine. No worse than a typical russian winter.

     

    grin.gif Couple of winters ago, I took a bottle of Russian conyak to the summit of Mt. Washington, NH - it froze on me, I had to melt it under my underware. For this matter, 100% technical aviation-proof alhohol works better mushsmile.gif

  5. Climb: Hood-North Face

     

    Date of Climb: 11/17/2005

     

    Trip Report:

    Four of us, Chad, Rodney, Dave and I climbed the North Face of Hood this Thursday. We left the TJ trailhead at 1:30 am under warm, clear sky. It felt too warm and we all had concerns about the conditions on the face. At dawn we reach the base of the NF and stare in anticipation through the gullies. Neither the right nor the left gully look promising: plenty of thin ice and uncovered rock. After the brief moment of hesitation, we decide go for it and try the left gully. The entry doesn’t seem like an easy job: the base of the gully is badly crevassed and the ice is too thin to hold an ice screw. Fortunately, we spot a narrow strip of reasonably-looking water ice on the left of the main gully (most-left gully on the picture). The ice is somewhat soft and milky with the underlying layer of snow. We meticulously climb 2 pitches of WI3-4 before joining the main gully. From this point we enter the big stretch of the featureless snow slope of 50-60 degree. After climbing ~1500 vertical feet, our group splits in half, Rodney and Chad decide to explore the main gully and climb through the remaining ice, while Dave and I walk the ascent line to the left of the gully directly towards the North flank of the Cooper Spur rock. While Chad and Rodney encounter a lot of thin rotten ice, we go through some steep knee-deep snow and mixed terrains. At a time, it felt like the entire slope was about to collapse. At 3:15 pm, thoroughly exhausted and dehydrated we finally reach the human-free summit and become our descent of the south side. Interestingly enough, we had to set up a V-thread anchor at the Pearly Gates to get down through the steep vertical ice step. For some unknown reason, we were the only people on the mountain that day - what a beautiful sunset we saw! We’ll post more pictures soon!

     

    6323Hood_NF2-med.JPG6323Hood_NF_OlegIcelead-med.JPG6323Hood_NF_left_gully-med.JPG6323Hood_NF_Rodney-med.JPG6323Hood_NF_OlegDavid-med.JPG

     

    Gear Notes:

    12 screws

    2 ice tools

    2 pickets (didn't use)

     

     

    Approach Notes:

    TJ trail

  6. Need your advice yoda.gif. Trying to save some weight and money on these expensive items. I need a tent light and tough enough for cold, windy technical routes. Definitely, can't pay $600.

     

    I got 0F down bag. One option to get the second down bag, another option to go with -40F and pay $0.5K.

     

    Thanks!

  7. Not much rock gear is needed- Most tech climbing takes screws,

     

    That's what I thought - the Cassin is mostly ice and snow route. I am debating whether to go in May or in June. June may have better weather, May is less ice.

  8. I'm going to Peru first to cut my teeth on other-than-Cascadian turf before taking a hack at that one. You're welcome to come along

    ???

    6323Siula_Grande.jpg

     

    Thanks Chad, when are you going to Peru? December is the best time, I heard. Do you have a partner? fruit.giffruit.giffruit.gif

  9. Here again, I am in brief poetic mood. Last Saturday Eric, Dan and I climbed the Beacon Rock. I was a first timer there. Now I see why people come back there over and over again. No questions, Beacon has the best rock around. Up there, sitting at the ledge and gazing at the Columbia River, time and the world itself are brought to a halt. And you just want to stay There forever...

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